M1000 High Idle

[Snofreak3]

So I just bought an 2007 M1000 back in June (yeah i'm one of those guys. I got into sledding a few years ago, then spent 2 years in Hungary came back and bought my M1000. My brother and cousins have been big into for years so I don't know all the ins and outs especially when it comes to engines and components.

So I got a question or 2.

When I start it up, it will puke and sometimes dies and one pull later, it fires right up, or initially i just give it some throttle and it will idle consistently. BUT it idles at about 1900 to 2100. Its stock, stock pipe, no control box. It seems to be running lean, could that happen because the fuel pump is weak in the M1000s? (thats what ive heard) If so...

I've got a chance to buy a little setup, BMP fuel control/pump assy, D&D Y-pipe, and CPC can. Whole package $150 (maybe less).

Would that BMP fuel control solve that issue and with the Y-pipe and stinger would I need a control box. The guy I'd buy it from says no.

Whats the consensus? Would that solve the High Idle? Box? No box?

That was a big thread but I'd really appreciate some help with this. Thanks.

 

[av8er]

stock 07 m1000 should idle at 1700 rpm

I think you can adjust the idle on your sled, but if u go y-pipe and can, and or pipe u will want a fuel controller to compensate for the lean condition from the y-pipe at lower elevations, If you ride lower than 6000 you will want the controller for sure

 

[backcountryislife]

Leave it there... there's a reason the last owner put it at 1900-2k.


The vibrations are MUCH lower at the RPM, and it tends to avoid loading up a bit less when you've got the RPM up a bit like that as well.

Imagine parking on a cornice, going to spot your drop you hop off the sled for a couple seconds, and when you go to hammer it... it bogs. That is avoided when you idle up a tad.

There is no negative that I can think of other than wasting gas (if that's an issue... you're letting it idle too long!!) to a higher idle. Reverse works just fine up to 2400ish.


The Bikeman regulator can help if your psi is low, adjusting fuel pressure can do a lot for a sled, but only to a point. If you're doing any mods... just spend a few extra bucks to get an EGT, then you know where you're at & have a much better idea if you're on the edge or not.

With those mods, and a fuel reg, odds are good you'll be ok... but there's NO guarantees, you need to check plugs a few times, makes sure that a good EGT reading corresponds with a good plug reading.

 

[Hardass]

On the staring and dying thing that is very common when first started so don't let that bother you.

 

[kllongbrake]

On the staring and dying thing that is very common when first started so don't let that bother you.

X2---Both mine do it after sitting for a few days and sometimes when it's really cold.

 

[diggerdown]

Like BC said, leave it at a fast idle. Beats the crap out of your clutches with a low idle and the engines want to load up when idling slow. Add the fuel controller and egt's with pipe mods and you will be very happy with it.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

If you mod it, get egts. They will save you a lot of money.

 

[Snofreak3]

Thanks for the help. I did some chatting with my brother and cousins. They said it sounds like the guy was trying to find every way to regulate his fuel without buying a control box. So I just bought the can. I talked to the guys at CPC here in town, and they said a control box isn't necessary but said something about an air intake. And I do have an aftermarket intake, i've looked for a label on it but i cant find it, its bright lime green with a frog skinz. I knew the Y-pipe would put me at high risk, so i just went with the can but with that intake, I should be fine shouldn't I (without a control box)?