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Low idle on warm restarts...?

800xtreme

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Just curious if this is common or not:

When cold, sled starts just fine - 3rd pull and idles perfect.

After running it hard, letting it sit for just a minute or two, and restarting it - starts on 3rd pull but idles low, guage does not come on. If I let it be for about 15 seconds, idle will pick-up and guage will come on. If I simply burp the throttle it is back to perfect as well.

Besides this, sled runs awesome.

Anyone else have this isssue? My old carbed sleds did the same thing but just thought I should ask.

I will check the TPS and put some deelectical grease in it.
 
I wonder if you get your TPS adjusted if that would help with not having to pull over three times to start the sled. My 2012 takes two pulls first thing in the morning and only one to start the rest of the day... Three seems like to many... Napamatt maybe will chime in again as he understands the TPS setting better than me.. Later
 
My 11 Pro is the same. Two pulls when cold and one the rest of the day. First pull prime , second start. The low idle when warm has happened since new 1160 miles on it now.
 
Seems common. Mine starts 3rd pull cold, 2nd pull warm and every now and then it will start up at 900rpm till I blip the throttle. Seems to happen more often when the snow is deep.
 
WITH the porting and timing change,And looking at the fuel map.
I could see yours running low fuel under 5500rpm.
At 3500 it's removing fuel.
The way it's set up is to stay cleaned out at low idle,And be more responsive in the
Engagement.
as above mentioned blip it !

mine is a two pull fire...
 
mine has worked exactly like that since day one...if the TPS is out of adjustment I'm certainly not messing with it since the sled RUNS REALLY REALLY GOOD.

fire it up...a little throttle blip and then it settles to a good idle with the instrument panel on...

I know that the gauges that I used to run had a minimum idle report meaning they didn't fire up until you got a certain idle pulse going....maybe that is how the POlaris stuff works as well?

Also note: pull your start cord out about a foot or even further from the plastic prior to the real rip...it's bizarre but that makes em start right up v starting your pulling force from the plastic. My guess is the rope is actually tightening when you have quite a bit of cord wrapped v lessoning the resistance by dragging out some and not having it tension bind? ANyway who knows? Net result is they fire up easier if you pull it out a bit prior to ripping away.
 
Let the sled get fully warmed up to operating temps, and or pull over and adjust the idle and throttle slack to get the sled to the correct idle rpm.

That is, if it's not already idling where it should be.

But, even bringing up the idle 100-200 rpm's once warmed up may be worth a shot. Factory tachs have not been worth a crap since they started using them.
 
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