M1000 on bumped out trails...

[anziconda]

I'm riding a 08 M1000 162" sno-pro and the thing is beating my a-- on the trails. I tried the Geo mod and it helped a little, but still is a handfull. The mod didn't seem to help the weight transfer much at all, so I'm thinking about going back to stock and maybe sucking in the limiter a bit (it seems to push out on the corners very badly). Also was wondering about the front shock on the rear suspension adjustment. I haven't messed with this at all and was wondering the characteristics of tightening/loosing the spring tension. I know its a mountain machine and its never going to be a caddilac on the trails, but any help to get some controll would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[speeddemon]

try out ZBROZ rear shock i have heard great things about it ! i will be doing one myself !!! call fastrax - 253-848-0908
mike

 

[sledhed88]

I stiffened my front shock, rfear is at 125psi. Loosen limiter all the way, best i have found. Handles like a typical cat

 

[WyoBoy1000]

you need to play with it, I have very little pressure on the front skis, mine has the springs so I don't know the air pressure to run but i loosened my front springs until they were free then tightened them about a quarter of the difference( pretty soft up front). Let the limiter all the way out but you don't want to much pressure on the front track spring, I put just enough pressure on the forward skid spring that it will hold me up for the most part while on the sled, but loose enough that with any bump it gives, then at the rear do about the same thing.

 

[dogtownbutcher]

I'm riding a 08 M1000 162" sno-pro and the thing is beating my a-- on the trails. I tried the Geo mod and it helped a little, but still is a handfull. The mod didn't seem to help the weight transfer much at all, so I'm thinking about going back to stock and maybe sucking in the limiter a bit (it seems to push out on the corners very badly). Also was wondering about the front shock on the rear suspension adjustment. I haven't messed with this at all and was wondering the characteristics of tightening/loosing the spring tension. I know its a mountain machine and its never going to be a caddilac on the trails, but any help to get some controll would be greatly appreciated!!!

buy a trail sled

 

[arcticridr]

buy a trail sled

Thats the problem we all face with the long tracks ie 162/174 remember when a 136 was waaaaayyyyy long never thought we would see anything longer lol trade off for ridin the steep and deep. I just stand up and go like he!! !!!!!!! Kinda like a one car train versus a 50 car train on a sharp corner ,one car
is their and gone,50 car is their for a while!!!

 

[JHG]

If it's the trail at Buck Creek you're talking about I'm not sure anything will help. That trail is brutal right now.

 

[speeddemon]

i will agree on the softer front shock but not letting out the limiter straps ! if u let them out u will only pull wheelies and have loose steering ! and once let out u loose ur aproach angle ! what good is that ? and as far as the rear goes not much u can do with the stock stuff but revalve it for ur weight like i did (unless u run floats )and make it so it dosnt bottom out on every bump ! like i said call curt at fastrax or click on there website on my sig !
just my .03
mike

 

[Going West]

Any one finding the 09 m10 has an excessive amount of ski pressure. I have a set of Powder Pros on mine and the force need to streer it on the trails is almost retarded. The snow was quite heavy but i never experienced any thing like this with my 900.
Are the PP just too agressive for the M series

 

[WyoBoy1000]

letting out limiter with proper spring pressure gives you more usable travel. I don't set mine up like a teeter toter, i just want the front of the track to come in contact with the ground as soon as possible so i can get every bit of shock absorption. like I said set the spring/shock on the front of the skid to where it will hold up your weight sitting still, but set it so that any more weight will easily compress the shock, for instance if the front of the skid rolled over a hump it would put more of the sleds weight on that shock and compress the spring, almost leaving the front and rear of the sled still in contact with the ground. pulling up the limiter only puts more weight on the front and limits the amount of shock absorption, I balanced all three shocks to equalize the terrain. You can keep it from lifting the skis by raising the air pressure in the rear. I also run gen II skis that grip the trail like no other, might be why I can set up my suspension this way and pull away from my friend on the trail or maybe its just a personal preference but it makes sense to me. good luck on a smooth ride.

 

[mrquick68]

For around $150 Holz will revalve both your rear shocks and add a multi spring pack to your front skid shock. My sled does much better everywhere now. Best bang for the buck by far.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

For around $150 Holz will revalve both your rear shocks and add a multi spring pack to your front skid shock. My sled does much better everywhere now. Best bang for the buck by far.

Do you think it helped your climbing ability.

 

[mrquick68]

yes i do... sending my front floats into them this week too.

 

[Killerk]

I have noticed the same thing on my m1000.
IMO the biggest factor is the agressive rebound damping... The shocks rebound very slow and don't react quick enough on the trail.
I think that revalving will be your best bet for this problem.
The front shock on the skid has a very weak spring... I have mine as tight as it will go and it still sags under the sleds own weight... I noticed very little diference when I tightened the spring and it seemed to go the same in the powder.
I have been experimenting with the rear suspension mounting holes and so far I like the front scissor dropped into the lower hole for ski pressure and weight transfer but it seemed to trench worse this way.
Last weekend I droped the rear as well, so the rear skid has been moved to the lower holes both front and back.
It worked really well this way but is slightly more tippy as well as takes more steering effort. Plus the snow was not fluffy... It was untracked, but heavier snow... I have a feeling that the stock posistion is going to be the best compromise... I am going to try it one more time as it is in some dry powder.
Rear shock air pressure makes a HUGE difference in how the sled floats and rides.
I really like the rear shock at 90psi, but when the skid gets loaded with snow it sags too much, so I am closer to 100psi now which works good but is stiff at times.
I weigh about 200lbs.

 

[mrquick68]

I have noticed the same thing on my m1000.
IMO the biggest factor is the agressive rebound damping... The shocks rebound very slow and don't react quick enough on the trail.
I think that revalving will be your best bet for this problem.
The front shock on the skid has a very weak spring... I have mine as tight as it will go and it still sags under the sleds own weight... I noticed very little diference when I tightened the spring and it seemed to go the same in the powder.
I have been experimenting with the rear suspension mounting holes and so far I like the front scissor dropped into the lower hole for ski pressure and weight transfer but it seemed to trench worse this way.
Last weekend I droped the rear as well, so the rear skid has been moved to the lower holes both front and back.
It worked really well this way but is slightly more tippy as well as takes more steering effort. Plus the snow was not fluffy... It was untracked, but heavier snow... I have a feeling that the stock posistion is going to be the best compromise... I am going to try it one more time as it is in some dry powder.
Rear shock air pressure makes a HUGE difference in how the sled floats and rides.
I really like the rear shock at 90psi, but when the skid gets loaded with snow it sags too much, so I am closer to 100psi now which works good but is stiff at times.
I weigh about 200lbs.

exactly - the valving in both shocks is garbage. The front skid springs are also replaced by Holz and make a big difference in the sled not sacking out under its own weight.

the stock geometry is best, just needs some valving changes and stiffer front spring.

 

[anziconda]

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to try out a few things one at a time and I'll keep posting on what I feel has helped out. A buddy of mine just took his rear shock to someone to revalve...I'll be interested to hear what he thinks about it.

 

[anziconda]

If it's the trail at Buck Creek you're talking about I'm not sure anything will help. That trail is brutal right now.

Yeah, that is what did it. I know the trail is brutal, but it seems to get to almost any good riding area around here there is at least 2 miles of that to get to the good stuff

 

[mmsports]

Z bros

Put a Z bros shock kit on it and you will love it.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Road my 09 m10 162 for the first time today and would rather have my heavy 07 springs and shocks under it, these stock shocks and springs suck, can't figure out why they come like this when its so easy to do it right the first time. cranked the front skid spring all the way and ran a 150psi to keep it from bottoming out but it was not forgiving, I'll be hurting tomorrow. and no I wont trade for a 07 I'll get it corrected by holz