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I have a 23 freeride N/a and i am looking for more power. Has anyone tried the Big bore from bikeman? Or stage kit from startingline? What is working well?
100% AGREED.You can spend thousands on upgrading your sled to be slightly better or sell it and buy a turbo 2”with warranty for the arm pulling experience your looking for…
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Good info here thank you!Depends how much you are ready to spend, but here are my thoughts.
First and cheapest thing is to flash your ECU. No parts change needed, simple flash and go. Proper flash should give 7-10hp on 850etec. Also better throttle response and more mid range torque and power. Ibexx, Precision Efi, there are lots of tunes to consider.
The next step from here is either the pipe or heads. Jaws makes an excellent pipe for 850 with 7-8hp gain and Powder freaks have heads that bring a lot of torque on the whole range. Personally I would first put in heads and then the pipe. Torque is the thing that makes the whole ride feel more powerful and different.
After all this, you should have around +18-20hp and a lots more torque and sharper throttle response. Bolt on parts, easy.
Bigbore kits are not realiable and very expensive. Porting and reeds are waste of money in my opinion. Best bang for the buck are flash, heads and pipe.
He’s a genius builds amazing engines .Rode a bb doo built by bret lindeman in 2021, Its an animal.
Guessing he's not looking for turbo power. You aren't going to make turbo power, at elevation, with a bb either. If you were close it wouldn't be reliable. I have a 9r and turbo shredder. The turbo 850 is awesome but there is something just fun about the quick revving 9r in the trees. Wouldn't give up either.You can’t make turbo power with a pipe and head , if you want to get there you need porting or bb , porting, or good porting is one of the cheapest ways to make hp , if you don’t want to pull cylinders, Slp pipe and powder freaks head work great it’s a real tqr monster pipe .
The only 2 companies I would go with as far as exhaust is Starting line (SLP) or Jawz. BM?...not-a-chance.I have a 23 freeride N/a and i am looking for more power. Has anyone tried the Big bore from bikeman? Or stage kit from startingline? What is working well?
You seem to know your stuff REALLY good, but I have a hard time believing OEM would leave almost 15% (9 points on 61 based on your numbers) on the table as far as clutching efficiency goes. Unless you tell me there's a clear giveaway why the wouldn't do that...like noise, belt life or else.The only 2 companies I would go with as far as exhaust is Starting line (SLP) or Jawz. BM?...not-a-chance.
I would only do a complete exhaust with a mountain can, or stock muffler. Don't ever just do a "high flow" y-pipe, rather, give that $ to the food bank instead.
I have a handful of customers including one of my main test guys who've done a complete exhaust, PF cylinder head and set of reeds, dropped 1 or 2 teeth and have had to add [on average] 3 grams weight; that's some serious torque increase at 8100 rpms at 6000~7000 feet.
Factory clutching is about 60~63% efficient.
A clutch kit brings the efficiency up 8~10 points and its very good if its around the 69% efficiency.
If you spend $$$ on a complete exhaust system, that makes an example 12~13hp over stock [being generous], you still have to factor in the factory 60~63% clutching efficiency. Again, being generous; @13hp x 0.63 = 8.2hp available to the track.
Where you'll get 1~2 more points is by optimizing the powertrain with a gear selection based on your operation type. Get another 1 point by tailoring the engagement speed for your riding style. You can get in the 70~71% conversion efficiency by optimizing these settings.
Stock engine, @ 7000 feet, you have 130hp and about 81hp at the track. Bring that to 91hp with a clutch kit, 92~93hp to the track with optimal gearing.
Competent clutch kit, optimal gear selection, engagement speed that you like the best, and your sled will be bad-a$s every time you pin throttle.
The percent numbers I report are old but I would guess they are relevant today. The two times I heard them, once in 1998 when I was working for Cat, and another in 2005 at skidoo race school. In 1998 at a race somewhere, I went up to Claude Fortin [one of the engineers of the modern rotax piston port engine] and scolded him about skidoo not making the rotary valve anymore. I was quickly put in my place by his conversation back to me, to my face, "inside of the fence" all brands [cat/doo/poo/yam, etc] have to deal with wide range of inputs of use and have a transmission calibration delivered in a general way rather than concentrating on details. The transmission calibration has to be such that there is little to no tuning on the customers part. We do acceleration tests, deceleration tests, sound and exhaust emission testing, etc [and other details I'd have to look in my diary to recall]. "Outside of the fence" we are not responsible for what the aftermarket does. That's where guys like you come in Joe.You seem to know your stuff REALLY good, but I have a hard time believing OEM would leave almost 15% (9 points on 61 based on your numbers) on the table as far as clutching efficiency goes. Unless you tell me there's a clear giveaway why the wouldn't do that...like noise, belt life or else.