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robertyoke
Well-known member
just watchout when you let off the flipper.....the sp green spring is back shifting mo-fo it sent me over the bars the first time i used it in the trees.
good to hear its working, its all in the right set up.
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woodies
Guest
wonder why i'm able to run all that weight, figured i should have had to go lighter? maybe i got some more preformance to gain? or is it because no head shim at 9 lbs boost?
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johnny be bad
Well-known member
Maybe its just a whine comin from the driver!!!! Lol
B
BigFish BC
Well-known member
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woodies
Guest
you win ayou anwsered your own question
more comp more power
cool i love beer
we are unloading this beast at revy in an hour so will update to night. thanks again guys i'm surely going to enjoy it more now!
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woodies
Guest
unreal this sled is on fire now. only pulling 8200 rpm but so much stronger i would leave it be! but i'm not going to, so i'm grinding 2 grams off! man i love the difference, now i can WTO no pop!
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woodies
Guest
was watching the af numbers and still up in the 15's, is a slight popping on long pulls. maybe need to run more octane? mixing 110 at a third.
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robertyoke
Well-known member
you need to get that 15's in the 12's or that poping is gona turn into you crying when it goes boom!
are you lean all the time? crusing on the trail/no boost what is your a/f?
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woodies
Guest
most of the time14 slap the flipper it goes down when back up into 15's even 16's
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robertyoke
Well-known member
14's are too high thats just too lean
i tell you a little story bout my sled. at the start of the season i did some stunt riding...endoed the sled and it landed on my head. along with a broken back....the sled suffered major damage. after fixing the seen damage the sled ran lean.....all the time. under boost it would pop (detonate) and run hotter than normal....lean!
after swaping the mcx box, yamaha ecu, relays, fuel pump, and checking every sensor and wire harness.....no change!!!
then i checked the ignition switch (red button) bypassed it and all was good....there was enough voltage loss to change the fueling to run lean, yet the switch would turn the sled on/off without any problem.
the switch is still working ....to shut the headlight on/off, the sled runs great again. i was always bumping that to kill anyway while boondocking.
not saying that your problem is this switch but i would check it and the key switch....bypass them and see if the a/f changes.
i would also rotate the relays (fan,ign,fuel pump) so that will eliminate a bad relay if its not holding closed.
dont know if this will help.....but i was so frustrated i wanted to sell the sled and i would never had thought that a switch would cause that lean condition...on or off....right?...wrong!
i tell you a little story bout my sled. at the start of the season i did some stunt riding...endoed the sled and it landed on my head. along with a broken back....the sled suffered major damage. after fixing the seen damage the sled ran lean.....all the time. under boost it would pop (detonate) and run hotter than normal....lean!
after swaping the mcx box, yamaha ecu, relays, fuel pump, and checking every sensor and wire harness.....no change!!!
then i checked the ignition switch (red button) bypassed it and all was good....there was enough voltage loss to change the fueling to run lean, yet the switch would turn the sled on/off without any problem.
the switch is still working ....to shut the headlight on/off, the sled runs great again. i was always bumping that to kill anyway while boondocking.
not saying that your problem is this switch but i would check it and the key switch....bypass them and see if the a/f changes.
i would also rotate the relays (fan,ign,fuel pump) so that will eliminate a bad relay if its not holding closed.
dont know if this will help.....but i was so frustrated i wanted to sell the sled and i would never had thought that a switch would cause that lean condition...on or off....right?...wrong!
on my mcx kit last year, I just put an extra fuel pump and regulator feeding the mcx injectors and left the stock one feeding the stock injectors, then used the regulator to control a/f readings worked great you can dial your fuel in any where you want it.
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woodies
Guest
okay sounds like i got some tinckering! one thing i just realized i never mentioned and not really sure what it is or does. the previous owner said they adjusted the co2 maybe it was settings? something like that anyways? the kill switch button is pulled and sealed on my sled ,so if i check the wires they need to be connected to run or open?
thinking SNOWY1's extra pump can't be a bad idea as i'm sure the stocker was never meant to put out that much fuel either.any chance of pictures or tips?what you used and such.THANKS guys
thinking SNOWY1's extra pump can't be a bad idea as i'm sure the stocker was never meant to put out that much fuel either.any chance of pictures or tips?what you used and such.THANKS guys
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robertyoke
Well-known member
the co setting only changes a very small part of the fueling map....like changing the pilot jet on a carb. to change it you need to ground the green wire by the ecu then go to the diag screen on the display and you can change the co for each cylinder.
i doubt thats your problem though.
the brown wires from the kill switch need to be connected together.
i jumped the wires at the connectors under the hood. i just used a piece of wire with some crimped slide connectors and stuck them in there. the key was harder, since you then have to take a paper clip to jump the starter relay wires to get it started.
sorry no pictures.
i doubt thats your problem though.
the brown wires from the kill switch need to be connected together.
i jumped the wires at the connectors under the hood. i just used a piece of wire with some crimped slide connectors and stuck them in there. the key was harder, since you then have to take a paper clip to jump the starter relay wires to get it started.
sorry no pictures.
