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Modified F-Bomb Track Mod

MORSNO

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Finished doing my modified F-Bomb track mod today. After reading all the old threads looking for ideas and photo's from other who have done this mod, I decided not to cut all the ends off the paddles. I just used a carpet knife to cut off the ends where I wanted to install the screws. I used black 1" #6 trim screws soaked in WD-40 slightly countersunk to help hide them. I did it this way to keep most of the track at 2.4" and to keep the screws from tearing up my trailer deck and garage floor.

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So whats the point of doing that to the track?
To keep the lugs from folding over?
or to use the screws as a traction device?
 
So whats the point of doing that to the track?
To keep the lugs from folding over?
or to use the screws as a traction device?

The screws are to keep the paddles from folding over. The Polaris 5.0 track is notorious for being very soft, so I did it to get better hookup without having to buy a new track.
 
I did it to my d8 163 last year and it made a huge difference. It does tend to trench more in the powder but when you hit hard pack you are able to hook up and keep going. I really noticed a difference when side hilling. My dragon tended to want to spin out (don't know how best to explain it) now it will hold a line. FYI keep limiter straps pulled in, at least in the middle position to keep from trenching.
 
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I did it to my d8 163 last year and it made a huge difference. It does tend to trench more in the powder but when you hit hard pack you are able to hook up and keep going. I really noticed a difference when side hilling. My dragon tended to want to spin out (don't know how best to explain it) now it will hold a line. FYI keep limiter straps pulled in, at least in the middle position to keep from trenching.

Did you leave some of the serrated tips on the paddles, or trim them fully off as in the original F-Bomb plan?
 
so basically the idea is to stiffen up the lug with the screw and make it similar to say a camo X?
 
How long do you think it took you, thats a butt load of screws.

It only took about an hour. It would be much quicker if you cut all the nubs off like F-Bombs original idea. Soaking the screws (246ea) in WD-40 made the installation quick.

so basically the idea is to stiffen up the lug with the screw and make it similar to say a camo X?

I wouldn't go as far as to say it is that stiff, this track is soft and doesn't have that much support in the lugs.
 
I left as much of the tips as i could (i wanted to keep the track height) . The screws still will cut into the trailer if you spin. It definitely stiffens the track. I probably would not put more than 3 screws in each paddle, I think it will help keep it from trenching some. the way morsno did it in his pic's IMO is best.
 
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Looks like a good idea... I see now how you cut it, you just cut a little chunk out where the screw goes. Did you put screws in each paddle? And this may be a dumb question, but why did you soak your screws in wd-40? How do the paddles look now when it sits on the floor? I know the track on mine, folds over when its just sitting on the floor

Let us know how it works!
 
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Looks like a good idea... I see now how you cut it, you just cut a little chunk out where the screw goes. Did you put screws in each paddle? And this may be a dumb question, but why did you soak your screws in wd-40? How do the paddles look now when it sits on the floor? I know the track on mine, folds over when its just sitting on the floor. Let us know how it works!

1. This is F-Bombs Idea. He is the one who originally tried this and reported back to us back in 07/08. I just decided to only cut off some of the nubs or portions of them as needed.

2. I put 2 to 3 screws into every lug depending on lug size.

3. Like F-Bomb said, the WD-40 makes it much easier to cut and install screws into the rubber without deforming the lugs.

4. My track folded over pretty easy before also. This adds firmness, but the lugs can still move back and forth (not enough to just lay over though). I think that if you added longer screws it may not move as much, but then you run the risk of tearing up the lugs. I was amazed that all of the lugs were still in great shape, maybe this is because they were so soft and folded over rather than getting chewed up...especially when running through the trees and brush.
 
So basiaclly all you were wanting to do is to stiffen up the paddles? Because i have read that the full F-Bomb mod helps to evacuate snow better through the tunnel. Would the full f-bomb mod mark up your trailer and floor bad enough to not make it worth it?
 
It also makes the track lighter if screws are not installed. It has been noticed that so much as a 1/2 pound of track weight has made significant difference in performance. Morsno did his mod on the 5.0 which is a little bit different application. IMO on a 5.1 the best thing to do is cut down the 5.1 to 2.1" and call it good.

This will stiffen the track for better hook up, make less rotating mass, less weight, and maybe most of all lower the drag that is made while evacuating snow between the bulkhead and track. another benefit i see on the iq raw chassis is it could stop the track from rubbing on top of the tunnel which is a known problem on the raw chassis. that lowered lug height coul be just enough to keep the track from rubbing on the top of the tunnel which is just eliminating more drag.

all i see is positives which makes this mod a no brainer to me.
 
Track mod

Looks like it added more claws to the Dragon.. it may put a few more scratches on the trailer & garage floor but should really hook up in the snow.
 
So basiaclly all you were wanting to do is to stiffen up the paddles? Because i have read that the full F-Bomb mod helps to evacuate snow better through the tunnel. Would the full f-bomb mod mark up your trailer and floor bad enough to not make it worth it?

Yes, I am wanting to stiffen up the paddles. I'll see what this does for performance (track hook-up, RPM's, etc) first and then cut the rest of the nubs off later if I think it is needed. It will only take about 15-20 minutes to cut them all off.
 
Anyone heard of this new track?

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Apparently the lugs are super stiff on the outside, then softer toward the middle. Supposed to make powder and sidehilling extra awesome, funnels all the snow to the middle and spits it out in a narrow roost like a rain tire on a car. I wonder if you could achieve a similar effect with F-Bomb's idea, concentrate the screws toward the outermost lugs and less in the middle..
 
Those screws that he shows set into the lug and don't really come in contact with the floor or add any bite to your setup. I sink them into the iq raw version 5.1 until it deforms or starts to twist the lug. (ie they are buried inthe lug) The sole purpose is to stiffen the end while leaving the throw at the belt exactly the same. Don't use them on the PRO even though the experts say it's the same track. wha wha what? Experts! Just trim that 5.1 and you are good to go.

Guys note: those that namby pamby the throttle will be getting stuck easier on this mod than stock in deep snow stopped to start...hop on and hammer it (track speed and freed up HP are the magic here)

There is also HUGE performance benefit in weight. Rotating mass is a big player. That new version track is going to have to be radically better in flotation and snow evacuation to make up for the huge weight variance over the 5.1 and then you have to figure in tunnel clearance for wind-age. I personally said no thanks to the offer to run it free of charge. The 5.1 custom is the best track for the money on this sled for what I'm doing daily. Just like last year and all the years prior I am simply standing by waiting for some expert to show up on the hill and PROVE to me there is a better way. It's been a long long wait since 2007! Cut my 5.1 PRO track down without a second thought and low and behold same story. Maybe this will be the year or the new camo will be the magic track? he he he
 
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