Motor down in out 2016 Axys

[HECKS]

Have been running Indy Dan's magnetic weights for the last 4 seasons, delrin washer, mulitple springs. With the Jaws pipe for 8350 - 8450 RPM
Mostly ran 120/340 and 125/310 depending on snow conditions. Belt/sheave clearence has been set at 0.035".
Engagement approx 3700-4000 rpm

 

[volcano buster]

Unreal. I'm no clutching expert, but it would appear to me that your engagement is low enough to start engaging the belt before the motor starts building HP and the clearance should not give it too much room to move.

 

[indydan]

I'm going to check those line for blockage, but all other were working, as MAG side has lots of oil in it. Not to familiar with these pumps, but I'll need to check it out

Sorry for your bad luck Buddy !

you are correct your oil line did not fall off and cause that problem.

your pictures explain it all.

look closely at the Rod pin the wheel slide off the pin ( See the step ? )

And Look closely at the Bearing it’s missing the ball separator. ( once the separator is gone the the PTO-end has not support )

Ball separator failed first and then the pto-end started wobbling ( That cause it to come off the Rod pin ) then it hits the crankcase the crankcase gets extremely hot from the friction and the oil line starts to melt and falls off.

Thank you for running our clutch products ( For being a good customer we can help you out getting it back on the snow and help with the Canadian exchange a little )

Dan

 

[HECKS]

Thanks Dan ! I've been in contact with Devon for info, and thanks to him for the quick responses.
I found a low mile bottom end with crank, but the PTO bearing feels sloppy. So I am in the process of installing new PTO bearing and new crank seals to get this running for the season.

 

[indydan]

Thanks Dan ! I've been in contact with Devon for info, and thanks to him for the quick responses.
I found a low mile bottom end with crank, but the PTO bearing feels sloppy. So I am in the process of installing new PTO bearing and new crank seals to get this running for the season.

Devin really tries hard to help quickly.

you might want to strongly consider not using a OEM PTO bearing.

on our Short Rod motors we use 2 OEM Polaris Koyo center bearings with the seals removed. ( A custom bearing spacer is need against the crank wheel with a big radius to match the crank wheel face bearing radius. ) then a thin bearing spacer between the bearings to set them out by the seal.

on the Long Rod motors we use 1- double wide 5207 LT1 C4 and 1 Koyo center bearing with the seals removed.

The Wide OEM bearing is much more pron to ball separator failure.

Devin can machine you up the correct spacers if you go that route.

Dan

 

[HECKS]

Devin really tries hard to help quickly.

you might want to strongly consider not using a OEM PTO bearing.

on our Short Rod motors we use 2 OEM Polaris Koyo center bearings with the seals removed. ( A custom bearing spacer is need against the crank wheel with a big radius to match the crank wheel face bearing radius. ) then a thin bearing spacer between the bearings to set them out by the seal.

on the Long Rod motors we use 1- double wide 5207 LT1 C4 and 1 Koyo center bearing with the seals removed.

The Wide OEM bearing is much more pron to ball separator failure.

Devin can machine you up the correct spacers if you go that route.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I will contact Devon again, and see if I can purchase bearings and spacers direct from you guys !

 

[HECKS]

Big thanks to Indy Specialties for helping me out with an HG7 top end and advising on PTO bearing alternative.
Keep this unit rotating for another 5,000 + miles.

 

[HECKS]

Getting ready to assemble engine finally. Attempted my first crank truing experience, and after lots of hours being picky, I've got the MAG & PTO side to 0.0005" measuring just outside the shaft taper. The tip of the PTO end I have 0.001 - 0.0015, but there is some minor pitting. Injectors were flow tested and primary was balanced again and no adjustments were required.

 

[HECKS]

Engine's together and got a bit crazy with the polish, so figured it deserved a picture lol.
Indy Specialties cylinders are beauties too.

 

[A@ron]

Looks mint. Great job ?

 

[HECKS]

Thanks. She's ready to rock again....

 

[A@ron]

What do you use to polish those parts?

 

[HECKS]

Mothers aluminum polish. I had sanded the head/cover down then polished.

 

[HECKS]

Everything is back together and runs lol. Just need to get out and break it in.

 

[Snowbird11]

Everything is back together and runs lol. Just need to get out and break it in.
View attachment 397207View attachment 397208View attachment 397209

Nice work. Am I reading the odometer correctly or are those kilometers? Either way, strong work keeping it alive that long in the mountains.


Btw, how is she running after break in?

 

[HECKS]

Canadian sledder, so I run her in km.
Just got back from a 6 day ride west of Revelstoke. Put on 320 miles, Ran great with break in pre trip, but have some over fueling issues day 3. Bogging issues up to 5000-6000 ft. Once in riding zones it ran great. Thinking exhaust valve position issue and/or injectors. No codes except soft DET. New plugs fixed most of the issue, but was having soft DET issue at cruising speed in the same stretch of trail on the way down every night.

 

[A@ron]

Running straight 91 or a little pre mix for break in?

 

[HECKS]

Ran 50:1 for 2 tanks, then 75:1 for 2 tanks, as per Indy Dan's guidelines. I have always ran Shell premium, but this trip was filled up at Chevron 94. Thinking back, days 1-2 had Shell fuel in my sled and jerry cans. Days 3-6 were filled with Chevron fuel, so possible issue could have been eth content. Sled has always ran in non-eth mode with the Jaws pipe.

 

[A@ron]

I kno my sled ran like **** while I was breaking it in with pre-mix. What plugs are you running?

 

[A@ron]

Also is there a chance that 94 was too much octane at your elevation?