Looking for a Straight drive shaft

[the gman]

Does anyone know where I can purchase or have made a straight drive shaft. Have one on order but do not have much faith it will be machined true. this is the lower shaft the drivers are pressed onto that is splined. Thanks

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

true to

not sure why they wouldn't be true ?

I have changed out drivers, all the shafts where straght. The drivers are always crooked, for good performance, after mounting the drivers you need to put the shaft and drivers in a lathe and take a cut across the face of the drivers. Usually mushy deformed plastic drivers , but straight steel.

 

[the gman]

That's what I thought. I have checked 5 single bearing drive shafts along with my 2014 double bearing shaft and all but one has the machined surfaces not true to the shaft. That is why I beleive we were loosing bearing on our first kits. If you run your kit on a stand and sight down along the side plate with the track turning you can see the side plate flexing as the drive shaft rotates. I have a new spined shaft on order but Polaris hasn't released it , and I now don't have much faith it will have true machined faces. Anyone know of a machine shop.

 

[LoudHandle]

Micro-Belmont

I've always has great luck with Micro-Belmont. They make most of Wahl Broz machined parts.

 

[M5-]

That's frustrating, seems like its always something. I believe Yeti is making a nice driveshaft and it comes with a lightweight carbon fibre holder as a bonus. Seriously if you get this figured out keep us posted, any improvements are welcome.

M5

 

[CATSLEDMAN1]

walking the dog

if your drive shaft is straight and you have wobbling un true drivers, the stiff track rotating will flex the flimsy aluminum side panels..........for sure on TS/CMX/and similar. Also have to check and make sure your drivers are spaced correctly so they ride in the center of the drive lug area as the track trying to climb your drive lugs will create quite a bit of side pressure at speed. Pretty much same stuff you have to do to tune a sled drivetrain, except more critical on our 50 hp bikes than 150 hp sleds.

Been there on several kits I hand built. Also helps to add a stiffening rod in the front of the kit, attached to the side panels, rod going from side to side just below the belly pan, a couple of plates to put the rod just in front of the track. On my wr several years ago before the tss idea, I had my side panels attached to the bike frame just behind the foot pegs on either side, increased bearing life by about 5 fold.

 

[the gman]

This wobbling was noticed before drivers were installed. I have stayed with the 2014 kit because I think the 6 tooth drivers are too small and had new 1/4 inch side panels made up and noticed the untrue shaft when mounting the bearings, first I thought I had bent the shaft , but after checking it found the machined ends are not machined true. I have also found the drivers, both 6 and 7 are just a little bit off timed, or too big. I plan on having them, the 7 turned down to the proper size.

 

[M5-]

Do you have a cad file for the side panels for Solidworks or Autocad, I was thinking of doing the same thing with the side panels.

M5