2020 Axys.
MATRYX SLP TWIN PIPES
- Thread starter wfieldin
- Start date
Are you trying to show us that the only way you made it up that hill with your SLP twin pipes was by continually poaching a line laid down by a bone stock sled? ???
Not much poaching in that vid. It shows they can work ,if they are setup correctly. Comments from a guy that drives Italian trash doesnt mean much to me!!!
Sounds like an Axts
That’s great there’s a video of one running well on one pull. I could post a bunch of one pull videos lol. Never got a whole day of trouble free performance. Not one. Also that TRS, very well respected guy on SW, has a fairly involved “fix” to get the SLP twins to run right pretty much proves my point.
So Tony got them working !!! Like I said it can be done. And from what I have been told ,SLP tune 3 works on the Matryx. Unfortunately in the early days some guys (MM) did have runability issues. Did other tuners get them figured out? Looks that way. Did they release them to early ? Probably, but hindsight is 20/20. At this time it looks like they have come along way with there tune
Super mellow.
Sheet metal is that sled in your video yours?
No.
I’m in Alaska riding a boost.
Just remarking the “good running sled with twins” is on a mellow slope. Guessing a 155 600 pro would pull the same line.
Zero point zero sleds in Alaska with twin pipes run for long. (Much less run well)
Always a couple sets for sale used cheap.
Thought I would bring this one back for a moment. I dropped the kit on my '22 Matryx khaos Slash 165 w/ qd2. Did the head, pipes, latest OL flash (one without the brake recall), and Burandts clutching. the clutching more specifically the black and purple spring secondary and standard base weight magnum force weights for the primary with 4 set screws since i am riding between 6 and 9k and the blue and pink primary spring. The thing runs great and pulls insanely hard and spot on around 8500 + -. The issue I have is a bog in the midrange between 5000 and 6000 rpms at a specific throttle position probably around 30%. SO obviously this isn't a huge issue under normal riding conditions in the trees varying the throttle etc or climbing. where is sucks in when I am decending in the deep snow or sidehilling at a constant slower speed and definitely on the 15 mile trail ride in. I feel like it either wants to do 20 miles an hour or 60. Once the power valves open the thing gets going and quick.
Been working with SLP on this and have no complaints w/ the service except the fact that I still have the issue. They are pretty certain it's engine load and/or cold pipe which I don't disagree because when I really rail on it it runs great until a minute later things cool off and it goes back to midrange bog. when I say rail on it I mean multiple hard pulls WOT in a row.
1) tried adding weight to the primary - just takes rpms away at top end. currently at SLPs recommended 65.5g
2) check all spark plug connections
3) new plugs
4) new belt
5) track tension and belt deflection
6) I pulled the head wondering if that was the issue and the stock one did the same so the power domes went back on
7) have tried lots of different helix combos 60, 62, 64 initial and 42 secondary angle
8) recorded engine performance and SLP saw nothing out of the ordinary with fuel pressure or anything on the spreadsheet except cooler pipes
9) had the exhaust valves re learned
10) no exhaust leaks anywhere
11) good fuel with recommended lucas octane boost.
12) had the TPS checked
I'm running out of ideas here! Next thing SLP recommends is going to the QD1 for higher gearing and my other thought was to wrap the pipes (which SLP recommends against). I have seen quite a few folks on here who have done that it just surprises me that some have no issue at all or don't notice this midrange issue as much as I do. Maybe I am being too picky?!
Been working with SLP on this and have no complaints w/ the service except the fact that I still have the issue. They are pretty certain it's engine load and/or cold pipe which I don't disagree because when I really rail on it it runs great until a minute later things cool off and it goes back to midrange bog. when I say rail on it I mean multiple hard pulls WOT in a row.
1) tried adding weight to the primary - just takes rpms away at top end. currently at SLPs recommended 65.5g
2) check all spark plug connections
3) new plugs
4) new belt
5) track tension and belt deflection
6) I pulled the head wondering if that was the issue and the stock one did the same so the power domes went back on
7) have tried lots of different helix combos 60, 62, 64 initial and 42 secondary angle
8) recorded engine performance and SLP saw nothing out of the ordinary with fuel pressure or anything on the spreadsheet except cooler pipes
9) had the exhaust valves re learned
10) no exhaust leaks anywhere
11) good fuel with recommended lucas octane boost.
12) had the TPS checked
I'm running out of ideas here! Next thing SLP recommends is going to the QD1 for higher gearing and my other thought was to wrap the pipes (which SLP recommends against). I have seen quite a few folks on here who have done that it just surprises me that some have no issue at all or don't notice this midrange issue as much as I do. Maybe I am being too picky?!
You must not have read the whole thread. The reason you aren't hearing about more issues is because people are embarrassed to admit their sled runs like crap after spending so much money. There were a few people that posted they are garbage and not worth the money. The solution is to put your pipes for sale on Craigslist and put the sled back to stock.
I have them on my 22 Matryx and they are running great with no bog, I ride higher elevation than you, 9K plus. Couple things I did that you have not is I wrapped the pipes to maintain heat and I also relocated the exhaust sensor by adding another bung higher up on the pipe...., this is a TRS recommendation. Not saying this is the cure but might be a help.
yeah I read through it and saw that was mentioned. maybe the solution is a 9r. Seems to run about the same and way less noisy or finicky (at least for the last couple weeks people have had them, I remember the Fusion). don't get me wrong though on the top end they sure are fun which is why I want them to work well.
I might wrap them and see what that does, thanks. I talk to folks all over that have them on axys' and they rip. The only difference I see there is the qd1 though or maybe better mapping on the stock ecu for those ones.
On my axys the bog was very bad with the head on. I’m running them without the head right now same clutching as you but one less screw and the bog is there but a shadow of its former self. Doesn’t pull quite as hard without the head though.
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Hoping someone can get these figured out. Have them on a 21 850 and the sled runs phenomenal. Have the twins, head and running a Kurt’s gear down kit. Wanting to put them on a 9r next year.
I put the stock head back on the other day and the issue was still there so I put it back on.
that is my hesitation gearing mine up. yeah it might put more load on the engine but if people are having success with lower gearing in theory id be throwing more good money after bad. sounds like this could be a mapping deal so I either live with it or sell it all on CL!
Wrap the pipes, or get them ceramic coated. If they run good hot it's the answer. The expansion chamber in any 2t is important to power. It's quite crazy how much fuel gets blown out and sucked back in from the exhaust.
A single pipe will be easier to keep hot because it has both cylinders dumping heat into it.
One other thing I did that I forgot to mention is having the EV relearned.....Burandt recommended this. At the time I as tuning these the mapping was still way off from SLP so I cannot say this helped or hurt at that time.
