My Greazy Project Ultra RMK
- Thread starter Fosgate
- Start date
Put a whopping 16 miles on this winter due to lack of snow. Couple things to do over the summer. Change brake lines as the brakes don't completely grab until the handle is nearly to the bar. Next pull the steering. I think something is bent at the connecting post base or the control arm that runs from the base to the front control arms. From whatever caused that initial damage to the front I'm sure. Last is decide if I want to track down a Rocky Mountain King decal for the back tunnel or stick something else on it or leave it plain. ( I now have more into this than the white Turbo Pro Ride I rencently picked up.)
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Got number one stripped down again. Going through in more detail. Finding stuff like zip ties holding on what appears after removal, to be aquarium tubing, not fuel line. Always found the chaincase confusing figuring the online microfiche was not right. Pulled the chaincase to replace bearings only to discover an exploded bearing and toothed sprocket spacer. Nice to have ultra#2 next to it that is much cleaner to see how things are supposed to be. That toothed sprocket spacer was not in #2 and looked like it was put in a pinch. Then it hit me. I’ve seen that same toothed spacer in a 96 Arctic Cat ZRT that I worked on back in maybe 97. Anyway. Went yanking the front shocks that came off a 22 pro Rmk at 16 eye to eye back to the stock shock profile and springs. Freshening up the front bushings only to snap off both rear trailing arm bolts. Going to try to weld the heads back on and work them out. Swapped the steering post and bell. New control arms are going in to hopefully resolve the steering issue.
List of stuff to do:
Chaincase: new bearings, seals and chain, cover
Recoil assy: replace rope, spring & dogs kit, new anodized guides, handle
Exhaust: refinish the pipes like I wanted to the first time
Clutching: service clutches and setup springs, weights for 6k+ ele, new Wahl Racing Helix setup according to SLP pipe chart.
Carbs: setup carbs to SLP pipe chart 3-6000 elevation -20f temp, install new brass, fuel lines, brass t connectors, air lines. Install VForce reeds
Airbox: install Holtzman Tempaflo with brass fittings, frogskinz instead of foam at openings.
Ignition rack: replace coils w new, rebuild fuel pump.
Oil system: reinstall, running premix sucks maintaining cans for AV, Premix and premium. Get it down to just AV and premium.
Brakes: Swap with new brake line. Hopefully gets rid of spongy feeling. If not need new resevoir assy. Replace busted taillight relay
Seat: ordered the proper seat and cover. Current one is a 29 in tank to lumbar seam for SKS.
Headlight pod: new hardware for the headlight assy due to corrosion on current.
Handlebar wiring: shorten and rout wiring properly, install new throttle cables (current missing oil cable):
Polish: clutch cover, alu belly pan belt, skid rails
Paint: head covers
Front suspension: new front ski stops, control arms, shocks, springs, ski rubbers, bushings.
I think that’s about it.
List of stuff to do:
Chaincase: new bearings, seals and chain, cover
Recoil assy: replace rope, spring & dogs kit, new anodized guides, handle
Exhaust: refinish the pipes like I wanted to the first time
Clutching: service clutches and setup springs, weights for 6k+ ele, new Wahl Racing Helix setup according to SLP pipe chart.
Carbs: setup carbs to SLP pipe chart 3-6000 elevation -20f temp, install new brass, fuel lines, brass t connectors, air lines. Install VForce reeds
Airbox: install Holtzman Tempaflo with brass fittings, frogskinz instead of foam at openings.
Ignition rack: replace coils w new, rebuild fuel pump.
Oil system: reinstall, running premix sucks maintaining cans for AV, Premix and premium. Get it down to just AV and premium.
Brakes: Swap with new brake line. Hopefully gets rid of spongy feeling. If not need new resevoir assy. Replace busted taillight relay
Seat: ordered the proper seat and cover. Current one is a 29 in tank to lumbar seam for SKS.
Headlight pod: new hardware for the headlight assy due to corrosion on current.
Handlebar wiring: shorten and rout wiring properly, install new throttle cables (current missing oil cable):
Polish: clutch cover, alu belly pan belt, skid rails
Paint: head covers
Front suspension: new front ski stops, control arms, shocks, springs, ski rubbers, bushings.
I think that’s about it.
Adjusted the air screws on both machines. #2 was set right or close to it with 1/2 turn. Original greazy triple was set to 2 turns out? Surprised it didn’t burn down in the time I had it. Maybe that’s why compression was 105/118/128. Course I rejetted the mains as soon as I got it home and richened the premix. Maybe that kept it from detonating earlier.
Got new fuel lines (set in them seemed like thin aquarium tubing held on with zip ties), air lines, cylinder head bolts. Lost a needle clip which should be arriving today. Replaced the jackshaft and Chaincase bearings and chaincase seal, installed a longer stainless chain tensioner bolt.
Found the wire severed to the water temp sensors that I runs into the heads. Should be getting that this week. Ordered an oil check valve/ filter that runs between the oil tank and oil pump.
Got one bolt out of the left side which is the one I was concerned about since I could not find a replacement foot rest assy. The right side is broke off too far up to get anything on it. With how hard the left side was to get out even after welding a nut then snapped off so welded a washer and then a nut to it and used a lot of penetrating oil to get it out. We decided to save the aggravation of trying an easy out on the other side since I had the $30 right side foot rest at home. Got the rivets drilled out for that and going to put the replacement in today or tomorrow.
Clutches: scored 2 p-85 clutches from 2020 axis chassis sleds from a co worker. $400 for the pair, one with 600 trail miles and the other with 0 miles. Going to disassemble and swap springs and weights over. Guy said he thinks he’s got a secondary also. I don’t think I want to mess with setting up a secondary just yet and if I did I’d probably look for maybe a car with an encapsulated roller. Loved one I had from Hi-Tech Performance on an 01 Mtn cat 800. Having belt deflection set automatically would be cool along with wicked fast back-shifting.
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Got new fuel lines (set in them seemed like thin aquarium tubing held on with zip ties), air lines, cylinder head bolts. Lost a needle clip which should be arriving today. Replaced the jackshaft and Chaincase bearings and chaincase seal, installed a longer stainless chain tensioner bolt.
Found the wire severed to the water temp sensors that I runs into the heads. Should be getting that this week. Ordered an oil check valve/ filter that runs between the oil tank and oil pump.
Got one bolt out of the left side which is the one I was concerned about since I could not find a replacement foot rest assy. The right side is broke off too far up to get anything on it. With how hard the left side was to get out even after welding a nut then snapped off so welded a washer and then a nut to it and used a lot of penetrating oil to get it out. We decided to save the aggravation of trying an easy out on the other side since I had the $30 right side foot rest at home. Got the rivets drilled out for that and going to put the replacement in today or tomorrow.
Clutches: scored 2 p-85 clutches from 2020 axis chassis sleds from a co worker. $400 for the pair, one with 600 trail miles and the other with 0 miles. Going to disassemble and swap springs and weights over. Guy said he thinks he’s got a secondary also. I don’t think I want to mess with setting up a secondary just yet and if I did I’d probably look for maybe a car with an encapsulated roller. Loved one I had from Hi-Tech Performance on an 01 Mtn cat 800. Having belt deflection set automatically would be cool along with wicked fast back-shifting.
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Isn’t the clutch taper different?Adjusted the air screws on both machines. #2 was set right or close to it with 1/2 turn. Original greazy triple was set to 2 turns out? Surprised it didn’t burn down in the time I had it. Maybe that’s why compression was 105/118/128. Course I rejetted the mains as soon as I got it home and richened the premix. Maybe that kept it from detonating earlier.
Got new fuel lines (set in them seemed like thin aquarium tubing held on with zip ties), air lines, cylinder head bolts. Lost a needle clip which should be arriving today. Replaced the jackshaft and Chaincase bearings and chaincase seal, installed a longer stainless chain tensioner bolt.
Found the wire severed to the water temp sensors that I runs into the heads. Should be getting that this week. Ordered an oil check valve/ filter that runs between the oil tank and oil pump.
Got one bolt out of the left side which is the one I was concerned about since I could not find a replacement foot rest assy. The right side is broke off too far up to get anything on it. With how hard the left side was to get out even after welding a nut then snapped off so welded a washer and then a nut to it and used a lot of penetrating oil to get it out. We decided to save the aggravation of trying an easy out on the other side since I had the $30 right side foot rest at home. Got the rivets drilled out for that and going to put the replacement in today or tomorrow.
Clutches: scored 2 p-85 clutches from 2020 axis chassis sleds from a co worker. $400 for the pair, one with 600 trail miles and the other with 0 miles. Going to disassemble and swap springs and weights over. Guy said he thinks he’s got a secondary also. I don’t think I want to mess with setting up a secondary just yet and if I did I’d probably look for maybe a car with an encapsulated roller. Loved one I had from Hi-Tech Performance on an 01 Mtn cat 800. Having belt deflection set automatically would be cool along with wicked fast back-shifting.
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Well soon find out. If it is got two pro chassis and an Axis that they would work for spares.
2020 800’s had the 850 taper.
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