M7 took a swim
- Thread starter Chapman
- Start date
Yeah he's ok...besides his pride. Sled was in the water for aprrox. 15 minutes.
if its abit of time to get running for any reason then fill the engine up with oil as much as possible.....you can always get rid of it later...and make sure you have lots of wd 40 to spray on the elec connections etc as it drives out the moisture..it drys and dissapears so use lots..you can probably get lots sprayed in mag without taking flywheel off if you think it will need spraying...but it probably will drain ok
easiest way to get most of the water out without pulling a hundred times is, pull the pipe off, pull the hood off, roll sled completely upsidedown and pull the sled over slowly till the water stops comming out (usually only a handfull of times). then roll the sled upright, and it should start on second or third pull. run it till warm. you can over oil it by holding the oil pump wide open, or take the air box off and run some fogging oil in her for extra protection.
worst thing is.... it was hot and went into cold water, it "should" be torn down for bearing checks for galling and water/debris damage. hot things cold instantly usually isnt a good thing. seat will never dry in a million years without lots of help. cover off, squeeze water out and let dry.
get ready for lots of little wierd problems, wiring and connections will start going bad. guages will be junk or act funny, bulbs may all be junk. ALL FLUIDS will need to be changed. some just dry em and ride em but, most find out they have ALOT of issues that never seem to get fixed or stop.
pretty much just ruins the sleds. hate to be the bearer of bad news but it's never good to sink them. yeah they watercross race them and sink all the time but, they are specially prepped and they take almost everything that isnt a necesity off from them.
if he has insurance, turn it in, get a new one and move on. most insurance companies will total anything out that has been sumbmerged. several have rules if the water exceeds the height of the dash or fuse block, they are automatic total losses no matter what. ski
worst thing is.... it was hot and went into cold water, it "should" be torn down for bearing checks for galling and water/debris damage. hot things cold instantly usually isnt a good thing. seat will never dry in a million years without lots of help. cover off, squeeze water out and let dry.
get ready for lots of little wierd problems, wiring and connections will start going bad. guages will be junk or act funny, bulbs may all be junk. ALL FLUIDS will need to be changed. some just dry em and ride em but, most find out they have ALOT of issues that never seem to get fixed or stop.
pretty much just ruins the sleds. hate to be the bearer of bad news but it's never good to sink them. yeah they watercross race them and sink all the time but, they are specially prepped and they take almost everything that isnt a necesity off from them.
if he has insurance, turn it in, get a new one and move on. most insurance companies will total anything out that has been sumbmerged. several have rules if the water exceeds the height of the dash or fuse block, they are automatic total losses no matter what. ski
water damage
I owned a 2002 Polaris 700xc that broke through the ice and spent two days at the bottom of Oneida Lake. With the help of some scuba divers I was able to get the sled to the surface and immediately took it to a dealer. The mechanic drained the cylinders and sprayed oil onto everything. The following morning the sled was started and left to run at idle for an extended period of time. I had to replace the seat and headlight only. The sled ran fine for another six years and approx 3500 miles. The only issue I had was a track driveshaft bearing that needed to be replaced.
I owned a 2002 Polaris 700xc that broke through the ice and spent two days at the bottom of Oneida Lake. With the help of some scuba divers I was able to get the sled to the surface and immediately took it to a dealer. The mechanic drained the cylinders and sprayed oil onto everything. The following morning the sled was started and left to run at idle for an extended period of time. I had to replace the seat and headlight only. The sled ran fine for another six years and approx 3500 miles. The only issue I had was a track driveshaft bearing that needed to be replaced.
If the sled was running some rpm it's possible to have the engine breathe in water, hydraulic, that can split the case, very bad.
if he was able to pull the rope , i doubt that happened, but it did happen to ME!! Back when i was an idiot! Not a good day
Read post #5 !!! We had a buddy that took a Ski-Doo swimming one afternoon. He thought he did all of the correct things to get it back running. That thing haunted him until the day he GAVE IT AWAY !!! >>>>.
Thanks for all the advice guys. I tore into it last night. Pulled the carbs, airbox, drained the gas, oil, pulled it over until no water sprayed out. Put everything back together sprayed some contact cleaner on all the electircal connections and it fired up on the second pull. Let it get warm and fogged the motor. Thing that sucks the most is the sled had a brand new top end on friday and he put it in the lake the very next day.
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Freeride1
Well-known member
It doesn't matter how long it was under in fresh water. It doesn't matter that it was runing when it went in. It is when it comes up then it will corrode with oxyegen in the air in 24 hours.
Pull the pipe and plugs, stand it on the nose and pull it over or spin it over with a strong drill in the primary clutch until it is dried out. Douche the plug holes with WD-40 during the process. It will help get it dried out. Get a bunch of fresh plugs and a little starting fluid, spray a shot of starting fluid down the plug holes, it helps it start the first time a lot when it is still a little wet. I like to leave the plugs finger tight during the process since they will need to be swapped for new ones a few times if you don't get lucky and it makes it pull over easier.
Once it is running tighten the plugs and ride it for 15 minutes. This is important.
Make sure to drain the servo motor, and make sure there is no water in the altitude sensor tube on the ECM. I would reccomend putting anything electronic in front of a heater for a few days like the guages, the ECM, the servo motor....
Spray the connections with WD-40 or Sea Foam Deep Creep. Put the seat in front of the heater for a few days and it will dry out.
Dump the oil in a jug, the water will sit on the bottem, it is easy to seperate and re-use. Watercross sleds have drains on the bottem of the gas tank so they can just dring it off the bottem and get it going with out draining it all.
Dump the fuel and put the can out side on a good cold night. The water will freeze on the bottem and you can pour the good fuel out to re-use. Smash the ice on the bottem and dump the ice out.
Keep the sled in a heated garage until it is dried out.
Or sell it to me cheap.
Pull the pipe and plugs, stand it on the nose and pull it over or spin it over with a strong drill in the primary clutch until it is dried out. Douche the plug holes with WD-40 during the process. It will help get it dried out. Get a bunch of fresh plugs and a little starting fluid, spray a shot of starting fluid down the plug holes, it helps it start the first time a lot when it is still a little wet. I like to leave the plugs finger tight during the process since they will need to be swapped for new ones a few times if you don't get lucky and it makes it pull over easier.
Once it is running tighten the plugs and ride it for 15 minutes. This is important.
Make sure to drain the servo motor, and make sure there is no water in the altitude sensor tube on the ECM. I would reccomend putting anything electronic in front of a heater for a few days like the guages, the ECM, the servo motor....
Spray the connections with WD-40 or Sea Foam Deep Creep. Put the seat in front of the heater for a few days and it will dry out.
Dump the oil in a jug, the water will sit on the bottem, it is easy to seperate and re-use. Watercross sleds have drains on the bottem of the gas tank so they can just dring it off the bottem and get it going with out draining it all.
Dump the fuel and put the can out side on a good cold night. The water will freeze on the bottem and you can pour the good fuel out to re-use. Smash the ice on the bottem and dump the ice out.
Keep the sled in a heated garage until it is dried out.
Or sell it to me cheap.
Thats still on the list of things to do. Need to grease all the fittings yet and replace/repack bearings.
D
DVarmit
ACCOUNT CLOSED
I use the flush and it works pretty well getting the grime out.. have fun.. my son sunk one last weekend so I know what it's like..
sounds like you got a good handle on things...i think the sled will be fine with only a few minor hiccups...lets remember these things get tons of snow melting on them every season so they are somewhat designed for moisture for a good part of the sled
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skimike
Member
I dont think Id get that excited , dry it out if it starts runs and smokes its all good the best thing ti to ride it and keep it warm for long periods. if it starts and doesnt run right then fix the problem, if its under warranty dry it out good and claim you dont know why it stopped running. hasnt anyone ever see water run out the tail pipe of a car , well thats condensation all internal combustion engins do this, jet skis submerge all the time, sleds pretty much run in a wet enviroment anyway. they may not be completley waterproof past 30 ft but you can bet that all parts are water resistant or waterproof for a short dunking.hell it was only under for a few min.
I
IDAHO HOT SHOT
Well-known member
Trust this guy, I learnrd the hard way on the crank. I rolled (yes rolled it) on the lake turning a corner too fast and sank'r good for about 3 hrs. I started it later but did not get it hot enough + it was summer and I just put it away until winter. I lost the crank just into the next winter. Needless to say, I haven't been water skippin since. Dumass!
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DVarmit
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Right on! We opened up the oil pump the whole way and ripped her wide open for a while.. With the oil wide open we pushed a pile of oil through just to be safe. Heck, this should be pinned because I know someone else is going to sink a sled and wonder what he/she should do to get her cleaned up good and proper..
Drain the Servo
My dad sunk his 06 M7 last year. We drained it dried it and ran it. Thought everythink was ok. A few weeks later it started flashing the code for the servo. My dad took it to the shop. They said the cables were out of wack. Seemed to fix the problem. Well this year, the servo wasn't working. I took it in and they were able to revive it. It was rusty and gummed up. I tried to put it back on the sled today. I worked once and then nothing. So im not sure whats up. If anyone has any suggestions for me...feel free. But definatley make sure to open up ur servo and clean and dry it. We found out the hard way.
My dad sunk his 06 M7 last year. We drained it dried it and ran it. Thought everythink was ok. A few weeks later it started flashing the code for the servo. My dad took it to the shop. They said the cables were out of wack. Seemed to fix the problem. Well this year, the servo wasn't working. I took it in and they were able to revive it. It was rusty and gummed up. I tried to put it back on the sled today. I worked once and then nothing. So im not sure whats up. If anyone has any suggestions for me...feel free. But definatley make sure to open up ur servo and clean and dry it. We found out the hard way.
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