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m1000 crank rebuild

D

doudea

Well-known member
Had the crank go out on my m1000, looks like the p.t.o. side is toast. Looking for options on getting a remanufactured one, or other suggestions?
Thanks,
Doug
 
I Got a reman from AC special services for $700, through the dealer. I looked into having one bearing fixed and seals put on and it would have been more. The bearings are $208. a piece.
 
I lost mine on my 07 1000 last year. also my buddy lost his on his 08 this year. both with about 2500 miles and both were the pto side rod bearing. no oil in the case on either motor they were dry I have herd about alot of 1000 loosing the crank always a rod bearing and most of the time its the pto side I think cat has oiling problam in the case. I got a rebuilt crank from cat last year for about $750 through the dealer have not had any more problams. good luck
 
Thanks for the input guys! It was the lower rod bearing that went on the pto side. The piston came apart and it also bent the rod. It was in my 2007 m1000 and had about 1900 miles on it. I sent the crank into speedwerx to get a rebuild on it. They took it apart and said that its going to be cheaper to get a reman from arctic cat. They qouted me 770 for the crank from cat. Was just wondering what other guys were getting for cranks? So Thanks guys! Hope to get back out on the snow before the snow dries up.
 
no oil delete on mine or my buddies but the crank cases on both had very little oil in them when we tore them down. That is hard to beleive for as much oil as the inj. system uses.
 
no oil delete on mine or my buddies but the crank cases on both had very little oil in them when we tore them down. That is hard to beleive for as much oil as the inj. system uses.

ditto to all said above!! lost my pto side lower bearing at 2300mi, 08 bought in 07'


i'm in Grd Jnction, running stock injection 32/1 and cat APV oil.........took out my case, so it was way more than $700
 
I installed the bdx oil delete kit on mine this fall before the season. It had about 700ish miles on it this year with the oil delete kit when it went. I drilled a hole in the top case half into the center water/oil pump shaft cavity, when I installed the oil delete kit. I have a hard time believing that the oil delete kit caused this failure to occur, because in december I installed a set of jaws twin pipes. In the install instruction for the jaws twins it says to add an extra base gasket under the cylinders. So in December when I had the top of the motor off it appeared that the crank was getting an abundance of oil. Both sides of the crank were defiantly wet with oil. I was also pre-mixing at 32:1 with ams oil. So I really don't think that the oil delete kit caused the lower rod bearing failure, but with that said I haven't decided if I’m going to put the stock oil injection back on, still on the fence. Just want rule out that factor? As stated above when I split the cases after the engine granaded, it appeared that the pto side was on the dry side, and the mag side was very wet.
 
I had the oil delete, what where you guys running for pipes (or stock) and fuel controllers. mine was the inner mag crank bearing.
 
Just a thought, everyone fog their engines at end of season?:face-icon-small-dis

Every spring I put up the sleds with a full tank of gas with stabilizer mixed in. Then I fog the engine till it stops running. This season I've been running jaws twins with a boondocker box for fuel correction.
 
my mag rod bearing went at 2100ish, mixing 32:1 (sorry Q, but that's with... gasp... legend!;) ). I've seen enough bearing failures in the cats in stock form to not feel that the delete had anything to do with it.

I also was modded beyond where most would be comfortable without a box, but saw healthy plugs & egt readings. I was lean for some reason at the end.
 
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