I have a 2002 Blade Hylander with no miles on it since it just plows in deep snow and I like powder. Has anyone been successful setting up the M10 suspension for deep powder. Seems to me the problem is a falling rate suspension that only pushes the sled straight ahead and does not transfer the weight properly to raise the front of the sled in deep snow. I've tried contacting FAST and others who work on M10 and have gotten no help. Should I scrap the M10 or what?
M10 Suspension set up for deep powder?
- Thread starter et_6
- Start date
Spent alot of time fitting m10's into different chassis. found the way it's bolted to the tunnel is most important. Not too familiar with the blade chassis, cool looking. I think it has the fast original rails that were made for trail riding. So i'm sure it's your attack angle thats the problem. Too much, so first try pulling up limiter straps in the front to lessen angle. Maybe softening the front shock too. Might put more pressure on skis, but you may need that anyways....hope this help...
I run the M-10 in mine with excellent results. Is your sled a 144x2? If so you're not going to carry the front end like a longer track/more paddle would.
CMX has been running it in their sleds as well. I know nothing about the Blades, but agree that Rowdy1132 is on the right track; pull up the limiters a little bit and don't be overly stiff in the rear. The way that Fast hung that skid in the chassis may be an issue as well. ... Good luck....jmho
CMX has been running it in their sleds as well. I know nothing about the Blades, but agree that Rowdy1132 is on the right track; pull up the limiters a little bit and don't be overly stiff in the rear. The way that Fast hung that skid in the chassis may be an issue as well. ... Good luck....jmho
I have a 151 track and I have the limiters are as tight as I can get them. It made little difference.
Must be the rail design, get some rail made by crazy mtn or tison. Those work really good in powder, but kinda costly. Or a different susp. but then the trial and error starts all over.
First thing to look at would be the transfer blocks. If they are the stock ones that are really large you need to cut them down some to let the skid transfer more. It doesn't take much though.
Pulling the strap in sucks for ride, and no offense, but new rails is kind of an extreme thing to do before trying a few other tricks.
I mounted mine about 1.5" back from stock location, softened up the spring pre-load on the front shock, and shaved about .25" from the transfer blocks, then set my FRA arm pos. kind of high for the big hits and to keep it from squatting too soon. Thing seemed much improved, I thought pulling more from the blocks would improve it more, so I shaved more, then the thing was like a dirtbike front end always up. It was a blast for powerline deep snow small difficult terrain riding, but it sucked everywhere else. It was better overall with only .25" shaved off the blocks.
Pulling the strap in sucks for ride, and no offense, but new rails is kind of an extreme thing to do before trying a few other tricks.
I mounted mine about 1.5" back from stock location, softened up the spring pre-load on the front shock, and shaved about .25" from the transfer blocks, then set my FRA arm pos. kind of high for the big hits and to keep it from squatting too soon. Thing seemed much improved, I thought pulling more from the blocks would improve it more, so I shaved more, then the thing was like a dirtbike front end always up. It was a blast for powerline deep snow small difficult terrain riding, but it sucked everywhere else. It was better overall with only .25" shaved off the blocks.
Yes the rails are extreme, but fast made several different suspensions. and the rail design was significant. So imop that is the place to start. i have tried several setups with these and cut the blocks, which definately does work. but in my experience it helps mostly with transfer, his situation is powder and if he has the original fast rails, they suck in powder, and the blade from what i have read wasn't meant for powder, so the 2 things are working against each other. Anything else i can help you with let me know, cheers...
Is tison still in buisness if so how do you contact them.I have an m10 with tison billet arms and would like to get the rails,but no idea how to get ahold of them.
As far as i know Tison is not in business, i've looked for there website with no luck. Might be able to find used ones, or crazy mtn, i think fast even made some powder rails, not sure. I think Ice age makes some too....good luck...
I have a 700 Hylander from 2002. On the front track shock, remove the spacer/collar and get a longer spring. Helps a great deal. Then shave .25" off the transfer blocks as mentioned. The problem isn't so much in the rear although this will help your transfer problems. The front end is constantly searching for the ground, playing with the front end is the last part of the puzzle. Can't remember what I ended up with as I haven't played with it for a few years. Definately can be made into a fun and capable sled. Goes head to head with 800 rev's and 900 Cat's. I swapped the 144 for a 151 live rear axle. Love the machine. I also have a set of twin pipes from fast for the sled. Still, the best bump sled I've ever ridden and I've had 4 sno-x sleds.
Is tison still in buisness if so how do you contact them.I have an m10 with tison billet arms and would like to get the rails,but no idea how to get ahold of them.
tison used the fast 141 rails, curt at fastrax used to work for tison, he is an m-10 gu-ru and also has the billet tison arms. he also has service books for the blade and also has worked on them, give him a call at 253-848-0908
Thanks to everyone for all the information. Now its decision time. Sell, Modify, or replace.
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