m10 with air shock set up
- Thread starter pylon
- Start date
I have the older M-10 Metric on my 670. If this newer one is anything like the older one. then someone else's setting could be totally wrong for you. The great thing about the M-10 is that is is amazingly tunable. You have to tune it for your weight, how you ride, and what type of ridding you do. It may take a few rides to get it right.
I am in the middle of retuning mine. I have dropped some weight and just that require a readjustment to get the best feel.
I highly recommend that you read the manuel understand it the best. If you don't have one the call them up and talk to them. I would say they are one of the most helpful companies that I have ever called and asked info from. They can send you a manuel for like $10 also.
Good luck
I am in the middle of retuning mine. I have dropped some weight and just that require a readjustment to get the best feel.
I highly recommend that you read the manuel understand it the best. If you don't have one the call them up and talk to them. I would say they are one of the most helpful companies that I have ever called and asked info from. They can send you a manuel for like $10 also.
Good luck
Listen up im only gonna say this once. An M10 is a trail skid and air shox are good for nothing.
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DARKO
Well-known member
LMFAO, and what he fawk are you good for ?
A properly set up M10 will destroy 99% of the joke junk skids on the market.
Honestly, you really dont know one thing about mountain sledding if your sticking to that statement. Hahahahaha, I've read alot of stupid things on this site as of late, but what ya wrote takes the cake !!!!!
Maybe time for a hair cut ? lol
3 cheers for the M-10!
S
STRAYPUSSY
Active member
LMFAO maybe the old mountain magic skid would work better!!!! hey longhair hows the 5 inches of travel treating you on that trail??????
Someday if you ever get smart enuff youll join the program. Oh ya your not allowed to join. LMFAO!
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EricW
Well-known member
Thread Poach:
I have a CR M-10 with the Airwave shock in the front on an 08 D8. I went with a Camo Extreme and 7 tooth drivers at the time of install. The front upper shock mount rubs on the small inside track lugs on the Camo Ext. Anyone changed out this shock for a standard dual or tripple rate coil over, or is there a fix for the mounting location of the front upper mount that won't contact the track lugs.
Poach Over.
I love my M-10 and I only ride the mountains. Its my second one so I must be a real maroon. Bet I'll be even worse off after I get boost here soon. Have a good one. EW
I have a CR M-10 with the Airwave shock in the front on an 08 D8. I went with a Camo Extreme and 7 tooth drivers at the time of install. The front upper shock mount rubs on the small inside track lugs on the Camo Ext. Anyone changed out this shock for a standard dual or tripple rate coil over, or is there a fix for the mounting location of the front upper mount that won't contact the track lugs.
Poach Over.
I love my M-10 and I only ride the mountains. Its my second one so I must be a real maroon. Bet I'll be even worse off after I get boost here soon. Have a good one. EW
P
pylon
Well-known member
went rippin again today and let some air out down around 60 psi in the rear and 30 in the front , worked awsome for rippin around in the medows and the trail up . defentaly takes some getting used to riding on air shocks ,and a skid that hooks up .what does the adjustment on the rear lower shock mount do ? seems like it would stiffen the shock ?
.what does the adjustment on the rear lower shock mount do ? seems like it would stiffen the shock ?
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NM
Well-known member
I run 100 psi in the rear and 60 in the front with a CR 174 skid. It is good on the trail even in huge moguls and works unreal in deep snow, but on hardpack snow if I mash the throttle on a climb it will bottom out the suspension and it won't come back until I let off. The adjustment on the rear arm will fix this if I move it ahead. This skid actually works better then I thought it would...great on the trail, keeps the skis down on climbs and works amazing in the trees.went rippin again today and let some air out down around 60 psi in the rear and 30 in the front , worked awsome for rippin around in the medows and the trail up . defentaly takes some getting used to riding on air shocks ,and a skid that hooks up
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pylon
Well-known member
thanks for the info , upped the shocks to 40 and 80 and seemed to work good , could still wheelie up hill but controled . im not sure if its the simmons gen 2s or the m10 but the bars have a very heavy feel to them, mpre so when cruzin through the trees and the trail up
R
richyrich
Member
With the m-10 you'll get a little heavier front end, just add a touch more right thumb pressure and it goes away. I have 50lbs for the front and 85lbs for the rear. Seems to work good on the trail but will have to add a few more lbs for the rear and along with adjusting the rfa a tad forward and any kind of real climbs.
Good luck.
Good luck.
where did you have to move the block up to ? i was out riding and did a few small drops this week and it was fine . then i did a few small flat landing jumps and it wouldnt come up at all ? i had to get off the sled pick it up and kick the track down
That's what mine did as well. What I found happened was that the C-C between the front and rear shaft was a tad longer than the 28" it was supposed to be. The slider coupling bottoms out a bit to early and the rear scissor kinda "go over the bend" when completely flat, it's actually starting to rotate forward again. You had to help it "over the top".
I cut the slider blocks way short and I'm now messing with alu bricks underneath it trying to get it perfect.
Can anyone follow me here, LOL
Transfer blocks
The plastic blocks inside the slider coupling, the longer they are the sooner it bottoms out. Cut them short enough and it will bottom there just before the suspension itself bottoms out.
My biggest reason is to create more tunability, I want to be able to adjust how far they can slide to have more/less transfer. This way I can have max transfer for boondocking and just enough for climbing.
RS
yeah i got up to the over bend part . i dont get why youre cutting the transfer blocks ? is youre set up on a Cr tunnel as well?
The plastic blocks inside the slider coupling, the longer they are the sooner it bottoms out. Cut them short enough and it will bottom there just before the suspension itself bottoms out.
My biggest reason is to create more tunability, I want to be able to adjust how far they can slide to have more/less transfer. This way I can have max transfer for boondocking and just enough for climbing.
RS
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