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m1000 ?"s

scoop

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I bought a m1000 mid season last year, I didnt see a air pump for the shock in with the tools! (mountian magic) should it have come with one? Just the rear shock is a air shock, the rest are not......How much pressure can the air shock hold? I have no idea what i weigh dressed out but probably 275+! But my susp seemed to not have enough hold to it like I would like it to. I pumped it up past the highest mark, on a riding buddies ac shock pumper, But it didnt help much. Can you revalve/cal these? for my fat azz!....belt life? seems to only be 300 to 400 miles. My mod 1m ran all year on a belt as long as i didnt go top speed on the trail and it was pushing over 200 hp. Riding the m1000 stock is like riding a 700 compaired to the power of the ole 1m, but blows those spendy belts every forth or fifth ride. I see ac still makes a m1000, why wouldnt they fix this problem. I talked to cutlers about it and they claimed even their turbo m8 dont see the belt problems these m1000's do. They were kinda at a loss about it, it sure would be nice to have a, ac fix, for this. This would be a more enjoyable ride w/o having to spend over 150 bucks, for a new belt so often! Would gearing down help? i am slowly getting more venting on it to get some heat out!......All these problems stem around my size, but this is why i bought a m1000. Hope i can get these worked out, cause this sled is a hoot to ride, It made me a whole new rider, I seem to be trying things i never would dream to attempt before. My 1m would whoop its *** on a straight up climb, or a hill race, but the m1000 hangs on to the hills like a mountian goat. You can get on and off the throttle and it comes back on the snow and to life!
 
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Standard M sled do not get the pump only SP or LE

150 PSI is max, set air pressure with the sled supended, no weight on shock

wash new belts in the dishwasher, cleans off the mold release crap

clutch it for your weight, you cant run the same weights as a 175 pound rider

Yes, M8 gears set will help
 
I did the M8 gears with clutching and I torched one belt. However I think it had something to do with a "lucky" stick that went through the belly pan and split my secoundary open. Either way 300 miles seems low.

As the old saying says: Clutching is EVERYTHING.:hail::hail::hail:
 
What m1000 did you buy that has a air (float) shock in the rear but no air shocks on the front. What year is it? have you checked the alignment on the clutches or do you have any vents to help cool stuff down. Something is wrong if your kk will whoop your 1000 in a deep snow hill climb.
 
m1000

try to break the belt in
put the new belt ride it on the trail for about 20 miles
before you start climb hills
I have 09 M1000 with power comender V and SLP set up
rode 600 miles never changed the belt
best sled I ever ridden ....

I use to own 04 m1 and 04 polaris 800
 
the 2008 std had the coil front shocks with the float rear skid so only one float on the back im having the same issue smoking belts but im getting maybe 100 miles out of them i took the sled to cat and told them to fix it they came back with sled runs great clutches look new B-S but i agree my old 04 kk with the 1010 big bore would ***** slap my m1000 but it would never come close to being as easy on the mountains for handling as the m-sleds first time i took it out i grabbed the bars and used my weight to put it on its side and torpedoed right in the snow
 
M1000

Sounds like you could use more venting and maybe a tweak in clutching.

1 st try the 046 belt or the M8 belt like $80.The 060 belt heats faster and is stickier.
Get some good side vents.
A good Y and can is a must. good for at least 10 HP
then the other is to not over heat your belts if you need to change them out 3-4 times a ride.


Ya it sucks that they do not include a pump in the std models but they are only 20-25 or just get you buds you should only need it to get it dialed then check it at the first of the year. The 2011 std do not have floats.
 
lots of vents, m8 gearing, 046 belt, extra motor mounts( m7 torque stop, a second torque arm and some stm replacement mount for the pto plate,) clutch alignment, when you figure all that out come back for more.

For the skid go up on the mountain ride it for a while to get some snow build up on it, then stop on level ground get off and walk to the back and pick up the suspension. You want to only be able to lift it about 1-2" until it tops out. Don't worry about the psi. On the front shock, get all the weight off the skid (pick it up) then loosen it until the spring is not under load, then tighten until it just barely starts to load the spring and go another 3/8"-5/8" of pre load. this is a good start no matter what and may need a little tweaking. Also I highly recommend a revalve on the skid shocks, for the bigger guys it makes a huge diference.
 
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