Manual tensioner

[tyco72]

Quick question for the guys running the 600 snow pro manual tensioner. Are you guys drilling and tapping the hole into the chaincase?

 

[bigstick]

Take the old tensioner out and put the new one in place and centre punch the hole where the bolt has to go threw and drill it. The case it to thin to tap and u don't need to the new part is threaded. when u put it in place u just need to get some gasket maker that is oil resistant (black stuff) and gob the stuff in there on the back side of the one peace and the case and u are good to go.

 

[mt_archery_guy]

FYI.....The hole you need to drill, is .560" in from the edge of the case. Check out my post on the lower part of this page for more info.

 

[s2h]

Be careful. I have an OSP tensioner and it doesn't fit well on my sled. My case wouldn't leak in the shop but while riding the gear oil would leak out around the block that the manual tensioner bolt threads in to. I took it apart three times and grinded the block down to make it fit. Unfortunately I never did get it to seal again and had to ride my spare sled for the remainder of the trip.

The problem is the grove that is machined in to the threaded block is too shallow and hits the chain case cover keeping the o-ring from sealing properly. Not fun losing two days of riding for something so simple.

S2H

 

[bigstick]

THAKS FOR THE HEADS UP. I have not rode my yet but everything seamed to fit nice when i put it all back together.

 

[tyco72]

Got it in lastnight. I ended up running a oring on the nut side with a flat washer on the jam nut side and black silicone. Hopefully that works for me.

 

[RACINSTATION]

We always tap the case so you have a tighter seal. I also use a brass crush washer on the bolt behind the nut and against the case so it will seal.

 

[bigstick]

Does any one have there solid oil line tight against the bolt coming out of the case?

 

[mt_archery_guy]

Mine was touching the oil line....I did two things. First I loosened the hose clamps at each end. I then twisteded the oil line a little bit away from the bolt, then re-tightened them. Then I took some steel wire around it up to the bracket for the spring on the stock muffler, just enough to hold it in place.