Lords Adhesive Removal

[LPIdaho]

If you are pulling off the quick drive backer plate or anything else that's secured by adhesive what are the correct steps for doing it? Also if you have any tips for adhesive removal and reapplication please share those as well.

Thanks!

*I'm assuming there's a thread or two on this already I just wasn't able to find them*

 

[FCR112]

Here's a start:


BONDED COMPONENT SERVICE

The following serviceable components are bonded with structural adhesive:
•Left/right bulkhead clips are bonded to the left/right support braces
•Left/right support braces are bonded to the tunnel assembly
•Bulkhead floor plate
•Top of front tunnel bulkhead cooler
NOTE: The left and right bulkhead clips are not bonded to each other.
Please read and understand the topics outlined on the following pages before working with any bonded component.
Bonded Component Removal
Breaking the adhesive bond between the before-mentioned components is required whenever performing the following repairs:
•Left or right bulkhead clip removal/replacement
•Left or right engine support side brace removal/replacement
•Front tunnel cooler removal/replacement
In every repair procedure listed, the bulkhead floor plate must be removed. Breaking the bulkhead floor plate bond will render the part unusable. The bulkhead floor plate is considered a sacrificial part and will always be replaced with a new plate whenever removed.
There are two removal methods. The first method does not require the use of the direct application of heat to break the bond. This method only involves removing the bulkhead floor plate and front tunnel bulkhead cooler. This method works because the adhesive has very little resistance to peel force and therefore the two parts can be easily pried/peeled off of the chassis.
The second removal method requires the use of the direct application of heat to release the bond. This method of removal only involves the removal of the bulkhead clip(s) and/or engine support brace(s).
The recommended source of heat is the use of propane gas, and can be obtained at most commercial hardware stores.
NOTE: In all bonded component repair procedures, the engine assembly and bulkhead floor plate are removed from the engine compartment.
Bonded Component Surface Preparation
Bonded components that will be re-used during assembly must be cleaned and free from original adhesive.
Remove adhesive using a putty knife, gasket remover tool, wire brush, etc. and propane gas torch.
Apply heat to adhesive to assist in removal. After all of the residual adhesive is removed, the component mating surface should resemble the example in the photo below.
After removing the adhesive, clean the bonding area with warm, soapy water and allow to dry completely.
NOTE: New bonded parts should be washed with warm, soapy water and allowed to dry completely before the adhesive is applied.

Original adhesive must be removed from bonded components prior to the application of new adhesive.

 

[bossman15]

Used a little blow torch came right off

 

[LPIdaho]

Thanks for the reply! Is this out of the service manual then?

Here's a start:


BONDED COMPONENT SERVICE

The following serviceable components are bonded with structural adhesive:
•Left/right bulkhead clips are bonded to the left/right support braces
•Left/right support braces are bonded to the tunnel assembly
•Bulkhead floor plate
•Top of front tunnel bulkhead cooler
NOTE: The left and right bulkhead clips are not bonded to each other.
Please read and understand the topics outlined on the following pages before working with any bonded component.
Bonded Component Removal
Breaking the adhesive bond between the before-mentioned components is required whenever performing the following repairs:
•Left or right bulkhead clip removal/replacement
•Left or right engine support side brace removal/replacement
•Front tunnel cooler removal/replacement
In every repair procedure listed, the bulkhead floor plate must be removed. Breaking the bulkhead floor plate bond will render the part unusable. The bulkhead floor plate is considered a sacrificial part and will always be replaced with a new plate whenever removed.
There are two removal methods. The first method does not require the use of the direct application of heat to break the bond. This method only involves removing the bulkhead floor plate and front tunnel bulkhead cooler. This method works because the adhesive has very little resistance to peel force and therefore the two parts can be easily pried/peeled off of the chassis.
The second removal method requires the use of the direct application of heat to release the bond. This method of removal only involves the removal of the bulkhead clip(s) and/or engine support brace(s).
The recommended source of heat is the use of propane gas, and can be obtained at most commercial hardware stores.
NOTE: In all bonded component repair procedures, the engine assembly and bulkhead floor plate are removed from the engine compartment.
Bonded Component Surface Preparation
Bonded components that will be re-used during assembly must be cleaned and free from original adhesive.
Remove adhesive using a putty knife, gasket remover tool, wire brush, etc. and propane gas torch.
Apply heat to adhesive to assist in removal. After all of the residual adhesive is removed, the component mating surface should resemble the example in the photo below.
After removing the adhesive, clean the bonding area with warm, soapy water and allow to dry completely.
NOTE: New bonded parts should be washed with warm, soapy water and allowed to dry completely before the adhesive is applied.

Original adhesive must be removed from bonded components prior to the application of new adhesive.

 

[FCR112]

Yeah a little bit of it.
Use heat to get the chunks off with a scraper then I used a metal surface prep disc... which is basically sandpaper, the wire brush was taking too long.
Be careful, Heat may be necessary on the bolt removal, the glue can ooze into the threads and it's easy to strip out those torx heads.

When you re-install have everything ready, plan on 6 minutes before it turns into a rock. One thing to really remember with this is that everything is supposed to be torqued before the glue hardens up. If you wait it can change clearances and fitment. Also suggested cure is 24hrs at like 68 degrees...so ideally keep it warm for a while.



After: