m8 improvements
- Thread starter diggler
- Start date
Guages and heat
If you ever want to see your gauges while standing, you'd better add some kind of Guage Cage. That releases heat too, which is a necessity.
If you ever want to see your gauges while standing, you'd better add some kind of Guage Cage. That releases heat too, which is a necessity.
Rock rollers. D&D shift assist. Stock skis suck, they track horribly.
Get some good quality nose vents, side vents. You must vent these cats, If not you will have problems. Go do some good up hill pulls and make sure clutch weights are correct. SLP pipe all the way 8 hp and 18lbs lost. No matter what run 91 octane.
Get some good quality nose vents, side vents. You must vent these cats, If not you will have problems. Go do some good up hill pulls and make sure clutch weights are correct. SLP pipe all the way 8 hp and 18lbs lost. No matter what run 91 octane.
thanks for the info guys, how do the tunnel and rails seem to be holding up. what kind of clutch tools am i going to need? any exhaust can recomendations i was thinking either hps or super Q, want to be heard but not obnoxious loud. i know none of them add any power. do you need a fuel programmer with the slp pipe, how bout intake options. are these the same style intakes as the old 06 M7
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No need for programmer with slp pipe. The m sled chassis and track are second to none. Very easy sled to throw around. Just lose those junk skis.
I run a bdx air intake. lost 8 lbs. Just the cheap mods I have suggested drops 30 lbs off you sled. Some people suggest to run a controller with the bdx intake. Not necessary even with the pipe. I run it, and I got my info from Black Diamond X personally. 70 gram weights at over 10,000
I run a bdx air intake. lost 8 lbs. Just the cheap mods I have suggested drops 30 lbs off you sled. Some people suggest to run a controller with the bdx intake. Not necessary even with the pipe. I run it, and I got my info from Black Diamond X personally. 70 gram weights at over 10,000
Look on e-bay for slp pipe kit. You will save a hundo
K
killerrf
Well-known member
still lots of drillin' goin' on in the bakken south of the border?
oh yeah..suppose to pick up even more, about like it was a couple of years ago.
B
BIG JOHNSON
Member
SLP recommends PCV with their pipe kit
dont let them fool you, if your going to run a pipe and an air mod on your 2010 you better add a fuel controler, look on slp web sight they tell you fuel controler required. I would add a light weight can and make sure the weights in your clutch are right and thats about all you need, they run great out of the box thats all I have done to mine exept I used A yellow white spring in my primary for A little lower engagment. I think most of the mods are a waist of money still havent decided on the side vents yet I have 600 miles on my m8 with no side vents with no heat problems, belt looks new. ran the vents on my m1000 still dident get much more than 300 miles on belts sure is nice not having to dick around with a fuel controler all the time. I wouldent fool with the clutching much untill you get 300 miles or so mine kept gaining rpm up to this point.
Im running 70g at 8 to 9000 feet but still think I could go a little heavier.
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shortstop20
Well-known member
Congrats Diggler, can't wait to see how the XP compares to it.
BDX steering anti-slop kit. And BDX shift assist.
There has been a few threads about the 2010 breaking the primary springs, I think they went to the 09 primary spring. But I am not 100% on that.
Arctic Cat HD belly pan protector.
Check out the Diamond Drive bearing failure thread. Change the DD oil often.
Remove the idler wheels that are on the rails about in the middle of the rails. Or add rail stiffeners. Search "bent rails"
Check clutch aligment, belt deflection if your dealer didn't set it.
On the 09's the oil pumps have been known to stick open, causing a bog. Not sure if it is a problem on the 10's, but something to look for. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168851&highlight=sticky+oil+pump
I used 2 small o-rings to tie the linkage together.
I have a 09 M8 and run the Super Q, and really like it. Not sure on the 2010 as far as what cans are working.
You can PM "Free Agent" for any Arctic Cat/Aftermarket parts you need. Great customer service/great prices.
There has been a few threads about the 2010 breaking the primary springs, I think they went to the 09 primary spring. But I am not 100% on that.
Arctic Cat HD belly pan protector.
Check out the Diamond Drive bearing failure thread. Change the DD oil often.
Remove the idler wheels that are on the rails about in the middle of the rails. Or add rail stiffeners. Search "bent rails"
Check clutch aligment, belt deflection if your dealer didn't set it.
On the 09's the oil pumps have been known to stick open, causing a bog. Not sure if it is a problem on the 10's, but something to look for. http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168851&highlight=sticky+oil+pump
I used 2 small o-rings to tie the linkage together.
I have a 09 M8 and run the Super Q, and really like it. Not sure on the 2010 as far as what cans are working.
You can PM "Free Agent" for any Arctic Cat/Aftermarket parts you need. Great customer service/great prices.
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yeah thanks man, cant wait to go pick it up, thanks mmsports, great people to work with. wondering if you could just swap that primary spring out for a good one so i dont have to worry about it. again thanks to mmsports
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shortstop20
Well-known member
Where's that MMSports at Diggler? I searched Google and found one in Michigan, is that the same place?
You driving all the way out there?
You driving all the way out there?
