I am sure this has been covered in detail somewhere on this site....but I can not seem to find the directions/instructions to swap tracks on the new pro ride...I have a12 assault and a 12 pro rmk. Rode doo's prior and have never swapped out a Poo track....I am not changing drivers....just the tracks...Thanks for any info
Looking for Instructions/Directions for changing out 2012 assault track
- Thread starter Pigdog
- Start date
its pretty straight forward
-start by removing the drain plug from the bottom of the chain case and getting the oil out (preferably into a pail) and let drain while you do some other prep
-remove side panels from sled completely
-remove belt
-remove exhaust can
-remove secondary (keep note of washer setup for re-installation)
-apply parking brake or have someone hold break lever while you undo the bolt holding the break disk on
***note*** for these steps DO NOT have a friend with an identical sled disassemble the chain case, makes it a real PITA when he's not there and you go to reassemble one of these for the first time
-remove bolts from back side of caliper, no need to remove lines, just turn it off to the side
-by the time the oil should have drained completely or at least enough to not make a mess, so you can remove the bolts holding the chain case cover in place
-remove cover, you'll have to pull evenly and eventually give it a little bit of a twist to get it off
-take the tension off the chain and remove the tightener
-remove spacer from jackshaft (upper), note there is an O-ring here to watch for under the spacer, I ripped mine and ended up getting a new one from John Deere when my dealer didn't have one
-remove chain
-remove bolts from both gears
-remove gears
-go to clutch side and remove the 6 10m nuts that hold the opposite end of the drivers in place, note this also holds your speedo housing
-now to remove the tension from your existing track
-undo rear torsion springs (there is a pin that holds these)
-remove 4 suspension mount bolts
-remove rear skid
-remove drivers
-remove track
and now reverse the process
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fic...Snowmobiles&make=Polaris&year=2011&fveh=39738
this is a link for a 11 SB Assault, the drivetrain should be the same in yours
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm if you want to search for your exact sled
-start by removing the drain plug from the bottom of the chain case and getting the oil out (preferably into a pail) and let drain while you do some other prep
-remove side panels from sled completely
-remove belt
-remove exhaust can
-remove secondary (keep note of washer setup for re-installation)
-apply parking brake or have someone hold break lever while you undo the bolt holding the break disk on
***note*** for these steps DO NOT have a friend with an identical sled disassemble the chain case, makes it a real PITA when he's not there and you go to reassemble one of these for the first time
-remove bolts from back side of caliper, no need to remove lines, just turn it off to the side
-by the time the oil should have drained completely or at least enough to not make a mess, so you can remove the bolts holding the chain case cover in place
-remove cover, you'll have to pull evenly and eventually give it a little bit of a twist to get it off
-take the tension off the chain and remove the tightener
-remove spacer from jackshaft (upper), note there is an O-ring here to watch for under the spacer, I ripped mine and ended up getting a new one from John Deere when my dealer didn't have one
-remove chain
-remove bolts from both gears
-remove gears
-go to clutch side and remove the 6 10m nuts that hold the opposite end of the drivers in place, note this also holds your speedo housing
-now to remove the tension from your existing track
-undo rear torsion springs (there is a pin that holds these)
-remove 4 suspension mount bolts
-remove rear skid
-remove drivers
-remove track
and now reverse the process
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/fic...Snowmobiles&make=Polaris&year=2011&fveh=39738
this is a link for a 11 SB Assault, the drivetrain should be the same in yours
http://www.ronnies.com/micro.htm if you want to search for your exact sled
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T
tlm700
Member
track removal
on the pro the chain case is glued to the bulkhead. no need to remove but drivers fit really tight. i helped a friend remove his and we did it wiout chain case removal, but it took two of us, the biggspellingest pain was getting the track to clear the od of the drivers it took some grunt,but after that the driver went right in the chaincase. worked for us!!
on the pro the chain case is glued to the bulkhead. no need to remove but drivers fit really tight. i helped a friend remove his and we did it wiout chain case removal, but it took two of us, the biggspellingest pain was getting the track to clear the od of the drivers it took some grunt,but after that the driver went right in the chaincase. worked for us!!
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It is easier to but sled on it side to remove skid bolts and than pull the skid out while it is on its side.Than I hang the rear of the sled in the air as high as I can get it,take the top track and push it up into the tunnel and but a rod in the bolt holes, in the drop down bracket to hold up the upper track. I used the aluminum inner tube and bolts from the front arm on the skid. Now push the track forward in front of the drivers and the drivers slide right out.Now take your new track and do the same and the drivers will slide right back in but everything back together in reverse order. It is a one man job.
Do not forget to fill chain case with Amsoil chain case lube and install your hps can at that time.
Hoist the rear up in the air just enough so track clears the floor by 4 inches insert 10 lbs weight in between rails towards the rear and adjust track for correct tension I measure the rear axle blocks to the rails and set both sides the same than remove weight and snug axle and start sled in gauge clutch just enough to rotate track a few times than check distance from rails to track clips toward rear of sled the distance should be the same if not tighten or loosen adjuster bolts and try again.After you get it where you want it mark everything with a scrip than take the adjuster bolt and grind or drill a small shallow mark in the flat facing out that way if you are out and need to tighten your track it makes it easier to count turns.
I hope this helps
Do not forget to fill chain case with Amsoil chain case lube and install your hps can at that time.
Hoist the rear up in the air just enough so track clears the floor by 4 inches insert 10 lbs weight in between rails towards the rear and adjust track for correct tension I measure the rear axle blocks to the rails and set both sides the same than remove weight and snug axle and start sled in gauge clutch just enough to rotate track a few times than check distance from rails to track clips toward rear of sled the distance should be the same if not tighten or loosen adjuster bolts and try again.After you get it where you want it mark everything with a scrip than take the adjuster bolt and grind or drill a small shallow mark in the flat facing out that way if you are out and need to tighten your track it makes it easier to count turns.
I hope this helps
Awesome info guys... Thanks for your time and expertise....changed out the tracks on my pro and assault with a friend....pretty straight forward process as you all described. Thanks again. Saved me some dough