Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

lookn at a 97' cummins, anything i need to know?

ragincajun

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Polaris Blueribbon Coalition
hey guys, im lookin at thing 97 dodge on craigs list. what you guys think? is there anything i should know about these trucks? i know that the 5.9 cummins is just about indestructible other than that i dont know much. can you guys enlighten me? thanks in advance!
here is the link
http://montana.craigslist.org/cto/982149324.html
 
The 97 will have the last of the mechanical pumps, which should be good for 1,000,000 miles. While not quite as easy to mod as the later electronic and common rail units, the 97 can be puffed up somewhat reasonably with timing advance and injectors.

22+ mpg can be had, and reliability is great. Two things you need to Google are "Killer Dowel Pin", and "Cummins 53 block." The blocks with the "53" castings were prone to tiny cracks (and weeps), but can be repaired. The dowel pin problem can be fixed for about $20 and some elbow grease.

TDR (Turbo Diesel Registry) is a stellar forum to get info from.

Dave
 
them are good trucks, only the 98 w/quad and a 12v is better. have a peek on the engine.....pass side right above the oil pan twards the front. look if it has a 53 casting number.........that is the only thing to run from. there are a ton of easy mods to make it rock. the rear brakes are lame o say the least....a pair of $13.00 chevy 1ton wheel cyl's makes it stop mucho better. if 5th gear is sloppy pop it open and be sure the 5th gear nut has the fix. and last but far from least is the KDP. there is a dowel pin on the timing cover that can fall out and land in the timng case wreaking havoc. it is a simple fix.....but IMO must be done.

the truck is a dodge so it is so so, the drive train is tough, excluding the bushings/bearings in the front.....but tough enough. it will prolly need a trac bar. the rest of the d-train is 100% tough. and as far as engines......that is the mecca of reliable horsepower right there. a 215 pump can be in the high 400's in a few hours for a few hundy......not that the clutch will let it go to the ground.
 
yep good trucks man, just watch for those two things, my brothers got one putting down 570 rwhp. and hes got about half the money in his that i have in my lly duramax thats doin bout 600. with a considerable amount of labor an not alot of money a 12v can make some serious power.
 
thats good to hear. what about the chassis? 200k is alot of miles but then again i guess my current truck (95' gmc 1500) has 197k and is still goin strong. the only thing i dont like about it is that it is a gas hog and is gutless when it comes to pulling two sleds. plus the 8 mpg pulling sucks lol
 
53 blocks were 24 valve problems. 02 was a 56 block.as these guys said fix the kdp, add a govenor spring,fuel plate, and injectors and it will pull like a newer truck.other problems to consider is the front ends on these trucks. its about a 1,000 dollar to retrofit some third gen parts,steering gearbox,and a steering pump.power steering services actually mods the gearboxes aswell to make it a 3 turn setup.can't remember if the fifth gear nut was a problem on the late nv4500s.
 
"200k is alot of miles"

this truck even towing heavy would make it 500,000 miles easy.ve pumped 5.9 trucks have surpassed 1 million miles on the same motor. although cummins reccomends the overhauls at 350,000 miles.
 
anyone else got anything i should know? thanks to everyone for the help!
 
the 53 block is typically a 24v problem, but there havebeen a few 53's in the 1v's too and since this was "rebuilt" I thought I would throw it out there. look for it.

when you get it don't go buying a k&n or fancy filter right away. go to napa and grab a 2790 air filter and it will be painfully onvious where it goes once you open the box.

there are ways to mod he gsk w/o buying a kit now. a little bump in the timing and block the gate and grind the plate........after you get some guages on it.they can get down right toasty. diesels are not like gas where the fuel octane limits the boost you can run............there is a lot of boost you can make with diesel.........litteraly hundreds of pounds of boost. (not on a street truck)

I would dang sure get guages and brakes/steering in top shape before you get too caried away. the stock clutch will hold about 300-350 hp......450 will run right through it. 450 cummins horsepower are about like 600 gasoline horsepower in feeling.
 
the 53 block is typically a 24v problem, but there havebeen a few 53's in the 1v's too and since this was "rebuilt" I thought I would throw it out there. look for it.

when you get it don't go buying a k&n or fancy filter right away. go to napa and grab a 2790 air filter and it will be painfully onvious where it goes once you open the box.

there are ways to mod he gsk w/o buying a kit now. a little bump in the timing and block the gate and grind the plate........after you get some guages on it.they can get down right toasty. diesels are not like gas where the fuel octane limits the boost you can run............there is a lot of boost you can make with diesel.........litteraly hundreds of pounds of boost. (not on a street truck)

I would dang sure get guages and brakes/steering in top shape before you get too caried away. the stock clutch will hold about 300-350 hp......450 will run right through it. 450 cummins horsepower are about like 600 gasoline horsepower in feeling.

i know how a hopped up cummins is like. i know a guy with one and holy crap that thing runs! ive been in a 525 horse firebird and it made that thing look like a geometro!
 
"but there havebeen a few 53's in the 1v's too and since this was "rebuilt" I thought I would throw it out there. look for it"

i never said there wasn't any 12 v 53's. just not a problem with them.and I believe 98 was the only year.98 is a bad year for dashboards in the new interior aswell.heres some info on the blocks.

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm
 
Inspect the 2 rubber fuel return lines. The location is on drivers side and under the injector pump, connecting to the fuel lines on the frame. Kind of ***** to get to, but not too bad do it yourself job. My 96 dodge had crusted rubber return lines that ended up leaking. Rubber lines wore out at 170k. Easy cheap fix, but dumped 1/2 a tank on the road before I realized the problem.

Like everybody is saying, fix the KDP. I fixed the KDP by buying the tab and installing over the dowel. Required removing the fan and front timing cover plate. Make sure you get all your motor parts from Cummins and not Dodge. Dodge rapes you on motor parts prices.

Steering is wimpy. If your truck wonders, You can buy lukes link, or a new track bar, and a bar assy that reinforces the steering gear box. My truck had tight steering and 0 wondering after I installed them. (bad dodge design).

Inspect front u-joints. Factory joints do not come with zerts and are good for about 80k (if that). If joints are sloppy, get them replaced ASAP. Replace with U-joints that have Zert fittings so you can maintain them.

Check both front and rear brakes. Dodge eats brakes.

Love the Cummins, dodge chassis is just ok.
 
The auto 12v from 96-98 only have the 180 pump so it takes more work to get a lot of horsepower from them. If you don't mind the stick go with that. Also a clutch is $800-$1000 vs 3-5K for a auto build when you add hp.

I have a 98 12v QC 5 speed, yes the trucks fit in finish isn't great but the motor does run very well.
 
"but there havebeen a few 53's in the 1v's too and since this was "rebuilt" I thought I would throw it out there. look for it"

i never said there wasn't any 12 v 53's. just not a problem with them.and I believe 98 was the only year.98 is a bad year for dashboards in the new interior aswell.heres some info on the blocks.

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

I hope you don't think I was dicounting your post. I just wanted to be clear to him to look for the casting number. you info is correct.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top