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*****MCX Nitro Turbo pump *******

Sleds R Fun

Well-known member
Premium Member
May want to check your Turbo pump. Reach down and insure that the oil tank isn't touching and try to turn it. If you can turn it you may have the shear pin broken. If you can't turn it all is well.
 
you should be able to turn it...it threads in. mine was loose and driping oil so i took it off and replaced the o-ring, pin was fine.
 
Robertyoke is right, the oil pump is threaded on to the cover, there's no way to "feel" if it's ok, you must take it off and inspect it to see if it's time to change it.
I've been driving two sesons now and no problem, third is starting soon and my plan is to substitute it when i service the sled when this season ends.
 
It's a return pump. It pulls the oil back from the turbo. If the pin shears the oil will get past the seals in the turbo as it will pressure up, it will smoke and make a mess.
 
T Bird have you priced out that little pump? When I got my kit my pump was machined a tad wrong....the gear was pushing on the end plate when it was tightened up and it ruined it....but MCX covered it but I saw how much the new one was:eek: How much are they over there?
 
Return pump

So what is the price on the pump? I was told if the pump can turn something is wrong. I have checked 5 sleds, 3 return pumps moved and 2 didn't. Does anyone else have an opinion on this issue.
 
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T Bird have you priced out that little pump? When I got my kit my pump was machined a tad wrong....the gear was pushing on the end plate when it was tightened up and it ruined it....but MCX covered it but I saw how much the new one was:eek: How much are they over there?

Sorry, have no clue, haven't heard of any failure other then that the pin can brake after long use.
 
In the process of putting a new kit on right now and the pump does thread into the cover, so that has nothing to do with the pin that drives the pump shaft.
 
pump was like 900 CAD:eek:

Yikes!! Should become a machinist and make some up!! I had to send mine back because the bolt for the banjo fitting was machined crooked it leaked like a sieve!

The main pump body screws into the cover if you can turn it, it just means it hasn't been tightened enough. When installing it you have to use the screws and a screwdriver to torque it up enough. Just did it on a buddy's engine like two hours ago. The only way to check the drive pin is to remove the main body completely. Which I think you would only have to do about every 2000-4000 KM's or every 2nd or 3rd season.
 
Yikes!! Should become a machinist and make some up!! I had to send mine back because the bolt for the banjo fitting was machined crooked it leaked like a sieve!

The main pump body screws into the cover if you can turn it, it just means it hasn't been tightened enough. When installing it you have to use the screws and a screwdriver to torque it up enough. Just did it on a buddy's engine like two hours ago. The only way to check the drive pin is to remove the main body completely. Which I think you would only have to do about every 2000-4000 KM's or every 2nd or 3rd season.

And I would and will check the end play now...or clearance between the cover and rotor...my nut that screws into the crank wasnt machined deeep enough so it put extra load onto the rotor causing lots of scoring....also make sure some good light lube is used for initial start up.
 
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