M1000 performance question

[rmk01r1der]

Hey i have a 2007 M1000 with a BMP fuel regulator, y pipe, and can. Im just wondering if anyone runs the whole system with the pipe to? Im just in the middle of deciding if i want to buy the pipe or if i want to by the whole slp system. How does the slp y pipe, pipe, and can compare to the BMP setup? Any help would be appreciated

 

[JHG]

The BMP pipe works well, my riding buddy ran it last year w/ Dakota ported jugs and it ran really well. He had the speedwerxs can instead of the BMP can though. This was the setup recommended by Jeff at Dakota Performance and said to be good for around 219hp if you put any stock in dyno #'s.

 

[rmk01r1der]

Thanks for the info Do i have to do any clutching or anything or can i just bolt that pipe on and be good to go?

 

[XFIRE800]

You would need a fuel control box like attitude, PCIII, Boondocker box etc. to add fuel.

 

[Klimbing Kitty]

The BMP pipe works well, my riding buddy ran it last year w/ Dakota ported jugs and it ran really well. He had the speedwerxs can instead of the BMP can though. This was the setup recommended by Jeff at Dakota Performance and said to be good for around 219hp if you put any stock in dyno #'s.

not really an m1000 though, more like a big bore

 

[rmk01r1der]

KK. what brands have you heard the best feed back on? or do you basically get what you pay for? sorry for all the questions but im trying to get my sled set for this winter and finding out what i have to all buy for this setup

 

[smoothdawg]

If you run a complete exhaust setup you'll need a fuel controller for sure. Don't even risk it without one. You will have to do clutching as well. If you are going to do just a pipe kit with no other mods the SLP "kit" is the way to go. If you are going to do a head, air box, and porting then Speedwerx is a better choice. Hearing good things about the Power Commander pre programmed by SLP for there pipe/air box, and clutching kit.

 

[Klimbing Kitty]

KK. what brands have you heard the best feed back on? or do you basically get what you pay for? sorry for all the questions but im trying to get my sled set for this winter and finding out what i have to all buy for this setup

On my old 2007 and my brothers 2008 M1000's we ran SLP Y, Pipe, and Can. In my opinion you run the complete package of whatever brand you choose as they are ment to be run this way. Like all the others are telling you on a 1000 if you run an aftermarket pipe you must run a BD box or some other type of fuel controller. With that said you will want to have some EGT's and an A/F Gauge especially if you are learning how to tune a modded out sled. Not a must but the life span of your engine will be largely increased if you pay attention 2 your gauges. My 2009 M1000 is a complete D&D setup from Y to the can, with a big bore. If you deside to run with an SLP setup PM me and I will give you some good numbers to start with, after that every sled needs to be tweeked up or down a bit .

 

[Blue Light]

I don't know if anyone will believe this...but myself and 2 buddies all had bought M1000's and modded them all the same with the exception of the pipes. Each of us bought complete exhaust systems. I ran SLP while the others ran D&D and Speedwerx. All the sleds ran really well and were pretty even. My SLP set-up had a weld break in the expansion chamber, so for a while I ran it with just the SLP Y and can and the stock pipe. I noticed no seat of the pants difference. My buddies with the other pipes tried the same thing, we ran against each other with full system and just Y etc. Other than the weight savings from the aftermarket pipe we saw no real advantage (no dyno). Our personal belief is that the power or most of it is in the Y. I now ride a T-Nytro but have an M1000 for my kid...we'll just be doing a Y pipe and a can for a total of $280.00. Quite a saving over a full system.

Food for thought.

BL

 

[minet]

dynotech ran alot of pipes against each other on the 1000,

all were very close withen 2 or 3 hp. think it was , D&D,SW,BMP , anyhow,, yes at final rpm all were close , but the curves were different ,, sw came up faster and leveled out , where D&D was more gradual then peaked
the bmp can was the only one to not lose hp, but that was on the bmp full sys, others lost a couple

another thought i wanted to mention , sometimes your seat of the pants can tell you that your going faster,, when your not , and sometimes it can tell you your going slower when your really going faster,... power band and how it works with the clutching ect

 

[JHG]

I don't know if anyone will believe this...but myself and 2 buddies all had bought M1000's and modded them all the same with the exception of the pipes. Each of us bought complete exhaust systems. I ran SLP while the others ran D&D and Speedwerx. All the sleds ran really well and were pretty even. My SLP set-up had a weld break in the expansion chamber, so for a while I ran it with just the SLP Y and can and the stock pipe. I noticed no seat of the pants difference. My buddies with the other pipes tried the same thing, we ran against each other with full system and just Y etc. Other than the weight savings from the aftermarket pipe we saw no real advantage (no dyno). Our personal belief is that the power or most of it is in the Y. I now ride a T-Nytro but have an M1000 for my kid...we'll just be doing a Y pipe and a can for a total of $280.00. Quite a saving over a full system.

Food for thought.

BL

I've seen this same thing last year when testing setups on the grass. Last year I ran the SLP pipe set and recorded the time on five different runs. I then switched back the stock pipe and did the same. I ran faster each time on the stock pipe. The aftermarket Y-pipe did make a difference and always out performed the stock y-pipe. I adjusted clutching on the SLP pipe and could never get it to run as well as the stock pipe. After porting, the opposite was true. Same testing, but the SLP pipe noticeably out performed the stock pipe. It seems that just throwing a aftermarket single pipe on a otherwise stock sled doesn't make much difference. I think you need the pipe if you are going to change the airbox, port it or do some other motor magic but to just run the single seems to be a waste of money imo. Changes to the track, suspension, or on the 07 M1000, a 3 post primary may be a better option. Just my thoughts and experience, I'm sure some will disagree but I think a lot of the "seat of the pants" results are the placebo effect of knowing you added the pipe.

 

[Blue Light]

Just wanted to add that my old M1000 with BD box, SLP Intake, Y pipe, can and 174 would run with TM8's on 10#'s...if they wanted to they could just barely beat me, but not by much and many times not at all. Granted, they might not have been running perfectly, but it happened many times with different kits and people. My experience is that it takes a T-four stroke to really work a good running M1000 and the M1000 is still no slouch. Great sled that mods cheap and easy.

BL

 

[JHG]

Bluelight, What elevation are you riding?

 

[rmk01r1der]

Thanks for all the feed back. Going back to the clutching option, i still have the 4 post on mine. Would the most cost effect mod on my sled be switching to the 3 post and a clutch kit? What different clutch kits have people tried on this sled and witch ones work? Thanks

 

[smoothdawg]

I am running the 4 post on my 07 1000 with no trouble. I had it balanced and shimmed by SLP however. Running the SLP MTX weights.

 

[Blue Light]

I ride 3-7K with most the riding at 5+. Oh yeah...clutching too regarding my above post.

 

[Qreiff]

I run a 07' m1000 still with a 4 post (cuz' I believe in 4 weights doing the work of 3) with Supreme Tool billet spider and cover and zero issues @ 2117 miles........all working perfectly!

PM for info.

Q

 

[WyoBoy1000]

09 m1000 full slp worked the best just didn't have as much pull with stock pipe but I run over 50psi fuel pressure and a bdx intake. A friend has the same sled with y and can and weighs 50lbs less than me and Mine walks on his. I am still working on clutching, slps set up works well and is prob the easiest. You should get egts, a rebuild cost a lot more. Even with a y and can on my 09 I was having to run 56psi to keep the egts down without the bd box. I am looking for a 4 post m1 clutch to test with if someone has one for the right price let me know.