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Motor to header flange, how about using seperate peices for each cylinder?

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
SO... i had issues earlier in the season with my header/motor flange warping, had it machined smooth and WOW, the same boost levels were a LOT more powerful then with it leaking. ran good for a while, i noticed some cracking in my header, so i took it off and did some major welding on the collector part of it.. NOW i noticed that the flange on the motor side is warped(presumably from the intense welding) I dont want to get it machined again as I feel like im just going backwards then making it so much thinner..

My thought was to cut the flange between each cylinder so that it can mate properly.. there is a genlte warp across the whole thing and there is no way the tiny little bolts are going to suck it back in as a whole, but as peices it might come together nice?? Hate to destroy a $60 flange, but man, my boost is so freakin inconsistant and weak right now. I have to run like 20+ psi in the flats to get it to hold 13/14 in deep mushy spring snow..this isnt helping me nail down my clutching at all!
 
Thick one piece flange and a turbo mount bracket is a must in my opinion. Also making sure the bolts don't back out allowing it to warp will help.
 
turbo is hung, was getting cracking because my tunnel dump was vibrating against the tunnel and causing it to crack under heavy load/tweaking of the chassis. never really had bolt issues, it warped when i had it out welding and got it super hot. was able to almost seal it back up but just not working out and then it just starts to leak and blows out the seal around on the gasket with the copper spray on it.
 
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