Looking for help with custom turbo kit

[TurboMatt]

I am putting together a custom turbo kit for my '07 apex mtn. I have a few questions to help make my life easier. I have built many custom turbo kits for cars that were very successful, but this is gonna be my 1st time diving into a snowmobile. It's gonna be a mid mount turbo mount, using a Rev tank and seat.
I putting together my own kit for few reasons: there are certain things that I don't like about all the different kits & also saving a few bucks will be nice as well.

-Where is the easiest place to tap for oil feed and also where's the best place to run the oil drain to?
-how much hp can the stock injectors support?
-right now I am planning on running a RB3 for fuel/ignition control. Do you think this is a good idea or should i go with something else?

 

[aja636]

Matt, for the turbo feed, you can do 2 things, pull the oil pressure sensor and install a T and what ever ends you need to get it up to the turbo, or you can buy a oil filter adaptor from powderlites and go right from the oil filter, either way make sure you run a .35 restrictor to not add to much pressure to the turbo.

For the drain line, remove the gear reduction cover behind the primary clutch, and install a 1/2" hose barb pointing up towards the turbo, drill the cover, tap it and then cut what ever is left sticking out on the inside, For the turbo just another 1/2" hose barb and make sure the line flows nice and straight with out any uphill runs to the drain.

RB3 is great, you will love it, just get some one that knows the programming to help you build your maps, there are a lot of things that will give you fits, and run the 3 bar map sensor. Find out your volt min and max for it and go from there. Once set up the RB 3 is great!!

Stock injectors will be good to about 15lbs boost, some run them higher with a 1.5 to 1 pressure regulator, but for dollars to dollars, get the stage 4 injectors($250 with exchange of stock) from powderlites, or Hurricane Performance and be done with it right out the gate.

Use the coolant lines from powderlites. 1/2" feed and return on the cold side of the thermostat housing. Helps big time with keeping turbo temps down, and flows good volume.

 

[sam_coleman]

I also built a custom turbo setup on an Apex Mountain. There were a few aspects I felt could be improved on over other kits. I used a water to air intercooler as one of the major changes. I then bought a seat from Val Simmons that he uses on his propane turbo kits cause he lives about 20 minutes away from me and then I measured his tanks and used those measurements to build my own aluminum fuel tank under the seat. I took the oil supply from the oil pressure sending unit. Just buy a tee fitting that has a 4 AN fitting and get a stainless line made. For the return I took the oil to the right side of the motor just behind the oil tank. I also had to buy some fittings to change it to a hose barb, but it works. I am not sure how much horsepower the stock injectors will handle, but I am using a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator and was told by Dustin James at Outlaw Motorsports that I could run up to around 20 PSI with no problems at my elevation of about 8000 feet. As for the fuel controller, I have heard a lot of good things about the RB3, but I ended up going with an Attitude box because they are in Utah where I live so I could get it faster. I have included a few pictures for some ideas, but realize that it is not as cheap to build one as you may think. If I did it over again I would have just bought a turbo kit. Also make sure if you are going to build the header to use 321 stainless and not 304. 304 is too prone to cracking as I have found out. I hope this helps out a little. Sorry some of the pictures are a little blurry, but they should give you a basic idea.

 

[TurboMatt]

For the downpipe, do you just dump it straight down into the tunnel or do you run it back like the stock exhaust.

thanks for the help guys

 

[TurboMatt]

I also built a custom turbo setup on an Apex Mountain. There were a few aspects I felt could be improved on over other kits. I used a water to air intercooler as one of the major changes. I then bought a seat from Val Simmons that he uses on his propane turbo kits cause he lives about 20 minutes away from me and then I measured his tanks and used those measurements to build my own aluminum fuel tank under the seat. I took the oil supply from the oil pressure sending unit. Just buy a tee fitting that has a 4 AN fitting and get a stainless line made. For the return I took the oil to the right side of the motor just behind the oil tank. I also had to buy some fittings to change it to a hose barb, but it works. I am not sure how much horsepower the stock injectors will handle, but I am using a 1:1 fuel pressure regulator and was told by Dustin James at Outlaw Motorsports that I could run up to around 20 PSI with no problems at my elevation of about 8000 feet. As for the fuel controller, I have heard a lot of good things about the RB3, but I ended up going with an Attitude box because they are in Utah where I live so I could get it faster. I have included a few pictures for some ideas, but realize that it is not as cheap to build one as you may think. If I did it over again I would have just bought a turbo kit. Also make sure if you are going to build the header to use 321 stainless and not 304. 304 is too prone to cracking as I have found out. I hope this helps out a little. Sorry some of the pictures are a little blurry, but they should give you a basic idea.

Oh, and one other thing....That water-to-air setup is extremely BADASS!!!! When I was initially thinking this idea up in my head water-to-air was the 1st thing that came to mind. That has kinda gone by the wayside, but damnit now you got me thinking again.lol Do you knwo what kind of air temps you are running post intercooler? I'd bet it is cold.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

also, thoughts for oil... they are super cheap. take the giant nut that holds the oil cooler in.. drill and tap the top and add a restrictor to keep pressure down.. super cheap. for a drain, on the side of the mag housing, there is a small black cap that you can take off to check timing, just install a barb fitting in there for the return line.. thats how mine is and it works great, no $150 adapters and such.

not much help on the rest.. definately hang the turbo by a rubber flex mount as it helps the header a LOT.. makes up for design flaws.. etc etc.

 

[sam_coleman]

Oh, and one other thing....That water-to-air setup is extremely BADASS!!!! When I was initially thinking this idea up in my head water-to-air was the 1st thing that came to mind. That has kinda gone by the wayside, but damnit now you got me thinking again.lol Do you knwo what kind of air temps you are running post intercooler? I'd bet it is cold.

I never measured the temps, but it always stayed cold to the touch. I didn't really get the chance to ride it much because I hit a rock shortly after getting it done and broke the whole front frame and shifted the bulkhead back into the track. I lost interest after breaking it and got spring fever so I will fix it next year. When you think about it, water to air makes a lot more sense. Having snow cool it makes for infinite cooling. I just used a rear cooler out of a Ski-Doo Rev and modified it to use as an intercooler cooler. Just know it was kind of a pain in the *** to seal the inside of the intercooler. I had to cut it apart twice due to leaks, and I had pressure tested it both times.