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M1000 Ascender

Sounds like you had some fun with clutch tapers!

Walked halfway down the road, turned out when I found out the 800 clutch did not fit. Never retapered or measured the 4S clutch, but the look of it is very similar to the 1000. So my best guess would be on that clutch.
I really like the newer style team with the bearing. I do belive it would do good on the 1000 also. Most likely not the best, but for the majority not having to bother with deflection, it provides more consistent tuning.


Thank you for the info. Will use the 1000 clutch for now. Did you ever get the one you were working on dialed in and finished? Did the D&D pipe work good?

We finally figured what our issue was yes. Pressure tested the engine, and it was leaking alot true the crank case between each side. Turned out previous owner when installing oil delete, had drilled from the crank case into the oilsump in the middle between inner bearings and seals. This lead to cross pulses between cylinders. It did wonder for the bottom end when we closed that up.
Loading it fairly good now, and still hits the rev limiter. Did not do much more testing before season ended.
Both me and the owner has grown abit older since we first started, and life has started taking more of our time, leaving less time for having fun.
 
Sled I am starting with. 1 somewhat worn 18 Mountain Cat 162. Blown new engine. 250 miles and intake not sealed very well. Piston removed itself. Not much left, "good" cylinder is scratched up below ports due to snow ingestion.
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Engine fitted into engine bay. Fits well using Daltech's engine plates. Had to change out jackshaft bearing carrier with older 6 bolt style. Side brace needed a little tweaking and a little grinding on the side of the cylinder but original one fits with enough clearance. Rusty Y-pipe is for test fitting. Have 5 different Ys to choose from. Mounting upside down seems to be what pipe fitment will require. So far the stock Ctec pipe fits but will most likely need a custom pipe to make it work properly for engine. I saw another guy who did an Alpha with a 1000 turbo and he used the Ctec pipe. No idea how well that worked for him. Initially I am just trying to get engine in and moving under its own power and will start tuning from there. Fitted clutches temporarily and to install primary with Ascender side pan you have to remove spring. In future I may compress and lock primary to R&R. Alignment using the Team tool and the one for the Proclimb clutches show it is near perfect. Side panel just clears primary but it does clear. Laying over in snow it definitely will wear in.
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Walked halfway down the road, turned out when I found out the 800 clutch did not fit. Never retapered or measured the 4S clutch, but the look of it is very similar to the 1000. So my best guess would be on that clutch.
I really like the newer style team with the bearing. I do belive it would do good on the 1000 also. Most likely not the best, but for the majority not having to bother with deflection, it provides more consistent tuning.




We finally figured what our issue was yes. Pressure tested the engine, and it was leaking alot true the crank case between each side. Turned out previous owner when installing oil delete, had drilled from the crank case into the oilsump in the middle between inner bearings and seals. This lead to cross pulses between cylinders. It did wonder for the bottom end when we closed that up.
Loading it fairly good now, and still hits the rev limiter. Did not do much more testing before season ended.
Both me and the owner has grown abit older since we first started, and life has started taking more of our time, leaving less time for having fun.
The 2016 M9000 Team clutch would be a direct fit for the 1000 motor, it has the 35mm taper. More expensive than the 2 stroke team. I have three 4 cam primaries and two 3 cam primaries to use up so I don't think I will be doing that soon. The 4 cam ones were only available for 1 year and I found them more reliable than the 3. Rollers on the 3 wear out quicker due to the extra weight being run. Team 3 arm might be better due to the heavier spider and wider weight base.
 
The 2016 M9000 Team clutch would be a direct fit for the 1000 motor, it has the 35mm taper. More expensive than the 2 stroke team. I have three 4 cam primaries and two 3 cam primaries to use up so I don't think I will be doing that soon. The 4 cam ones were only available for 1 year and I found them more reliable than the 3. Rollers on the 3 wear out quicker due to the extra weight being run. Team 3 arm might be better due to the heavier spider and wider weight base.
For some reason I recall seeing a video on facebook of someone trying to put the newer Team 35mm on a M1000 or put the old clutch on the yamaha motor and it wasn't a direct swap. Something about how far the back of the taper casting sticks out from the back of the sheave and it was hitting the motor mount plate. Might have been Kevin Hubbard that posted but I can't remember for sure. I would verify before buying anyhow.
 
For some reason I recall seeing a video on facebook of someone trying to put the newer Team 35mm on a M1000 or put the old clutch on the yamaha motor and it wasn't a direct swap. Something about how far the back of the taper casting sticks out from the back of the sheave and it was hitting the motor mount plate. Might have been Kevin Hubbard that posted but I can't remember for sure. I would verify before buying anyhow.
I would definitely do that but going off pics online of the clutch it has the same extended casting as the M1000 clutch. I don't think I will ever need to go that route with the amount of clutches I have.
 
Awesome project, it looks like that sled has the laydown steering? Do you think the vertical set up would work with the larger engine? Don't see why it wouldn't?
 
Awesome project, it looks like that sled has the laydown steering? Do you think the vertical set up would work with the larger engine? Don't see why it wouldn't?
Actually the laydown gives more room behind the pipe. I need to get the 2012 non snopro coil mount bar as the mount for stock vertical steering post built into the coil bracket is resting against pipe right now. A different pipe setup might solve it too but this one is fitting so well otherwise, I am sticking with it. Other setups I have seen pics of had issues mounting stock powervalves under pipe and mine is good with this setup.
 
Awesome project and progress so far. Got any pictures of how you did the intake?
I should of taken pics but always forget to pick up the phone to take em once I put my head down to work. I trimmed a Proclimb intake off at the throttle body end and used about 1.5 inch of the M1000 boot leaving the curved rubber ends and stretched it over the Proclimb intake and secured it with a few AC bellypan screws. The Ascender intake will not work as it has a stepup in the top surface. It distorted the rubber M boot a bit but once I used the skinny hose clamps to secure it to throttle body there were no air gaps anywhere. Ended up with the right amount of protrusion out the front of the bulkhead for hood to fit and seal properly.
 
Some more pics I found from doing intake and good view of the adapter plate. Progress is coming, re-worked the 2014 hood wiring so LED headlight will work and Proclimb guage fitted to hood. Found why old engine died from snow ingestion as it had a big crack from an impact on lower left corner that was not noticeable till you turned hood upside down. Easy fix with hot staples and JB plastic repair. Refitted all the panels back together properly as there were gaps from poor installation and added a few extra screws to address some other fitment issues. Winter is bringing other delays to this but Christmas is the goal for on snow so lots of time yet. Might even have the Linderman ported top end back and on by then as well. Sending spare top end out this week.

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Looks like that engine belonged there. I'm guessing this is going to be premix so no messing around trying to make a oil tank work?
 
Looks like that engine belonged there. I'm guessing this is going to be premix so no messing around trying to make a oil tank work?
Every M1 I ever had was premix, never had a crank issue yet so going to keep it that way. CTEC end plate for water pump shaft fit perfect for pump removal. Even used one of the CTEC power valve top cap where cable goes in as one of the M1 caps had too much slop for the cable. Was identical.
 
Sled is running and making noise and motion. Working on PCV mapping and a new Y pipe to replace restrictive stock one. Cant buy a new SLP one so modifying one of the pile of D&D ones I already have to work with the pipe placement. Anyone have any SLP 1000 pipe maps for PCV to share? Found a few online. Called SLP and they sent me a file I cant get to open. Anyone know offhand what fuel pressure the CTEC runs at? Is it same or higher than the Suzukis?
 
Sled is running and making noise and motion. Working on PCV mapping and a new Y pipe to replace restrictive stock one. Cant buy a new SLP one so modifying one of the pile of D&D ones I already have to work with the pipe placement. Anyone have any SLP 1000 pipe maps for PCV to share? Found a few online. Called SLP and they sent me a file I cant get to open. Anyone know offhand what fuel pressure the CTEC runs at? Is it same or higher than the Suzukis?
If you get the slp file to open, print it out, then run to the garbage can and throw it in there! There mapping was so far off for mine it would barely run. Racinstation built one for me and it was a lot better than slp, but still wasnt that good. Lots of messing with mine I finally got it spot on. Sadly I sold the sled a while back and don't have a map anymore. Both slp and racinstation were way too rich.
 
The Ctec runs a little higher pressure spec at 58-62 psi. The Suzuki 2 stroke spec is 43-47 psi. So any map you get will be too rich at the higher pressure unless you put a regulator in. Maps for different year 1000 tunes won't be the same to run right either. Had my 2009 M1000 tuned in pretty well with a boondocker box. Dealer updated the ECU mapping to most current (2011) and it didn't run close to the same. Ended up sending the ECU to the race shop to have it flashed back to 2009 specs so we didn't have to retune it.
 
The Ctec runs a little higher pressure spec at 58-62 psi. The Suzuki 2 stroke spec is 43-47 psi. So any map you get will be too rich at the higher pressure unless you put a regulator in. Maps for different year 1000 tunes won't be the same to run right either. Had my 2009 M1000 tuned in pretty well with a boondocker box. Dealer updated the ECU mapping to most current (2011) and it didn't run close to the same. Ended up sending the ECU to the race shop to have it flashed back to 2009 specs so we didn't have to retune it.
I will build a map to compensate for the pressure. The PCV can take fuel away unlike a Boondocker or Attitude box. Will use the wideband PCV module to adjust. Set all values on fuel side to 0 and used a D&D air/fuel map and sled woke right up and will rev past 7000 under load now unlike before where the gas was putting the fire out at 6000. Snow landing in yard this morning might be able to do a few rips on the field to get it closer tonight. Made a new map with big blocks of negatives to try.
 
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