M8 turbo hard start

[adam5187]

Have an 2010 M8 BD mini race gas turbo with intercooler and after a hard pull I will shut it off, and it won't start right away. If I let it cool down 5 minutes it starts right up. The EGT's are not going above 1250 and the sled runs good, that is the only issue. Has anyone ran into this, and maybe give me some checks? Thanks

 

[hippieman]

Well it all depends. Do you have an after market feul pump, or do you still have the stalk one?

 

[Ski-Laxn]

What we found on a 05 M7 was the coolant temp sensor would tell the ecu it was hot and would not start. Put a switch in line with the sensor so you can make the ecu think its cold fires right up.

 

[Impatientforsnow]

look up Heat soak under articcat and you will find your problem i have the bypass switch and it works great..
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179929&highlight=cpc

 

[Pure Logic Tuning]

Adam it sounds like the sled is starving for fuel and it only shows up on a long pull not on the short pulls. That is why it shuts off right as you let off the throttle after the long pull. This can be that the sled does not have enough power on a long pull to run the bigger pump or the stock pump could be causing the problem. The heat switch will cause the sled to not start after it quits, but is not causing the sled to quit after the long pull. I think I can give you some leads to figure it out. If you would like give me a shout and we can talk about a fix for the problem. Thanks Travis 801-940-7777

 

[adam5187]

Thanks for the excellent information. The machine is a friends and he is not part of the website so I will pass this on to him with your number and he can figure it out. It only has 200 miles on it and it was dealer installed. I am just helping him out so there are no excuses when he can't cath my dragon

 

[SNOW JW]

You say it is the race gas turbo-Does it have race fuel injector upgrade package as well as the fuel booster board??

What boost is he running??

What is the injector Duty Cycle on the injectors?? The BD box will tell you at what % you are running them at and thus lets you know how much more room you have to go if you have the two stock injectors. DC OUT will be the number.

Feel free to E-mail me with any questions at snowjw3090@yahoo.com

 

[Teth-Air]

I had the same problem with my TM-6. Someone helped me here with good advice so I will pass it on. If you shut off the motor before it idles down low, it can be a bit dry in the cyclinders and is hard to start. If you add a 10K ohm resistor into the yellow temperature sensor wire, it will make the ECU think the motor is cold and will increase the fuel delivery (like choke on carb sleds). This gets it running right away. There is a hole in the bracket that holds the oil tank and a panel mount toggle switch fits perfectly into it. The hard part is getting down to the sensor wiring which is located at the back of the motor on the right side. The wires run in the velcro covered wiring harness.

If you simply open the wiring by unplugging the sensor, it will work but the 10 k ohm is usually enough to stop any error codes from poping up. Simply make a series connection in the yellow wire up to the switch and solder the resistor accross the switch. When closed, the circuit is normal and when open the resistor is in the circuit.

If you get the error code on your gauge, sometimes it is hard to clear even if you plug the sensor back in. Before the resistor, I had to fiddle for 20 minutes with the engine running pig rich. I finally unplugged the other temperature sensor by the ECU to give it another problem and sure enough it gave up on the first error. After replugging everything back in all cleared. I have used this method a couple times.