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mod turbo help

so I want to make a build a 2011 m8 mod with the following​
C @ A skis
fox shocks
2011 m1000 motor
cutler big bore 1300
twisted turbo
174 inch tunnel CR racing
174 3’’ paddles
boss seat
timber sled suspension
headlight delete
side vents
nose vent
front clutch vent
zbroz 46’’ front end

zbroz shocks
for the power what would I have to reinforce
 
"for the power what would I have to reinforce"

Your shoulder blades and a$$ hole Muscles
 
For the money it will cost you should get into a used 2012 m8 turbo you will be way ahead with a much more advanced chassis. Add some parts to that, it will be cheaper and worth more. Looks like you just put together a bad a$$ list of parts. Forget about the 1300, it will be a maintenance nightmare, the heavy rotating assembly in it will make the sled feel 100 lbs heaver in the front end as well. What was your last mod, turbo sled?
 
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To turbo the 1300, you would have to get some porting done. I read on here about a guy trying it with a twin turbo and he couldn't get it to run right because of the port timing. Brent Linderman has and can do the port work to turbo the 1300, but it will be a LOT more than just putting the turbo on it. Besides, are you trying to kill yourself with that much power? Even a race gas M1000 will scare most people stupid.
 
why do you want the 46" front end along with the 174... you're just begging for a sled that doesn't handle worth a crap. Not picking on the length, but the 46" setup is a trail sled... no reason to spend the $$ on that otherwise. Same goes for the C&A skis, great on the trail, and for snocross, but for what a 174 should be for, I just don't understand the front end idea.


Should be a fun sled otherwise man!!! Btw, boss is out of business, and their last few seats they made were pretty poor quality. perhaps look for an older one.
 
There are some super cheap turbo d m1000's already out there for sale done, just buy one of those and do a d and d 1200 bb on it. I have heard the 1300 is no good. Should be about 350 hp around only 12lbs @10k ft. You were missing a kmod in your list too, add another $2500.
 
Second on the...

1200 set-up. Reliable, easy to tune, longevity is great on the pistons (As long as you use D&D pistons). Never heard any good about the 1300. Also the M8 chassis is a bit lighter(bulkhead), But put the 1000 chassis on a good diet and you will be right there with it.I also agree with backcountry that a 46" front end is too wide for mtn./tree ridin.:face-icon-small-hap
 
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Front end

Stock or Zbroz with the 40" stance and good shocks. Have a sled built just like what you are talking about that was new last year. Used to run a 1200 but now run the 1000 with a bigger turbo and it is more reliable and cheaper to fix if need be (Forged Wisecos only good for a season). So far 1.5 winters with no engine issues. M8 and M1000 chassis are same weight only difference is engine and exhaust. The sled is super fast and with the 3" 174 it goes fast enough in deep snow to hardly even trench compared to lesser powered machines. Tempted to sell it. Have new ideas. CR chassis, only old part re-used was tank, hood and some plastic when I built it last winter. Would consider your HCR as part trade. Guarantee it will be less money than what you are considering doing to yours. Sled has everything in your list except for the 1300 and C&A skis. Has SLPs and also have 1200 kit for it.
 
then what should i do for the front end

Nothing wrong with Zbros if you like their stuff... I'd just stay as narrow as you can. The 174 will limit maneuverability a bit in one axis, the last thing you'd want is to limit it in another axis.

Zbros & BDX both make good arms (and will both be still making arms when you break them, unlike a few others I've bought arms from over the years unfortunately)... IMO the zbros arms are too strong, making it a skidoo situation where a hit can damage the bulkhead instead of the arms. That's just my take though, I'd be curious to hear some more feedback from others that have taken out zbros arms though.
 
i want it for big chutes in the rocks

I wouldn't recommend riding the 174 on rocks, that track just isn't ideal for that :D

"stable" might sound like a good thing, but there is a reason the entire industry is going to more maneuverable sleds... because you can do more with them. doing big climbs you still want the ability to lean the sled to make a turn, where the 46 fights you in this. Also, you may want the sled for that but you WILL ride it otherwise, so having a setup that you don't want to beat yourself in the nuts rather than ride is a factor as well.

I've ridden 46" setups... they're HORRIBLE to ride.
 
I would leave the stock 43" hcr setup on the front end for hillclimbing and try that first. If you want more/less stability after that then order up a different set of arms.
 
with 300 hp+ climbing even with a coupled skid your skis wont be touching so a wider front end will just catch the trees easier on your way up:face-icon-small-win
 
If you want climb chutes, narrow is better. Watched lots of riders with wide sleds catch a rock in a chute and it is not pretty. 40-42 stance is plenty stable especially with a 174 under it. When you are climbing steep the skis are more like wings in the air and wider isnt better. Adjust your skid to keep skis close as possible to ground and you dont need the width. I have a set of new Zbroz 46" arms someone can have cheap cuz I will never use them.
 
I think there...

is a huge difference between the 1000 and 1200 kits. I have built many 1200's since '07 (aspirated with nitros. early and now turbos) and i have to say that the 1200 (custom ported Twisted Turbos top end) I rode the sled all season at 14-15 lbs boost and it just keeps gettin better. the throttle response with the 1200 is Incredible and pulls the 3" track about 10 mph faster on the hill. I've put 2500 miles on a set of D&D pistons, changed them for maint., the old pistons are still in great shape. I have Never had a piston failure on any of my 1000 or 1200 builds n/a or turbo. And you cant go wrong with a 174 X 3'' especially for chute climbing. Good luck with your build, you will be amazed if done correctly.
 
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