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Multiple Pull Starts. Low idle.

I've noticed more often having harder starts; 2-3 pulls [with a little throttle] (even when warm), low idle at times (to the point where the gauge goes dead).
It sorta seems to be slowly progressing.

I think I have an idea where to start, but wondering what others may think or have to say on this.
With all the fuel filter talk in the last months, I'm pretty sure I need to start there.
I'll be replacing that next.

Otherwise, the sled seems to run fine from engagement to WOT as far as I'm aware. Maybe I'm missing some power and don't know it, but I have it clutched (MDS) to pull proper RPM.

Any other ideas?
Could fuel filter really cause an issue like this with fuel injection?

Thanks.
 
My 12 did this and it was the TPS. I had trouble going into reverse, as well. Had the TPS adjusted up and added some dielectic grease to the connector and it solved the issue. Idle increased to 1850 avg. I was seeing 1450-1500 before adjustment.

Also, you might add some black duct tape over the headlight adjuster. Snow accumulates there & melts down the adjuster hole and ends up in the TPS/belt.

:present:
 
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My 12 did this and it was the TPS. I had trouble going into reverse, as well. Had the TPS adjusted up and added some dielectic grease to the connector and it solved the issue. Idle increased to 1850 avg. I was seeing 1450-1500 before adjustment.

Also, you might add some balck duct tape over the headlight adjuster. Snow accumulates there & melts down the adjuster hole and ends up in the TPS/belt.

:present:

Ugh, thanks Randman, I'll dink with the TPS...again.
That is one thing I tried to 'set' earlier this season, so could be quite possible.
What a finicky pita, none the less.
 
curious to what you find. Mine has somewhat started doing this. With mine ive noticed that if after riding it if i dont let it sit and idle for about 5seconds before turning it off i have to use multiple pulls and a little throttle. Also sometimes when i start it none of my gauges light up and idle is low untill i blip the throttle. Then everything is fine.

I just changed my fuel filter so will see if thats it. Old one was restricted pretty good. Also i checked my reeds beginning of this year so i dont think thats my problem at least.

On TPS do you have to take it to a dealer? Do they just hook up onto it with a computer and set it or do they mechanically adjust cables?
 
curious to what you find. Mine has somewhat started doing this. With mine ive noticed that if after riding it if i dont let it sit and idle for about 5seconds before turning it off i have to use multiple pulls and a little throttle. Also sometimes when i start it none of my gauges light up and idle is low untill i blip the throttle. Then everything is fine.

I just changed my fuel filter so will see if thats it. Old one was restricted pretty good. Also i checked my reeds beginning of this year so i dont think thats my problem at least.

On TPS do you have to take it to a dealer? Do they just hook up onto it with a computer and set it or do they mechanically adjust cables?

Mine is the exact same way, also curious about how to adjust it
 
Thanks for the tip!
I adjusted my TPS in the cable, its at your bars, covered in a rubber deal..

Slide the rubber deal UP the cable (don't go down, I tore my rubber deal up by going down).
Loosen the lock nut, then turn the larger adjuster.
I did it while idling to find the sweet spot.

Mostly 1st pull starts all day, idle is better.


I also did put some packing tape over the head light adjustment hole too...just to be safe.
 
Reeds

Tps and reeds check first.
Then measure your colapsed piston skirts. Mine had those symptoms before a cylinder skirt snapped off and lunched the whole bottom end.
Sent it to indydan.
Check yours before it gernades!!!!!
 
Thanks for the tip!
I adjusted my TPS in the cable, its at your bars, covered in a rubber deal..

Slide the rubber deal UP the cable (don't go down, I tore my rubber deal up by going down).
Loosen the lock nut, then turn the larger adjuster.
I did it while idling to find the sweet spot.

Mostly 1st pull starts all day, idle is better.


I also did put some packing tape over the head light adjustment hole too...just to be safe.

Rotax,

I think you adjusted the free play on the throttle cable.
The TPS adjustment is usually done by the dealer and the secondary clutch needs to be removed to gain access to it. (Throttle Position Sensor)

:present:
 
Mine was doing the same thing and had my dealer adjust TPS and it seems much better
 
Thanks for the tip!
I adjusted my TPS in the cable, its at your bars, covered in a rubber deal..

Slide the rubber deal UP the cable (don't go down, I tore my rubber deal up by going down).
Loosen the lock nut, then turn the larger adjuster.
I did it while idling to find the sweet spot.

Mostly 1st pull starts all day, idle is better.


I also did put some packing tape over the head light adjustment hole too...just to be safe.

What u actually did was over tighten your throttle cable to the point were it us holding the throttle bodies open a bit. You should not leave it like this. U need a small amount of freeplayin the cable .
 
What u actually did was over tighten your throttle cable to the point were it us holding the throttle bodies open a bit. You should not leave it like this. U need a small amount of freeplayin the cable .

Actually, I think originally I had overtightened to the point of slightly engaging the TPS on the throttle lever.

What I last did was loosen it (there is more free-play now) and it seems to have eleviated the issue, other than having a sloppy throttle lever.

Can the TPS not be disabled/removed? I wear a tether, every sled should come with one anyway, this TPS stuff is a joke and causes more problems in the long run.
 
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