Mountain Fit Hood

[FrostBite2010]

Anyone running a mountain fit hood? I put one on mine and wasn't impressed with the fit but after hours of tweaking I got it to where I can tolerate it.

I am having a very hard time keeping the snow out of the vents, its passing through the pet screen on the outside and stopping at the pre-filter and its staying inside the vent suffocating the motor.

Anyone else having this issue?

 

[dolezal180]

Yes had the same issue, not real happy, the whole intake iced up. He got us some vent covers with the screen and prefilter switched around. Now we havnt had good snow to try it. My buddy took his off and got a complete different hood. If it was possible to return them I would. What really scares me is a rivet pin vibrating loose and going through the motor. I know they say to silicone backside of rivets and we did but it still bothers me.

 

[compound 1300]

Unfit-hood

My hood fits very bad also, the worst area on mine is where the side panel overlaps the hood their is a 1/2" gap between them in middle of panel then tapers down in each direction so snow just passes right thru. I am worried about rivet failing especially if it takes a big impact also powder bogging caused by venting clogging. It would be a good hood if you were running a turbo or supercharger that had it's own intake system and fit better. I might be able to heat hood and mold it to fit better, Very disappointing.

 

[mountin fit]

little help

The most common problem we have seen with mounting the hood is trying to match up the front edge of the lower section of the hood to the stock back half like the stock setup does. Our hood is designed to overlap the stock back half of the stock hood that is reused not butted to it like the OEM hood. Doing so pushes the hood forward and makes the hood seem like its to short.

We are well aware of the issue with snow getting stuck between the layers of mesh, the intake is designed with several areas to draw air from, and a large surface area to draw from.
Calking the windshield to the hood helps seal off the large under gauge vent from the snow coming up the hood. You cannot get snow through the prefilter, at times it will freeze up, and on a very wet day you may get a little moisture through the prefilter but not enough to cause problems.
We will send anyone that wishes a set of vents with the prefilter on the outside of the vent. We have started building the large under gauge vent included in our kit with the mesh to the outside, it is hidden and well protected and did not really need the coarse mesh to the outside for protection.

The snow ingestion problems we have seen has been a problem with the OEM seal between the back half of the stock hood and the intake boot. The stock seal is very thin and care must be taken when reinstalling the hood to make sure that foam seal is in place. We have used a thicker piece of foam to help seal this area if your stock seal has failed.

The rivet pin issue is really not a issue, we mention it to make you aware of the slight chance of losing a pin, and to get you to not skip the silicone. Anyone that has tried to remove a rivet pin know that 99.99999% of the time it requires a punch, a hammer, and real effort to remove the pin from a rivet. We easily could of skipped saying anything about the rivets but wanted to upfront about it and educate people on the issue. We looked at useing plastic fasteners instead the problem with the plastic fasteners is that is with time they do brake, and will send plastic pieces through your intake. We honestly feel the rivets are the best choice and with a little effort are 110% safe.

The small gap between the hood and side panel has never been a problem, the edge of the hood rolls upward and keeps the snow out. Most any stock 2stroke proclimb with any miles on it has a similar gap, the stock hood has quite abit of give in that area as does the side panel.

We have a season of testing on this hood, as well as installing over a dozen in different configurations to make sure the hood works. this hood does take some effort to install and setup, we honestly believe its worth the effort for a honest 12 pounds of weight loss and complete OEM style intake. In the end please remember this is the most complete hood available for the proclimb with the best weight loss, all for under 350.00. Thank you, Mnt Fit

 

[FrostBite2010]

The most common problem we have seen with mounting the hood is trying to match up the front edge of the lower section of the hood to the stock back half like the stock setup does. Our hood is designed to overlap the stock back half of the stock hood that is reused not butted to it like the OEM hood. Doing so pushes the hood forward and makes the hood seem like its to short.

We are well aware of the issue with snow getting stuck between the layers of mesh, the intake is designed with several areas to draw air from, and a large surface area to draw from.
Calking the windshield to the hood helps seal off the large under gauge vent from the snow coming up the hood. You cannot get snow through the prefilter, at times it will freeze up, and on a very wet day you may get a little moisture through the prefilter but not enough to cause problems.
We will send anyone that wishes a set of vents with the prefilter on the outside of the vent. We have started building the large under gauge vent included in our kit with the mesh to the outside, it is hidden and well protected and did not really need the coarse mesh to the outside for protection.

The snow ingestion problems we have seen has been a problem with the OEM seal between the back half of the stock hood and the intake boot. The stock seal is very thin and care must be taken when reinstalling the hood to make sure that foam seal is in place. We have used a thicker piece of foam to help seal this area if your stock seal has failed.

The rivet pin issue is really not a issue, we mention it to make you aware of the slight chance of losing a pin, and to get you to not skip the silicone. Anyone that has tried to remove a rivet pin know that 99.99999% of the time it requires a punch, a hammer, and real effort to remove the pin from a rivet. We easily could of skipped saying anything about the rivets but wanted to upfront about it and educate people on the issue. We looked at useing plastic fasteners instead the problem with the plastic fasteners is that is with time they do brake, and will send plastic pieces through your intake. We honestly feel the rivets are the best choice and with a little effort are 110% safe.

The small gap between the hood and side panel has never been a problem, the edge of the hood rolls upward and keeps the snow out. Most any stock 2stroke proclimb with any miles on it has a similar gap, the stock hood has quite abit of give in that area as does the side panel.

We have a season of testing on this hood, as well as installing over a dozen in different configurations to make sure the hood works. this hood does take some effort to install and setup, we honestly believe its worth the effort for a honest 12 pounds of weight loss and complete OEM style intake. In the end please remember this is the most complete hood available for the proclimb with the best weight loss, all for under 350.00. Thank you, Mnt Fit

You can send new vents that's great and all but its still going to be a giant pain in the *** to pull the entire hood apart to clean up all the rivets that were drilled out in the process not to mention cleaning up all of the silicone to reinstall the intake shelf.

I don't have any gaps between my side panels as previously mentioned but you can solve all these fit issues by giving a set of instructions, that video is not worth much, all it shows is how to use a caulking gun and an air riveter, it shows you nothing on how to mock up and fit the oem nose cone to correctly fit the hood. There is also no mention of putting backing washers behind the rivets that go into the nose cone. Its near impossible to get a backing washer in there in the first place. I custom fit a 1/8" piece of aluminum to drill through so you have a backer plate, just drill and rivet. Something similar should be provided. All in all yes, for the price the weight loss is great, is it worth the effort? For a boosted sled certainly... with the intake shelf, I wouldn't go through that much effort and price again for something that fits that poorly. I will be ordering a reaper motorsports kit for my factory hood and we will see if the vents fix the mountain fit one. Its hard enough to take an oem hood on and off while tuning this big bore, let alone one that requires a second person to push on to get the screws in.

 

[jbusch]

The most common problem we have seen with mounting the hood is trying to match up the front edge of the lower section of the hood to the stock back half like the stock setup does. Our hood is designed to overlap the stock back half of the stock hood that is reused not butted to it like the OEM hood. Doing so pushes the hood forward and makes the hood seem like its to short.

We are well aware of the issue with snow getting stuck between the layers of mesh, the intake is designed with several areas to draw air from, and a large surface area to draw from.
Calking the windshield to the hood helps seal off the large under gauge vent from the snow coming up the hood. You cannot get snow through the prefilter, at times it will freeze up, and on a very wet day you may get a little moisture through the prefilter but not enough to cause problems.
We will send anyone that wishes a set of vents with the prefilter on the outside of the vent. We have started building the large under gauge vent included in our kit with the mesh to the outside, it is hidden and well protected and did not really need the coarse mesh to the outside for protection.

The snow ingestion problems we have seen has been a problem with the OEM seal between the back half of the stock hood and the intake boot. The stock seal is very thin and care must be taken when reinstalling the hood to make sure that foam seal is in place. We have used a thicker piece of foam to help seal this area if your stock seal has failed.

The rivet pin issue is really not a issue, we mention it to make you aware of the slight chance of losing a pin, and to get you to not skip the silicone. Anyone that has tried to remove a rivet pin know that 99.99999% of the time it requires a punch, a hammer, and real effort to remove the pin from a rivet. We easily could of skipped saying anything about the rivets but wanted to upfront about it and educate people on the issue. We looked at useing plastic fasteners instead the problem with the plastic fasteners is that is with time they do brake, and will send plastic pieces through your intake. We honestly feel the rivets are the best choice and with a little effort are 110% safe.

The small gap between the hood and side panel has never been a problem, the edge of the hood rolls upward and keeps the snow out. Most any stock 2stroke proclimb with any miles on it has a similar gap, the stock hood has quite abit of give in that area as does the side panel.

We have a season of testing on this hood, as well as installing over a dozen in different configurations to make sure the hood works. this hood does take some effort to install and setup, we honestly believe its worth the effort for a honest 12 pounds of weight loss and complete OEM style intake. In the end please remember this is the most complete hood available for the proclimb with the best weight loss, all for under 350.00. Thank you, Mnt Fit

I have his hood and overall I'm happy. Install was fairly simple. I ran it all last season and had to take it off a handful of times form one reason or another and came off easy and back on easy. Sure I had to push a little here and tug a little there to get it to fit the way it wanted it to but fit is good lines are clean and very happy with it super light the front of my sled is as light as my buddies pro rmk

 

[Snowmobile Kid]

I am running two of bills hoods, one on my M1100T which I liked so much I decided to order a second for my Proclimb 800. The 1100 hood fits great, just as good as the OEM hood, of course there is no nose piece or intake shelf on the 1100's so that makes life easier.

I didn't know if I wanted to use the intake shelf or not on my 800, so I ordered one anyway. Ultimately I decided to build my own air intake similar to my 1100. We had the whole thing done in one day. I ran the filter out of the hood where one of the vents would go, that way if I ever decide to run the shelf I can install the vents without having a 3" hole in my hood. My 800 took a little more time to get everything into place but nothing major.

In my opinion this is the easiest way to save 13 pounds, and the Mountain fit hood looks the best, the way bill lowered to headlights, it looks mean and I've had a lot of compliments on the hood. On top of that bill is great to work with, he has always been very helpful to me, I've ordered a hood on Monday and it was on my door step Tuesday.

 

[Snowmobile Kid]

The 800.....