MATRYX SLP TWIN PIPES

[madmax]

Wrap the pipes, or get them ceramic coated. If they run good hot it's the answer. The expansion chamber in any 2t is important to power. It's quite crazy how much fuel gets blown out and sucked back in from the exhaust.

A single pipe will be easier to keep hot because it has both cylinders dumping heat into it.

Pipes come ceramic costed from slp, just black not silver.

 

[zimm7408]

One other thing I did that I forgot to mention is having the EV relearned.....Burandt recommended this. At the time I as tuning these the mapping was still way off from SLP so I cannot say this helped or hurt at that time.

I had that done. Apparently if you ever touch the EV cable or actuator it is best to have them re learned but for me it made no noticeable difference in performance. its a quick and easy one to rule out!

 

[zimm7408]

Wrap the pipes, or get them ceramic coated. If they run good hot it's the answer. The expansion chamber in any 2t is important to power. It's quite crazy how much fuel gets blown out and sucked back in from the exhaust.

A single pipe will be easier to keep hot because it has both cylinders dumping heat into it.

they come with the black ceramic coating. I just got the new polaris mapping on it for the brake deal and put the new SLP OLtwin2 we'll see what that does. SLP said changes were "mostly" for the brake recall. next I will try wrapping them. I see a lot of guys wrapping just the lower portion though? I'd hate to wrap them all and have them get heat soaked and start losing power on the top end....

 

[browntrout]

Interested in your results. I dropped a screw from my weights last weekend and it ran the best it has yet. I’m going to put the head back on for this weekend and see what happens.


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[zimm7408]

I pulled em off and running the single pipe for now and it runs just fine.... SLP says it's the QD2, they think its geared too low to build heat in the pipes.. maybe I will give it a try but I am worm out trying to get these to work (like some of the folks before me in this thread) Would have been nice to know that was an issue.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I pulled em off and running the single pipe for now and it runs just fine.... SLP says it's the QD2, they think its geared too low to build heat in the pipes.. maybe I will give it a try but I am worm out trying to get these to work (like some of the folks before me in this thread) Would have been nice to know that was an issue.

There’s unfortunately been threads on SW since right when they came out talking about the issues.

@TRS has a fix.

It’s involved and I’m guessing expensive.

 

[Chadly]

There’s unfortunately been threads on SW since right when they came out talking about the issues.

@TRS has a fix.

It’s involved and I’m guessing expensive.

The forum expert has a much easier, cheaper fix. Sell them on Craigslist for $200 amd your sled will run awesome again! ?

 

[zimm7408]

I stole a QD1 from a buddy and dropped it in my sled and it ran a lot better. There is still a midrange flat spot but once the pipes get hot it's gone. Takes a minute or so over 6000 rpm to kick it out. Once you stop for a few minutes you just have to repeat. Definitely something I can live with now.

 

[Matte Murder]

That’s those a holes at SLP still sell this garbage is Pfizer level of crime against humanity. Don’t buy them, send them back, reverse the charges on your credit card.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

I pulled em off and running the single pipe for now and it runs just fine.... SLP says it's the QD2, they think its geared too low to build heat in the pipes.. maybe I will give it a try but I am worm out trying to get these to work (like some of the folks before me in this thread) Would have been nice to know that was an issue.

SLP sells good stuff for the most part and stands behind it, but I don't buy the gearing suggestion at all. If it runs better with higher gearing, it's a clutching issue. The pipes aren't going to run cooler just because of lower gearing. Twin pipes are known for being finicky, and it seems that's the case here. Caveat emptor. That said, I'm curious who's tried TRS's suggestions - if anyone's followed his setup and still been disappointed.

 

[Alload]

Thought I would bring this one back for a moment. I dropped the kit on my '22 Matryx khaos Slash 165 w/ qd2. Did the head, pipes, latest OL flash (one without the brake recall), and Burandts clutching. the clutching more specifically the black and purple spring secondary and standard base weight magnum force weights for the primary with 4 set screws since i am riding between 6 and 9k and the blue and pink primary spring. The thing runs great and pulls insanely hard and spot on around 8500 + -. The issue I have is a bog in the midrange between 5000 and 6000 rpms at a specific throttle position probably around 30%. SO obviously this isn't a huge issue under normal riding conditions in the trees varying the throttle etc or climbing. where is sucks in when I am decending in the deep snow or sidehilling at a constant slower speed and definitely on the 15 mile trail ride in. I feel like it either wants to do 20 miles an hour or 60. Once the power valves open the thing gets going and quick.

Been working with SLP on this and have no complaints w/ the service except the fact that I still have the issue. They are pretty certain it's engine load and/or cold pipe which I don't disagree because when I really rail on it it runs great until a minute later things cool off and it goes back to midrange bog. when I say rail on it I mean multiple hard pulls WOT in a row.

1) tried adding weight to the primary - just takes rpms away at top end. currently at SLPs recommended 65.5g
2) check all spark plug connections
3) new plugs
4) new belt
5) track tension and belt deflection
6) I pulled the head wondering if that was the issue and the stock one did the same so the power domes went back on
7) have tried lots of different helix combos 60, 62, 64 initial and 42 secondary angle
8) recorded engine performance and SLP saw nothing out of the ordinary with fuel pressure or anything on the spreadsheet except cooler pipes
9) had the exhaust valves re learned
10) no exhaust leaks anywhere
11) good fuel with recommended lucas octane boost.
12) had the TPS checked

I'm running out of ideas here! Next thing SLP recommends is going to the QD1 for higher gearing and my other thought was to wrap the pipes (which SLP recommends against). I have seen quite a few folks on here who have done that it just surprises me that some have no issue at all or don't notice this midrange issue as much as I do. Maybe I am being too picky?!

I know I'm commenting on a older post. But ill shed some light for you. I have 2 snow check polaris pro rmk 850 155s 2022. One is bone stock with 2000 hard hard miles no issues. Other is strictly race sled. Bought the SLP stage 3 kit an installed on sled before it's first fire ever. First time out? Practically went over the handle bars from the bog!!! When it doesn't bog? It's a absolute animal! So for 3 long years I have spent thousands an thousands to fix the bog! I have did everything you have done many times! Even changed engines, ECU, ect ect ect!! The last time I have ever spoken to SLP is when they told me to try the Qd1. This is there last resort knowing these pipes don't work!! So I tried it anyways? Again no changes!! So I am one of them idiots that spent thousands chassis something that was never supposed to work! I still race the sled. Bog has gotten better. But bogging don't win races! I have to much time an money to toss this junk out! I hate that I have the love for the sound of twin pipes!! If I could do it all over again!? Stock 850 with a good tune an clutch kit!