Mods for M7?
- Thread starter AndyM7
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mtn mike on boost
Well-known member
depending on the can you bought (a lot just dont work)i would stay away from pipe and or y pipe. best money spent on a head and clutching will yeild the best gains.
there are a lot of free to cheap mods to do to that sled as well.
there are a lot of free to cheap mods to do to that sled as well.
M7 Mods
how about a turbo haha jk! If i was you I would put in a Jaws twin pipe from Brent Linderman at http://www.jawsperformance.com/perexh5.html#m7%20pipes
Hope this helps!
how about a turbo haha jk! If i was you I would put in a Jaws twin pipe from Brent Linderman at http://www.jawsperformance.com/perexh5.html#m7%20pipes
Hope this helps!
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sledhead699
Member
for good mods like said above clutching and a good head (RKT) and gets some vents on that bad boy. would stay away from pipes lots of tunning and the twins are very moddy.
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swervin
Member
Recommendation 1: turn down the oil pump. I'm not sure about 2006, but 2005 M7's burned WAY WAY WAY too much oil. (I finally got rid of the pump altogether, and just premix.)
Recommendation 2: use Legend ZX-2R or ZX2-SR oil. They are the cheapest way to get a tiny bit more power, while also getting more protection and burning cleaner.
Recommendation 3: The weakest link on M7's (and all M sleds) is the secondary clutch, with is a piece of junk. The best cheap modification you can make on an M7 is to buy a twist spring secondary clutch kit. This allows you to use old Cat secondary clutch springs. There are several brands avaiable - ask any reputable Cat dealer.
Recommendation 4: Don't do ANY engine mods unless you are prepared to buy a Boondocker box and know how to tune a 2 stroke. If you buy a Boondocker and know how to tune, the best mod by far is Jaws twin pipes. They are FAR superior to other brands on the M7. If you ride at high elevation, get the big bore Jaws twin pipes (they were designed for the "big bore" 800cc kit before the M8 came out). Just with this mod, you'll kick butt on M8's... IF you get the clutching and fuel injection map correct (if you PM me, I'll be happy to send you my map settings). Contrary to one of the above comments, the Jaws twins are NOT "moddy". They are very tractable, smooth, and easy to tune.
Recommendation 5: DON'T buy a head. An aftermarket head is the biggest waste of money on a Cat. High compression heads do not result in more track speed, and they cause all sorts of tuning problems, especially at high elevation. Not to mention making the motor more prone to damage from bad gas, mixture, and timing. Whatever you do, don't do a head AND pipes. One or the other. Most people don't realize that pipes increase the effective compression ratio.
If you do these things, you can stay with any new stock sled, including Dragon 8's, XP 800's, M8's and M1000's. (If you want to spend more $$$, pm me and I'll share how I set up my M7 to out-climb ANY non-turbo sled on the mountain.)
Recommendation 2: use Legend ZX-2R or ZX2-SR oil. They are the cheapest way to get a tiny bit more power, while also getting more protection and burning cleaner.
Recommendation 3: The weakest link on M7's (and all M sleds) is the secondary clutch, with is a piece of junk. The best cheap modification you can make on an M7 is to buy a twist spring secondary clutch kit. This allows you to use old Cat secondary clutch springs. There are several brands avaiable - ask any reputable Cat dealer.
Recommendation 4: Don't do ANY engine mods unless you are prepared to buy a Boondocker box and know how to tune a 2 stroke. If you buy a Boondocker and know how to tune, the best mod by far is Jaws twin pipes. They are FAR superior to other brands on the M7. If you ride at high elevation, get the big bore Jaws twin pipes (they were designed for the "big bore" 800cc kit before the M8 came out). Just with this mod, you'll kick butt on M8's... IF you get the clutching and fuel injection map correct (if you PM me, I'll be happy to send you my map settings). Contrary to one of the above comments, the Jaws twins are NOT "moddy". They are very tractable, smooth, and easy to tune.
Recommendation 5: DON'T buy a head. An aftermarket head is the biggest waste of money on a Cat. High compression heads do not result in more track speed, and they cause all sorts of tuning problems, especially at high elevation. Not to mention making the motor more prone to damage from bad gas, mixture, and timing. Whatever you do, don't do a head AND pipes. One or the other. Most people don't realize that pipes increase the effective compression ratio.
If you do these things, you can stay with any new stock sled, including Dragon 8's, XP 800's, M8's and M1000's. (If you want to spend more $$$, pm me and I'll share how I set up my M7 to out-climb ANY non-turbo sled on the mountain.)
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RKT
Well-known member
Everybody is entitled to their opinions.. We appreciate yours.. But it is only 1 opinion..
Tell ya what.. We are only 20 miles apart.. Let's hook up this season for a ride..I would love to see your M7 perform.. you can see mine at the same time..
Let me know..
Kelsey
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mtn_extreme
Well-known member
"(If you want to spend more $$$, pm me and I'll share how I set up my M7 to out-climb ANY non-turbo sled on the mountain.) "
I thought that was a pretty bold statement as well
I thought that was a pretty bold statement as well
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MTm7
Well-known member
that's weird.... there is literally hundreds of people who have aftermarket heads and they say(in particular a rkt head) that it was the best bang for the buck.
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fastcat
New member
if you go to www.2koolperformance.com and check out sled worx, just about every mod for a M7 is on there. Bikeman and D&D are a couple really reputable names, remember all an engine is, is an air pump the more it'll flow the more you'll get. It won't take much to be runnin down the M8's
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swervin
Member
I've not tried an RTK head, and I may be out of date. I'm speaking from years of experience, but a lot of it is old experience. Maybe there are some great heads out there now. I know I'm wierd on this, and a lot of people disagree, and that's OK.
But in my experience, I just haven't seen much improvement with heads. This varies somewhat with the model, but for most 2 stroke snowmobile motors, a well designed pipe does far more than a head. Also in my experience, aftermarket pipe(s) plus high compression heads are a recipe for detonation. I guess you can run av gas or race gas or whatever, but that's never been my thing. I have found that with any squish tighter than .065, you're asking for trouble with pump gas. You never know when you might end up with octane a little lower than you think. Most of these aftermarket heads seem to want to go down to .055 or less and I just think that's nuts to run that close to the edge of detonation.
Many are the pistons I've melted down before I finally gave up and put the stock heads back on. Yes, the stock heads are conservative, designed to be safe at sea level. There is some room for a little more compression without detonation at high elevations... with a stock exhaust. Personally, I just like the safety margin. (Besides, I'm lazy! It's hard enough to pull the starter rope on these monster 800's without making it even harder!)
But in my experience, I just haven't seen much improvement with heads. This varies somewhat with the model, but for most 2 stroke snowmobile motors, a well designed pipe does far more than a head. Also in my experience, aftermarket pipe(s) plus high compression heads are a recipe for detonation. I guess you can run av gas or race gas or whatever, but that's never been my thing. I have found that with any squish tighter than .065, you're asking for trouble with pump gas. You never know when you might end up with octane a little lower than you think. Most of these aftermarket heads seem to want to go down to .055 or less and I just think that's nuts to run that close to the edge of detonation.
Many are the pistons I've melted down before I finally gave up and put the stock heads back on. Yes, the stock heads are conservative, designed to be safe at sea level. There is some room for a little more compression without detonation at high elevations... with a stock exhaust. Personally, I just like the safety margin. (Besides, I'm lazy! It's hard enough to pull the starter rope on these monster 800's without making it even harder!)
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nitro100
New member
First thing I'd get is the Holz suspension bracket for the rear suspension it raises the front arm up, they screwed up on the rear susps on the 05-06 M7s this bracket frees up the track when climbing and goin over bumps gain 5 mph and its under 50 bucks. next I would do a speedwerx ypipe and possible a speedwerx single pipe if u want to spend the money, dont do twin pipes they run like crap. the airbox i would put a 4 in inlet on the box CPC makes one. And then the most important is clutching this will make the biggest difference. I like the team adapter for the secondary, it adapts the clutch so you can run team springs(red/pink team spring). then run a slp blue/yellow in your primary with stock weights or 67.5g speedwerx weights. I have speedwerx weights in mine and love them made a difference. I tried a billet head on mine and i didn't like it detnated really bad, just cuting the head mildly is the way to go. I did the CPC fuel regulator on mine which is a manual adjuster for the fuel pressure which richs and leans it,but id probably do the boondocker box its safer. all this stuff improved my sled from 70 mph to 90 mph on the road and big difference on the hill. A few more things i did was a 3 in handle bar riser, simmon skis, drilled 1 in holes in the track 3 and 2 up the center, inner wheel kit two rear wheels inside, titanium springs on shocks and clutch springs, speedwerx reed spacers, black diamond lightweight drive shaft, 10.4 secondary clutch (all this extra stuff i just did havn't tried it yet) and also i took all of the padding and insulation off from inside the sled that was 4 lbs, and if got the THING can. if you put a single pipe on you need to change the helix and weights in your clutch I went to a 38 straight helix and 69.5 gram weights (speedwerx weights and dalton delix). If you have any questions email at hotrodprf@comcast.net
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sledhead699
Member
dont think a Y pipe would help the M7 at all i know it will yelp on the bigger bore sled M1000. gust dont think you will see or feel a diference.
most people ive heard say stay away from y-pipe on m7, especially at higher elevations. i'd go with the RKT head, he can set u up with domes that will work at your elevation on pump gas or you can go the route i did and have him cut your stock head, the m7 is real soft on the bottom end and the head gives it a bit more snap on bottom. as for pipe id stick with the stocker, aftermarket singles dont have enough gains to be worth the money and the twins do produce more power but are harder to get tuned and are more tempermental. i tried the jaws twins last year and i wasted amny days tryin to get them tuned but never could get it to run decent so i sold them and went back to stock. then clutch it and get some vents and call it good.
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05M7
Well-known member
The real Deal IMO
Speedwerx doesnt make a y-pipe for the 700s, i talked to some reps from speedwerx for a while asking them ?s about 700s and the things they made for them, i told them i was looking for a y-pipe for a 700 (cause thats what i saw made the biggest ganes on the 800 and 1000 so common sense told me that it would on the 700 too) they in turn told me "we dont make a ypipe for the M7 or F7 because during our testing, in real world condition we didint see a HP gain big enough for it to help any. in our testing we only saw around a two to three HP gain where other companys claim 8-10 which may be true on a dyno it realy mounts to nothing. We felt it was just a waste of time and money for the consumer (you and me)." They said the best thing they had for my sled at the time was a pipe which would give me 7-9 HP at togwotees elevation and would still run smooth on the flat lands of minnesnowless.
so theres your info on Y-pipe or NOT!
Speedwerx doesnt make a y-pipe for the 700s, i talked to some reps from speedwerx for a while asking them ?s about 700s and the things they made for them, i told them i was looking for a y-pipe for a 700 (cause thats what i saw made the biggest ganes on the 800 and 1000 so common sense told me that it would on the 700 too) they in turn told me "we dont make a ypipe for the M7 or F7 because during our testing, in real world condition we didint see a HP gain big enough for it to help any. in our testing we only saw around a two to three HP gain where other companys claim 8-10 which may be true on a dyno it realy mounts to nothing. We felt it was just a waste of time and money for the consumer (you and me)." They said the best thing they had for my sled at the time was a pipe which would give me 7-9 HP at togwotees elevation and would still run smooth on the flat lands of minnesnowless.
so theres your info on Y-pipe or NOT!
