Looking for some basics answers on a 2003 1M, with a 151 track.. non EFI

[UintaHound]

Hello, I have lurked here off an on for a long time. I have ridden friends and relatives sleds for a good 6 years. I decided to take the plunge and pruchase a snowmobile that wouldnt break the bank...

So this summer, after some research here and a few other forums, I decided a 900 1M was a good fit for me, conisdering the ammount of riding I have done in the past...

I found a great deal on one through a friend I trust. The only mods done to the sled is a different windshield and it has SLP Pipes. The previous owner said the sled only had around 1200 miles on it, but I couldnt be sure of it since it doesnt have an speedometer/odometer. Just the tachometer.

The sled runs awesome from when I bought it and the previous owner said it is jetted perfectly for where I will be riding it this winter. The sled is ready to ride now.

Before January hits and riding starts out here in Utah, I wanted to get a few things and wanted to get the right things... I was hoping I could get a few questions answered...

What do you recomend as the best oil to run?

What about spark plugs? Are those Iridium plugs really better?

What brand of belt should I buy? Obviously I dont want to go out on the mountain without a few of those...

I am planning on downloading an owners manual... but I found a 04 King Cat 900 speedometer / odometer on the internet. Could I buy that and put in on my sled? It has a plasic circle slot for it.... Just wondering...

Again I am a novice snowmobile owner,

My sled is a carborated red 2003 1M Mountain Cat with a 151 track... Thanks in advance!

 

[diggerdown]

I run amsoil dominator in mine but any two stroke oil that keeps the power vales clean will work fine. Use a cat 0627-020 belt, NGK spark plugs BR9eya. The speedo will work but you do need the cable and drive on the end of the axle. The drive is down below the secondary. Main thing to be carefull about is to vary your speed and pump the throttle some when running at mid range on the trail. They have a very advance timing curve at half throttle and you can burn the pistons if it is run there too long.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I run amsoil dominator in mine but any two stroke oil that keeps the power vales clean will work fine. Use a cat 0627-020 belt, NGK spark plugs BR9eya. The speedo will work but you do need the cable and drive on the end of the axle. The drive is down below the secondary. Main thing to be carefull about is to vary your speed and pump the throttle some when running at mid range on the trail. They have a very advance timing curve at half throttle and you can burn the pistons if it is run there too long.

X2 on everything Digger said.

But for oil, don't break the bank on the oil. I am running cennex full synthetic and it runs $22/gal. I have over 5000 miles on my 03.5 900. Still getting 152psi compression both sides. So oil can be over rated. But surely get some that is blended for the power valves.

Make sure you grease the hell out of the bearing on the PTO side of the track shaft. This will be the first one to go. (Should check it prior to every riding season IMO)

Thunder

 

[maddogwfo]

A Couple More Things

UintaHound, I have ran a full Mod 2003 900 1M on NOS until this season when I bought a cherry KingCat, Like DiggerDown very important to vary your speed in mid range, on, off, the gas or you will burn down, another thing I recommend is replacing the drive chain every season if you ride alot, I broke two chains in the first couple of years until I replaced them every season, I had good luck running Arctic Cat Synthetic oil, but it is expensive,stock belts work the best, grease your drive shaft and jackshaft bearing, buy a Boss High Rise seat because the stock seat will not last long, gut your airbox or mod it and have fun, they are very strong motors, MADDOGWFO

 

[Devilmanak]

Did you say you are running twins? If you start gutting airboxes or doing mods, prepare to do some tuning. You should be watching that anyway, twins are more finicky than singles. Everything else I agree with also!
The best way to make chains last is to keep them adjusted. When they get slack, they take a lot of shock and that is the way they break.
If you really want a speedo, I have a brand new one at my father's house that was never installed on my King Cat. There may be a cable there too, have to check.
Chris

 

[UintaHound]

Thanks for the tips guys... I have responded to each of you below. I also had a question on tools. My sled doesnt have a tool kit when I bought it... What specific tools are essential to have with me on the mountain with the 1M?

I run amsoil dominator in mine but any two stroke oil that keeps the power vales clean will work fine. Use a cat 0627-020 belt, NGK spark plugs BR9eya. The speedo will work but you do need the cable and drive on the end of the axle. The drive is down below the secondary. Main thing to be carefull about is to vary your speed and pump the throttle some when running at mid range on the trail. They have a very advance timing curve at half throttle and you can burn the pistons if it is run there too long.

Thanks for the tip on the plugs and belts Digger... They are ordered and en route Do I need to be as concerned about pumping the throttle without the speedo? A little confused there... If not, I will probably pass on the speedo. If it doesnt make a difference, and its not to hard to install, then I am definitely in the market...

I will either go with the Amsoil or the Arctic Cat sythetic since I cant seem to get my hands on that Cenex. Cant find it online or at a local dealer...

X2 on everything Digger said.

But for oil, don't break the bank on the oil. I am running cennex full synthetic and it runs $22/gal. I have over 5000 miles on my 03.5 900. Still getting 152psi compression both sides. So oil can be over rated. But surely get some that is blended for the power valves.

Make sure you grease the hell out of the bearing on the PTO side of the track shaft. This will be the first one to go. (Should check it prior to every riding season IMO)

Thunder

Thanks for the heads up on the bearing Thunder... Looked all over the internet. Cant buy the cenex full synthetic over the internet and no dealers close to me here in Utah (from their website) that sell it. Do you know of a spot online I can pick it up that cheap?

UintaHound, I have ran a full Mod 2003 900 1M on NOS until this season when I bought a cherry KingCat, Like DiggerDown very important to vary your speed in mid range, on, off, the gas or you will burn down, another thing I recommend is replacing the drive chain every season if you ride alot, I broke two chains in the first couple of years until I replaced them every season, I had good luck running Arctic Cat Synthetic oil, but it is expensive,stock belts work the best, grease your drive shaft and jackshaft bearing, buy a Boss High Rise seat because the stock seat will not last long, gut your airbox or mod it and have fun, they are very strong motors, MADDOGWFO

Thanks for the tips on the bearings greases maddog! Do I still need to vary my speed if I dont add the speedo? Are you saying I need to vary the speed if it were completely stock?

As far as the Chaincases go, I was reading that any Chain/case will work post 1996.. Is that correct? Sounds like wouldnt work since its dropped. Is there a certain part # for the exact chain / chaincase I can order from a dealer / or even better... the internet?

Did you say you are running twins? If you start gutting airboxes or doing mods, prepare to do some tuning. You should be watching that anyway, twins are more finicky than singles. Everything else I agree with also!
The best way to make chains last is to keep them adjusted. When they get slack, they take a lot of shock and that is the way they break.
If you really want a speedo, I have a brand new one at my father's house that was never installed on my King Cat. There may be a cable there too, have to check.
Chris

Correct on the pipes Chris.... As far as the spedo, after reading about all of your thoughts on it, it sounds like I will be more prone to ruin my pistons if I put the spedo on. Thanks for the tips on the chain tightening... I will put it on my list to do over the Christmas holiday when I get some time to get my sled ready for riding Jan-April...

 

[fossy]

for the chain just get a hyvo setup and ull never have to look at it again


about the feathering throttle
has nothing to do with having a speed or not

the motor timing is advanced (very lean) in midrange so what everyone trying to tell u
if u got down a trail for lets say 10miles dont hold ure throttle at half open all the time !!!! feather it as much as possible so u dont stay all the time in midrange

 

[snowdingo]

Any quality synthetic oil is fine, as long as its good for power valves.

Stock arctic cat belts work on these sleds

 

[maddogwfo]

Parts

UintaHound, if you are buying parts on line I suggest Babbitsonline.com, they have scamantics and brake down of all sleds with pictures and prices which are the best I have found and there service is great. MADDOGWFO

 

[Idcatman1]

I have found using 01 or 02 Thundercat jet needles (part number 6506-200) in the carbs helps with the midrange lean spot. They are the same taper, but a whisker smaller and richer. Also if you lean down the low speed rich condition in the carbs you can use a lower clutch engagement (softer spring) which lets you cruise at trail speeds at a lower rpm below the lean area in the midrange.

 

[900CatAttack]

Cracks

I was in the exact boat your in...I was new to the sport middle of last winter, bought the exact same sled you bought and then proceeded to learned a ton of info from this site and others and the great people who take the time to respond to our newbie questions. ( thanks all )
I would have to say the number 1 thing to check for is cracks in the tunnel up in the foot wells as mine were bad and had to be re-enforced with plates.

After the crack fix I put on the Hyvo chain and sprockets, Boss seat, Wild child steering post forward kit, Powerclaw track with new hyfax then put new clutch springs in ( my yellow spring was broken ) and greased all zirts...

I just took it for my first ride ( roads only ) and fricken LOVE IT...and cant wait to try it in the POW. Have fun

 

[Ultra]

The tunnel cracking is an 03 thing on the 1M,s, they have a little slot in the tunnel which leads to cracking. That area was fixed in 04+

 

[UintaHound]

I was in the exact boat your in...I was new to the sport middle of last winter, bought the exact same sled you bought and then proceeded to learned a ton of info from this site and others and the great people who take the time to respond to our newbie questions. ( thanks all )
I would have to say the number 1 thing to check for is cracks in the tunnel up in the foot wells as mine were bad and had to be re-enforced with plates.

Nice to know that I am not alone Thanks for the heads up on the cracks... I will look out for them.

UintaHound, if you are buying parts on line I suggest Babbitsonline.com, they have scamantics and brake down of all sleds with pictures and prices which are the best I have found and there service is great. MADDOGWFO

So after some research I have narrowed my oil of choice to the Klotz Techniplate or the Mystik....

Looking to get a backup / replacement drive chain from babbitts. They have two chains though. Ones a 72P and ones a 70P... Which one do I get? Does it matter?

 

[UintaHound]

dp.. sorry

 

[maddogwfo]

It Does matter

If you are running 19 top gear and 43 bottom gear you need the 72 pin chain which was stock, if you are not sure what gears you have roll the sled up on it's side and pull your chain case cover off and count your teeth on the gears or the pins on the chain, MADDOGWFO