Mounting M10 136, struggling...

[XSKIER]

I measured and laid out the template parallel to the tunnel. The front cross shaft is about 5/8" from the driver and about 1" above the drive shaft. Everything looks ok, as far as angle of attack, static ride height, and the rail sits nicely on the floor in relation to the front end. The problem is that with my adjusters all the way backed off, and rear axle bottomed on the rails, The track is rubber band tight, so much that I can not turn it by hand. Now, if I move the skid forward 1/2" the cross shaft is only 1/8" from the driver (9t) and I don't think that it will be enough to make the track tension right. Has any one had a similar experience, or has my track shrunk from sitting on the shelf for a year?

 

[dpsnodno]

Try going staight to the source. Fast inc # is: 218-744-2101 . Call and talk to one of the techs there, I'm sure they can steer you in the right direction.

 

[XSKIER]

Alright, it's in now. I moved it ahead and up. Now with the rear idler axle all the way in I have about 2 1/2" of sag in the middle. The funny thing is that the front limiter straps are about .030" from the drive wheels!!! Seems as though if I ever wanted to run extroverts, it would not happen with this suspension, or just go with 6 tooth?

 

[yammi4ever]

I just went thru the smaller driver problem with m10, and you are right you must move the mounts to put them in. I was not too pleased that they did not tell you that in the instructions. Pretty sick feeling being all installed and having the tightener all the way back and still having 5 inches of sag. I now have several hours and a few more holes invested in my sled because of it. There is no reason they cannot make that one of the questions they ask before installing.

Said "never had that come up on a yamaha, have on a ski doo and arctic cat tho". It is in now, and their tech guy i talked to was pretty good and took my venting pretty well also.

Good luck

kirk