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Need Bearing Help

Got my 2 shafts on my desk. Called a place and gave them the #'s on the bearings. The guy on the phone said these are special. He told me he doesnt think he can help me. ??????? The numbers after 6206 is what confused him ,,,and he is a bearing dealer. Can someone clarify what I should buy. I planned on getting this back together soon so I could try it out before coming to Hawk Fest.
 
Ask for a "6206-2RS" or whatever good quality "6206" that comes with 2 rubber seals and you're good to go.

Must be a new guy because it can't be more standard than that !!!
 
I worked in the bearing industry for 5 years. The 6206 is a good part number. You can buy them online (Amazon even sells them) or a reputable bearing house ought to have them. Depending on your location, try Motion Industries, BC Bearings, US Bearings, Applied Industrial Technologies or Kaman, to name the majors. You probably also have a few locals.

Some 6200 series bearings are available with both metric and inch dimensional bores- metric is standard- so double check your shaft but it's probably metric. You will need to specify the nomenclature for whether it is open, shielded or sealed. Open means you can see the bearings inside, shielded means the bearings are covered by a metal shield but that water and contaminants can get in, and sealed means the bearings are covered by a rubber seal that keeps all contaminants out and the grease in. So if it's open, it's just a 6206. If it's shielded, it's a 6206 2Z and if it's sealed it's a 6206 2RS.

FYI- some manufacturers like MRC and FAG drop the 6 and just call this bearing a 206.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I called Motion Industries first. The guy shoed me away and these were " special ". I called another local co and he said come on in. This thing has been sitting in my garage to long. It needs to be in the snow. Hopefully I can find someone to press them on tomorrow and get wrenching again.
 
beeline, Just take the bearing and lay it on a 100w drop light bulb for about 20 min (10 min on one side , flip 10 min on the other). It will slide right on. the bulb is rounded and it will only touch the inner race. It won't hurt the seals and will expand the race enough so you don't have to press it on. Trick i learned at ski-doo tech school.
 
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Oh, and make sure you move fast, and wear gloves. The bearing gets hot, and the shaft sucks the heat out of the bearing quick, so you have to move fast.
 
Oh, and make sure you move fast, and wear gloves. The bearing gets hot, and the shaft sucks the heat out of the bearing quick, so you have to move fast.

Thats how I used to assemble bike motors, I would also freeze the other side.. in this case the shaft..also how my hawk was assembled.. piece of cake..
 
Do you have a 3-jaw puller? heat the inner race with a propane torch and knock it off with a hammer and a big crescent wrench, put the wrench over the bearing and hit the wrench with a hammer, if you don't have a puller. Just be careful when heating the race that you don't heat the shaft too much, if the shaft expands with the bearing you defeat the purpose
 
If you use heat to get the old bearing off, make sure you put the shaft in the freezer ( like offroad suggested ) before you try to put the new bearing on.
 
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