C
CoyoteGirl
Well-known member
Thank you to all my sponsors for helping me build this little monster!
And thanks to Brent for all his help and support! x 2
Beautifying:
**Custom wrap by ArcticFx Graphics www.arcticfxgraphics.com Technically, it’s only partially custom. I found one of their wraps that I liked the lines, and asked for my own color configuration.
I went with AFX for a few different reasons. One is the durability of their products, they use a thick vinyl. 2 years ago I had an under the hood fire with flames coming out of the hood vents and NO damage to the graphics. I also tend to get a little close to trees and have yet to have anything more than a light scratch show up. And last but not least you can’t beat the service received from AFX
**Cut down the stock windshield and painted it flat black.
- Front Suspension:
newly designed A-arms and spindles a little later in the season.
**Exit shocks by ZBroz Racing. www.zbrozracing.com With the Walker Evans I would feel every little bump, jerk and jar. These shocks have taken all that away. I feel like there is more control on one ski.
- Rear Suspension:
I went with Timbersled as I had a chance to try one on Brent’s Supercharged Nytro. It held the front end down, but did not limit the nimbleness needed to carve with ease. It limits the transfer back, which seems to be the Dragon stock suspension’s worst flaw. With the stock suspension I could count on bottoming out when carving back up hill most of the time and on with the Mountain Tamer, this is now gone. The suspension is easy to manipulate with small shifts of your weight. On bumpy trails and jumping I can now feel a big difference in how it handles the initial hit (no longer feels like a HIT) and the landing. I now land straighter, and when I do happen to land crooked it is absorbed and easily straightened.
**156 Camo Extreme 156x2.5” - I’ve had the Camo Extreme track before and loved the grab and hook up of it. Upon installation of this track last spring I noticed my little 700 became a tractor…it just keeps crawling along.
**Avid Drivers
**Anti Stab kit
**Skins shock covers on the Fox Floats
- Chassis:
**Ballistic Bars & Bumpers front bumper - Roger and Rich built this for me. I’ve put it to lots of little tests (read little trees) without any damage.
**VE Boondock Bumper Kit www.vanamburgent.com/ http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231679
VE builds top notch products. Impressed with how must stronger/ rigid this has made my sled. The stock steel bars were warped, and I could feel so much flex under my feet. With the VE Boondock, flex is a thing of the past. Wide all the way back, no slipping off the edge! Reinforced tunnel supports and a kicked up back bumper for when you are dug down to China. Great traction, wide openings for snow to go through and it looks BADASS!
**WRP Mountain Assault Seat www.wr-products.com - The stock seat is slippery, but not the WRP! I like the looks of the WRP, and the fact that you can add 2” for us taller peeps. It’s less squishy and the material is grippy-er. Very nice for that tiring trail ride back to the trailer. I like to carve straddled and find that gripping the seat with my inner thighs can help maneuver the sled and even more-so now with the extra height.
**LED Brake light from www.ftxmotorsports.com - Brighter. Nice and clean looking back there!
- Steering:
**Fastrax Motorsports billet button control www.ftxmotorsports.com - The stock brake assembly is HUGE and I found myself with bruises on my hand after going over the handlebars. I realize the fix for this is not going over the handlebars, but that seems to be a fix I can not master. The headlight switch is in a vulnerable spot to get broken leaving a big hole for water to get into and cause wires to short out and the reverse button is in an easy to hit spot.
**The billet control panel is much smaller, hopefully alleviating some bruises.
Reverse button is recessed a little making it harder to bump on accident. And they have an extra button for your nitrous OR a fun little horn.
**Wilwood master cylinder - The stock brake lever is plastic and with to much pressure easily broken. Stock design allows the build up of ice causing brake friction. The Wilwood master cylinder has a great, easy, less likely to be manhandled and broken parking brake mechanism.
**Fastrax Motorsports billet throttle block www.ftxmotorsports.com - Stock throttle blocks are just big, bulky things. I like the smaller FTX billet block, cleans up the handlebars.
**Fly Racing Adjustable Risers http://www.flyracing.com/ - Adjustable! If you aren’t sure of your correct height, these bad boys are for you!
**Fly Racing SnoX Carbon Fiber Aero Taper Bars http://www.flyracing.com/ - Lighter than stock. The carbon fiber helps retain some heat that the usual aluminum bars lose.
**Ski-Doo Cork part # 506152360 - Ski-Doo came out with a cork wrap for their aluminum bars to help with the heat loss. (YAY!)
**SPI high output heaters
**ODI grips - These bad boys are about the grippiest things out there!
**Pro-Design Tether - Tethers offered by Polaris are the suction cup kind and seem to fail often.
**RSI extended brake cable
**Rotated my mountain bar down as it seems to be only used to rock the sled when stuck. This freed up space over the handlebars allowing me to be more rider forward, feeling more aggressive and attack oriented.
- Venting:
2Cool provides a great product. If you are one of those riders like me that is on your side a lot they offer an extra frame for your vent to give it a bit more support.
**Shock well vent by 2Cool AirVents
**Dash vent by 2Cool AirVents
- Clutching:
- Engine:
**Fastrax Billet Chaincase cover. www.ftxmotorsports.com - I can melt anything under the hood and didn’t want to chance warping the stock Polaris plastic cover.
- Extras:
**Skins Powder Pak waterproof tunnel bag http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/
on Brent borrowing her! You wanna start a 
? 
