M 1000 clutching woes

[edgey]

I have a 09 m1000 sp 162 with a slp single and pc3 and I have the linderman mag mount and an extra motor mount on the bottom of the motor. For clutching i have speed werex white/red and cat weights and the sec is stock with a shift asst.

The last trip I was riding at 6000' and was running 80g weights and was pulling 7640 on the trail but only 73-7400 on the hill so i switched to 77g weights and only gained 100-150 rpm I thought I would gain more my ? is the shift asst letting the sec shift out to fast and causing problems? My wife's 09 m8 with slp single wouldn't pull the proper rpm untilll I took the shift asst. out of the sec clutch.

Also I was wondering how to keep the sled from blowing belts on the top end with my current setup I have pretty good clutch temps compared to last year when climbing and tree riding, but when I start riding hard on the trail 70+ for a period of time I blow belts. I'm running the 046 and the last one I got about 400 miles out of it. If I hold the sled over 90 its like the belt comes right out of the primary!!!

I have my secondary clutch all the way in with no shims behind the clutch and I have the alingment bar for my year of sled which I belive is 1.65. I know guys are cutting the back of the clutch so they can run 1.53 offset or something close to that how much should I have cut off the back of the clutch and how do I measure the new alingment?

I luv this sled but hate the secondary any help welcome.

 

[kllongbrake]

when I start riding hard on the trail 70+ for a period of time I blow belts. I'm running the 046 and the last one I got about 400 miles out of it. If I hold the sled over 90 its like the belt comes right out of the primary!!!

Dude, it's not a road racer. It's a mountain sled. If you want To keep the belt on the sled use it for what it was designed for. Not being a dick, just saying.

 

[snwman77]

I took it out to Minn. just after new years. I did blow a belt once on the trip that I put on over 400 . but anyway if your sled is not turning the RPMs you want check your fuel maping to make sure your not too lean or rich and check the spark plugs and piston wash.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

The last trip I was riding at 6000' and was running 80g weights and was pulling 7640 on the trail but only 73-7400 on the hill so i switched to 77g weights and only gained 100-150 rpm I thought I would gain more

What did your track speed do? The entire goal of clutching is to get the power to the ground.

At 7640 you are over reving that motor. At 73-7400 you are right in the power range.

You want to through as much weight at is as you can pull at 73-7400. Keep adding weight until it won't hold it. Then drop it just a bit. You can do some of this with the primary spring also.

What are you running for a helix?

Thunder

 

[edgey]

With the slp single I thought you want to be 7600-7800? I have a the stock 36 in it.

Yes I know its a mountain sled but all the other sleds I have owned there was no problem running them at 70+ I hate trail riding so the faster I can be done the better. My wife's m8 has no problem running over 70mph.

 

[killerrf]

when we rode BC elev was probably 6-7k on my 09 m1 i had d&d magnaforce 81-97 gram weights... had to no magnets in so should be 81 gram. d&d yellow primary spring (160-290) and two slick washers under primary spring. im running the same full slp, pc3 and open intake. also have the linderman mount and extra mount under motor.

running 060 belt. had shift assist, one black shim under cat orange spring with straigth 36 helix. im also geared down running 55/65. if a guy didnt give the belt a break it would start getting hot and drag my rpms down to 7400. switched out to a 046 and rpms would hold fairly steady at 7700-7800 rpm.

i have one 0.030" shim with the 060 belt and i put a thick 0.060" (i think thats what it is) with the 046 belt on.

with the 060 belt i was running 7550-7650 rpm when the belt temps were ok. i found that my sled pulled much better at this rpm than 7700+. im really glad i geared down. much better low end drivability in deep snow. better responsivness. thats what i found.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

My 07 would hit 95mph in seconds, slp pipe stock clutching, my 09 wont, anything over 72 and the belt would climb over the primary and boom. The motor is still moving in your sled if its coming out of the primary, add the torque stop another torque arm to the bottom and a stm plate mount that goes between the pto plate and the DD. I am also thinking the shift assist has a neg effect and maybe a 34* helix would be a better match with the assist. The way the m1000 torques the motor you just have to deal with adding to the mounts or your wasting money, it will ruin belts and tear up the mounts you have.

 

[blackie205]

this is a question that i wish some one had a fix for as we all r having the same issues,and we all have the extra mounts updated mounts torque bumper the only thing i dont have is a torque arm i think i will try 2 of these for next year after i replace all the mounts again just wish i could get this thing tunned perfectly i am even considering taking it to edmonton to brent himself after i change all mounts to c if he can fix the problem along with a bit of porting and polishing when it is there or do i just sell and start all over again,just love the torque this thing has

 

[killerrf]

wish cat would have put a m1000 HO.

 

[kllongbrake]

With the slp single I thought you want to be 7600-7800? I have a the stock 36 in it.

Yes I know its a mountain sled but all the other sleds I have owned there was no problem running them at 70+ I hate trail riding so the faster I can be done the better. My wife's m8 has no problem running over 70mph.

I wasn't being a dick I was just breaking your balls about the road racing. I'm not sure how you get the best of both worlds but you are right SLP recommends 7600-7800. I run about the same as you M1000 SLP pipe right around 7600-7680 and I'm very pleased with how it runs. Maybe the guys with proper clutch alignment just need to give their belts a break every so often throughout the day. I like to ride as hard as the next guy ditch banging, boondocking, hillclimbing, powder carving, doesn't really matter, your clutches and your belt need a break. I've never blown a belt on my M1000 and have put over 1100 miles on the same belt this year and have no extra motor mounts so either I got really lucky and got the perfect sled or being nice to my belt pays off.

 

[edgey]

No problem just would like to be able to ride this sled to it's full potetial with out having to worry about the belt.

 

[Ricks 32]

I have an '09 with SLP pipe and PCIII, ride 7k to 10k feet in Idaho. I'm running older 73 gram Cat weights with stock Ti spring (stock on Sno Pro LE) and a 44/36 helix with orange spring. I'm at 7750 to 7800 no matter what the snow conditions are.

I've also put SLP flow-rite vents in the shock tower above the belt guard and another vent from 2coolvents below the belt guard. I have full side vents and I pulled out the plate behind the secondary (mounts to the footwell) and I put 2 smaller SLP flow-rite vents just above the left footwell. This really help the air move through the clutches. All riding is off trail and belt life is between 500 and 600 miles.

Now, if you are racing down a trail, or running wide open across a meadow (in firm snow) your belt will climb the primary and it will blow. I have an extra motor mount and torque stop as well. If you are loading the track and putting all the power/torque of the M1000 to that belt it will come apart. I've never blown a belt pulling hills or breaking trails due to the track doesn't load like it does when you are on a trail. If you watch your EGT's, your sled runs the hottest on a trail or across a flat meadow with firm snow. That's because you have a full load on the motor. The two times I've blown a belt were coming down a meadow after a ride and getting into an old track and hitting the throttle.

I have an M8 too and it's not a belt blower. But it's not putting near the torque to the belt either. Hammer down on the hills and in deep powder. Roll easy on the trail and anywhere where you put a load on track.

 

[Hardass]

I hear people saying the blt will climb up out of the primary is this correct? If your center to center is correct and the proper blt lengths how does this happen?It seems that the primary can only close so far as the secondary can only open so far.Can some one explain this to me?

 

[edgey]

Rick that is how my sled acts never blown a belt boondocken or hill climbing just high speed stuff.

Hard *** I know I don't understand it either but when the belt blows there is black rubber all over the outside of the primary clutch I would like to take my hood off and watch what happens but don't want to wreck my pipe or take my head off when the belt blows.

 

[killerrf]

i was riding the old mans m8 last week due to hitting a rock and bending the aarms on my m1... i came off a drift and as soon as i landed the belt blew and actually flipped inside out. i dont know how the hell it does this.

 

[blackie205]

09 m1000 for sale if anyone wants it