Is anyone making a better header for this? I need one ASAP
Mine has been welded for the last time.
Mine has been welded for the last time.
MCX Nytro header
- Thread starter drinkwyo
- Start date
My first header cracked as well. It was at the three into one area. I'd also be interested in a better replacement header.
also had that problem, put cr tunnel dump on, seems like turbo can move better now. Also running better fuel. hasn't cracked yet, but that doesn't mean it wont. this header has been on 800km. I checked into it a while ago and Excel makes a thicker header and it has better flow, don't know anybody running one though.
Anyone tried anything different yet? My second header broke today after about 1000 miles. I hate to just keep replacing the header knowing that it will eventually break again.
No! I'm not into jumping so it can't be blamed on that! I do have a CR tunnel and don't have a support on the header between the engine and the turbo so I'll be making a support for my next header.
No! I'm not into jumping so it can't be blamed on that! I do have a CR tunnel and don't have a support on the header between the engine and the turbo so I'll be making a support for my next header.
I wonder if one of these flexible braided steel couplings would help eliminate some of the stress on the header (if there was enough room for it). Mine broke where the mcx piece connects to the stock header. There are also cracks at the factory welds at the 3 into 1 areas. I also have the CR tunnel dump kit and wonder if the turbo is not supported as well since I don't have the muffler going out the back. It seems like where the muffler would be bolted to the tunnel would add alot of support to keep the turbo from moving at all.
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1035_1064_1114&products_id=991
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1022_1035_1064_1114&products_id=991
Cracked mine as well, at the connection from 3 into 1, somebody has to have fix out there. Mine totally split, have a 1/4 inch gap between two pieces, will have to put a spool in!!
i started to build a jig for the nitro 3 to 1 pipe but got busy if there is enough interest i will continue the jig need to sell 10 to pay for the jig.
pipe-1.5 x0.080 stainless will add weight price will be around $550 canadian pm me if your interested
pipe-1.5 x0.080 stainless will add weight price will be around $550 canadian pm me if your interested
R
robertyoke
Well-known member
hummm i might be interested in a replacement
Very poor low end response, takes longer to spool up, sometimes will sputter when first hit the throttle and I'd have to really ease into the throttle to get it to go.
Smokie builds some of the best headers out there! Why do you not here of Alpine front mount headers breaking any more? Because he is the man making them now. Get after him to make you a header and your breaking problems should be gone.
Here are some pics of what a guy at a local welding shop said would help. He was able to weld my broken pieces back together, but I don't know how much faith I have that it will hold. There are a few spots on the welds that I can blow air through, so I think I'll have him try to see if he can seal them up better. Another thing to watch for is the chance of a piece of metal breaking on the inside of the welds and going through the turbo. That would not be good!
I appreciate the offer! I think I've found a take off header. Once I get it, I may send it to you and have you beef it up so I'll have it ready when my re-welded one takes a dump.
R
robertyoke
Well-known member
thanks for the offer but its easier to just fire up the mig so i can go this weekend
the thing is that the small holes were by the factory yamaha welds and then the long crack is just out in the middle of untouched metal...so this could crack about any place on the header.
fyi for those who are going to look or think that they have a leak.....get the new gaskets on order so you have them.....the donuts were just about gone on mine @ 1500miles
Smokie will the header just bolt in?? Like will it have the flange on it that bolts to the turbo? I may be intrested if its a complete bolt in.
i would like to include the flange to have a bolt on product (only way to build it) i am still trying to figure out how close the flange location is from one kit to the next?
It sould be all the same because when you put it into a stock tunnel you drill out a rivot hole that is there already for the cross shaft that holds the turbo....so it should be spot on no?
