Sled deck mounting
3 years ago, I built a sled deck. We had a 2004 GMC at the time, and it was cheaper for me to build one than buy it. I also had specific features I wanted, and this way I got them:
The deck is high enough to fit fuel jugs underneath, (just barely). Also, the main frame rails are c-channel, with the openings towards the center. The ramp is stored in the channel. The ramp actually contacts the tailgate when the 'gate is up. This leaves me a lot of open cargo space.
I wanted a wooden deck. Yes, aluminum would be more durable, but much more $$, and the wood is easy and cheap enough to replace. I figure I’m happy if I get 2 seasons out of the deck, and so far, I’m on 3 light-use years. I’m OK with that.
I also wanted railings, not just a sheet edge. I wanted them high enough that if the deck got snowed on while riding, I could kick the snow off the sides, and still have the rails functional to keep the sled on top as I load.
I designed 4 chains/turnbuckels that came diagonally (the front ones came forward, outward, and downward from the deck to the mounting point, and the rears can back, out and down. This way the force vectors want to keep the deck centered, and held down on the bed.
I used large turnbuckles, both for strength, and ease of use. But, I rigged up a smaller chain with quick links that was able to connect to the OE tie down 'rings'. The smaller chain and quick links still exceeded the capacity of the large turnbuckles, so I wasn't reducing strength.
Here are some pics of the deck in the GMC.
This first one shows the left front corner, from the outside. You can see how I attached the chain to the main structural member.
This second one shows the left rear from the inside. The OE 'hoop' is hidden by the rear leg, but you can see the chain/turnbuckle setup.
The third is the left front from inside. If you zoom in, you can get an idea of the setup.
The factory cargo hooks on either my 04 GMC or my 06 Ram are not what I would consider ideal for this kind of force. While the GMC hoops did hold up far better than the plastic cleats the dodge comes with, they still bent from the forces.
After we bought the Dodge Ram, I modified the deck to fit that box. And, with the plastic OE tie cleats, there was no way I was going to ask them to hold the tie down forces I needed, so I chose to make my own tie eyes. I took a large eye, and welded it closed, then, a nut all the way up, a large washer, through a drilled hole in the floor of the bed (found a location near the perpendicular supports in the sheet metal) and a large aluminum plate, another steel washer and a nylock. I ran this setup down nice and tight. The aluminum plates are about 3"x5" and 1/4" thick. I put body seam sealer under the plates before tightening, to help prevent any 'oblonging' of the holes, as there is a significant side load. So far, it has worked great.
The underside:
the topside:
This is the right rear leg of the deck, you can see how I triangulated the leg. The truck rides and sits kinda high, so loading is a violent process, and with the short box truck, the majority of the weight is carried on the back legs. The triangulation adds lots of strength. If you look closely, you can see the turnbuckle and chain behind the leg.
With the way I have my deck chained to those eyes, I can take the deck off by myself in 10 min. I have some straps hanging from the roof of my carport, and just use them to lift it off.
If you have any questions, feel free to post for everyone, or send me a PM.
PE
3 years ago, I built a sled deck. We had a 2004 GMC at the time, and it was cheaper for me to build one than buy it. I also had specific features I wanted, and this way I got them:
The deck is high enough to fit fuel jugs underneath, (just barely). Also, the main frame rails are c-channel, with the openings towards the center. The ramp is stored in the channel. The ramp actually contacts the tailgate when the 'gate is up. This leaves me a lot of open cargo space.
I wanted a wooden deck. Yes, aluminum would be more durable, but much more $$, and the wood is easy and cheap enough to replace. I figure I’m happy if I get 2 seasons out of the deck, and so far, I’m on 3 light-use years. I’m OK with that.
I also wanted railings, not just a sheet edge. I wanted them high enough that if the deck got snowed on while riding, I could kick the snow off the sides, and still have the rails functional to keep the sled on top as I load.
I designed 4 chains/turnbuckels that came diagonally (the front ones came forward, outward, and downward from the deck to the mounting point, and the rears can back, out and down. This way the force vectors want to keep the deck centered, and held down on the bed.
I used large turnbuckles, both for strength, and ease of use. But, I rigged up a smaller chain with quick links that was able to connect to the OE tie down 'rings'. The smaller chain and quick links still exceeded the capacity of the large turnbuckles, so I wasn't reducing strength.
Here are some pics of the deck in the GMC.
This first one shows the left front corner, from the outside. You can see how I attached the chain to the main structural member.
This second one shows the left rear from the inside. The OE 'hoop' is hidden by the rear leg, but you can see the chain/turnbuckle setup.
The third is the left front from inside. If you zoom in, you can get an idea of the setup.
The factory cargo hooks on either my 04 GMC or my 06 Ram are not what I would consider ideal for this kind of force. While the GMC hoops did hold up far better than the plastic cleats the dodge comes with, they still bent from the forces.
After we bought the Dodge Ram, I modified the deck to fit that box. And, with the plastic OE tie cleats, there was no way I was going to ask them to hold the tie down forces I needed, so I chose to make my own tie eyes. I took a large eye, and welded it closed, then, a nut all the way up, a large washer, through a drilled hole in the floor of the bed (found a location near the perpendicular supports in the sheet metal) and a large aluminum plate, another steel washer and a nylock. I ran this setup down nice and tight. The aluminum plates are about 3"x5" and 1/4" thick. I put body seam sealer under the plates before tightening, to help prevent any 'oblonging' of the holes, as there is a significant side load. So far, it has worked great.
The underside:
the topside:
This is the right rear leg of the deck, you can see how I triangulated the leg. The truck rides and sits kinda high, so loading is a violent process, and with the short box truck, the majority of the weight is carried on the back legs. The triangulation adds lots of strength. If you look closely, you can see the turnbuckle and chain behind the leg.
With the way I have my deck chained to those eyes, I can take the deck off by myself in 10 min. I have some straps hanging from the roof of my carport, and just use them to lift it off.
If you have any questions, feel free to post for everyone, or send me a PM.
PE
