this is on a 11 pro with a silber turbo and running av gas. its been running great all winter long. then i had a fuel leak and ran it out of fuel, ever since then the mag side is running lean at idle and cruise. the afr would read 16 and the egt would be 100-200 degrees hotter on the one cylinder. at wot the readings are normal. i checked the plugs at cruise and the mag side plug was running alot leaner than the pto side. i checked for leaks with starting fluid, no change in readings or idle. i pressurized the system and found no leaks. this is my first fuel injected sled, so i have no idea. is the one injector bad/dirty? fuel filter plugged? throttle plates out of sync? with the green mode on 8 it would idle and cruise around 15. any help is appreciated. thanks
mag cylinder lean at idle and cruise?
- Thread starter k_newman66
- Start date
hey thanks, i just replaced those reeds probably 300 miles ago to. i was hoping i would get to take the throttle bodies/airbox off one more time this year. i think this will make it number 3
i took a look at the reeds and they were fine. any other ideas? thanks
I don't know about polaris but on the cats if you ran them out of fuel the pump would start to lunch the internal gears in the pump. Then the metal flakes off of the pump could end up clogging or partially clogging the injectors. I had a friend that had several burndowns in a row from this before we figured out he had a clogged injector. Worth a look anyway
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
1-test flow your injectors
2-throttle plate not sync(extremely rare)
3-reeds ok?
4-check donut seal at Y pipe(smoke test the complete exhaust)
5-running good at WOT?
if all of those are ok, change your fuel controller, in 90% of the bad running conditions, the fuel box is responsible.....you have to remember, it is virtualy impossible to "realy cruise" those fuel boxes without constantly blipping the throttle, can't be done simply because they have not the capability to "adjust" on a variable air flow in the intake other than very linear and long changes like WOT where the stock ECU is not constantly changing timing (ignition).
Sometime, with cylinder/piston wear on one side, it will run lean on that side no matter what.
attached are a few pics of how you can take care of a lean cylinder condition with our ECU(individual cyl.fuel correction)....i am not attaching the "individual cyl.ignition, trim" function since on a wasted spark setup it is not usefull, but you can also trim ignition by cylinder if you want.
Hope this help you out.
2-throttle plate not sync(extremely rare)
3-reeds ok?
4-check donut seal at Y pipe(smoke test the complete exhaust)
5-running good at WOT?
if all of those are ok, change your fuel controller, in 90% of the bad running conditions, the fuel box is responsible.....you have to remember, it is virtualy impossible to "realy cruise" those fuel boxes without constantly blipping the throttle, can't be done simply because they have not the capability to "adjust" on a variable air flow in the intake other than very linear and long changes like WOT where the stock ECU is not constantly changing timing (ignition).
Sometime, with cylinder/piston wear on one side, it will run lean on that side no matter what.
attached are a few pics of how you can take care of a lean cylinder condition with our ECU(individual cyl.fuel correction)....i am not attaching the "individual cyl.ignition, trim" function since on a wasted spark setup it is not usefull, but you can also trim ignition by cylinder if you want.
Hope this help you out.
pretty cool feature
J
jetski
New member
I've checked everything down to my reeeds and never really found anything...i am new to a turbo pro.. and maybe its just me i think it runs pretty terrible at part throttle, on other posts and stuff guys claim around a 15 afr at part throttle, I've free air call my o2 sensor and i still seem to be getting 17s to 19 at part throttle with the green turned up to 7 or 8 so unless maybe that's just how it is, or is the dobeck box just kind of a hunk for what we are trying to use it for. like why do so many people jump ship to a boost it box.
V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
Of course we have collected all datas from the stock ECU( with some special tools!!)
As soon as you go past 20% throttle and 4000rpm, you should stay around 12.8 down to 12.0 WOT (up to 8500 rpm)..... But this is with timming trim too, you can t achieve long term reliability and optimal performance if you can t trim timming........ If it would be possible, like a bunch of fuel box manufacturer says, don t you think all manufacturers would have that function incorporated in their ECU for extra cost only? It is a must.
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V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
So i was asking about stock form. That is excellent if you can achieve those A/fs with you ecu it sounds like its working good!. But once again in stock form no timing retards no extra fuel box (stock ECU) whats a stock sled run at in the mid range???
the numbers stated below! with or without boost, the air/fuel mixture must stay the same.