i got a 2005 skidoo 800 adrenaline and i was trying re gear it to get better climbing performance. Or are there some other things i could do to make it perform better.
Lookin to re-gear my sled
- Thread starter summitfreak
- Start date
what gears do you have in now? 19 top and 45 bottom seem to be the all around good gearing for a lot of sleds. i have a 144 so i am running 19 and a 44 but it also depends on your track
151" track
yea id try 19 and 45 or maybe just a 44 on the bottom. all the people i ride with have revs with the 151 and they all run 19 and 45.
19 top gear and a 45 bottom gear has always been good to me. Don't expect much top end speed but you'll gain torque and bottom end. Also clutch work does wonders for deep and steep. Suspension set up is also a key factor to staying on top and in control (reduce ski lift). Hope this helps.
He is completely right. clutching is key in mountian riding. just make sure you keep a good eye on your tach so you know your rpms arnt too high or too low which will lead to bogging
hey guys thanks. What kind of clutch work are you talking about? My friend was telling me to get a polaris clutch??
Its not so much changing your whole clutch as it is setting it up properly with the right spring and helix. In all honesty I really don't know much about clutching at all and take my sled to a local clutch guru. But if you are looking to change clutches completely a polaris clutch might not be a bad idea but neither would a comet primary clutch or a team secondary clutch. That is the set up I will be running this year. However I wouldn't go throwing money into clutching before you've riden the sled a bit. Regear it first and see what difference you notice and if your still not satisfied maybe look into a DJ clutch kit. I've never run this kit but people swear by them so he must be doing something right.
F
FNG
Active member
Polaris is a TEAM clutch (Polaris owns a HUGE chunk of TEAM). You have to get a TEAM clutch splined for a Doo or change your drive shaft you can't just buy a Polaris clutch and bolt it on. Just Google TEAM clutch and got o their site and follow the links. They have some "standard" set up packages for most sled models and altitudes and that is a good place to start. You can find an old HSS 098 or a newer HSS 040 on E-bay for about $100 - $150.00 but then you probubly have to buy a helix and spring for your riding conditions unless you know exactly what you are looking for and happen to find it. You can also go with a Dynamo Joe kit, lots of optins out there so either of those two would be a real improvement over stock.
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About gearing....
Gearing lower gives your track speed more staying power.
Example - if you were climbing a hill and got to "X" distance up the hill with 40mph track speed, then the track speed start to diminish.
Turning around going back down to the bottom then recalibrate to one lower gear. You should be able to climb the hill again and go past the "X" distance before the track speed reduces.
So you went a little bit longer up the hill without the track speed diminishing - gearing that one tooth lower give your track speed "staying power"
Someone mentioned of my clutch kit....
800 Summit kit
Kit c/w helix, pri. spring, pins. Install: 17g Clicker 3 Use stock secondary spring Calibrate with stock gear or lower
Some kit advice.
Must sign up to view though, had to make it that way, had viagara spammers.
Gearing lower gives your track speed more staying power.
Example - if you were climbing a hill and got to "X" distance up the hill with 40mph track speed, then the track speed start to diminish.
Turning around going back down to the bottom then recalibrate to one lower gear. You should be able to climb the hill again and go past the "X" distance before the track speed reduces.
So you went a little bit longer up the hill without the track speed diminishing - gearing that one tooth lower give your track speed "staying power"
Someone mentioned of my clutch kit....
800 Summit kit
Kit c/w helix, pri. spring, pins. Install: 17g Clicker 3 Use stock secondary spring Calibrate with stock gear or lower
Some kit advice.
Must sign up to view though, had to make it that way, had viagara spammers.
DJ kit and 19x45 gearing
I have 19 45 gearing and a DJ clutch kit in my summit.. Works great. Pulls very hard right off of the bottom end. Holds rpm well and sled tops out at about 80.
I have 19 45 gearing and a DJ clutch kit in my summit.. Works great. Pulls very hard right off of the bottom end. Holds rpm well and sled tops out at about 80.
I have 19/45 gearing and Team secondary. Runs very well.
Clutching is where it is at, gearing down if neccesary.
DJ's kits work well--if you can do the work yourself.
If not--you are close enough to go to Thayne,Wy and Star Valley ski-doo--they will get you all set up and have it done in a day or less--they ride the same elevations you do and test on the hill right behind the shop--I beleive it is in the 9800 ft range.
Either way--you will notice a huge difference.
My advice--do 1 thing at a time unless they tell you to do the gear down with the clutch kit.
H20SKE...
DJ's kits work well--if you can do the work yourself.
If not--you are close enough to go to Thayne,Wy and Star Valley ski-doo--they will get you all set up and have it done in a day or less--they ride the same elevations you do and test on the hill right behind the shop--I beleive it is in the 9800 ft range.
Either way--you will notice a huge difference.
My advice--do 1 thing at a time unless they tell you to do the gear down with the clutch kit.
H20SKE...
would you get a polaris primary vs getting clutch work done on my stock clutch? i have a polaris primary found for 250. any thoughts
I've got a 19t, team tied secondary, and a team setup in my primary (spring ect), just waiting on some snow atm before I can try it out. I was able to get out with just the secondary and was happy, but haven't ridden it since I changed the gear or updated the primary.
Here is a cut and past from Big John or one of the Doo performance guys just for your reference.
Using the right spacer behind the top gear one doesn’t need to buy the spendy DOO gears...
144 Summits
21/45 stock....OK for 4-9000'
22/45 for 0-3000'
20/45 for 9,000'+
151 Summits
21/45 stock...OK for medium elevation riding 3-6000'
22/45 for elevations 0-2000'
20/45 for elevations 6-9000'
19/45 for elevations 10,000+
159 Summits
19/45 stock...OK for elevations 4-8000'
20/45 for elevations 0-3000'
19/46 for elevations 8-11,000'
19/47 for elevations 11,000' +
IF you weigh 250 lbs or more go to the next higher elevation gearing to compensate...
Using the right spacer behind the top gear one doesn’t need to buy the spendy DOO gears...
144 Summits
21/45 stock....OK for 4-9000'
22/45 for 0-3000'
20/45 for 9,000'+
151 Summits
21/45 stock...OK for medium elevation riding 3-6000'
22/45 for elevations 0-2000'
20/45 for elevations 6-9000'
19/45 for elevations 10,000+
159 Summits
19/45 stock...OK for elevations 4-8000'
20/45 for elevations 0-3000'
19/46 for elevations 8-11,000'
19/47 for elevations 11,000' +
IF you weigh 250 lbs or more go to the next higher elevation gearing to compensate...
I would have the stock primary redone--Personally I like the adjustability of the doo primary despite its faults--it has never let me down!!
H20SKE...
H20SKE...
J
jskattum606
Well-known member
I run crazy low gearing and love it 19/47. And thats with 9T drivers on an X package sled. It wont do over 65 on the roads but climbs like an animal though the trees. I would highly recoment DJs clutch kit. The best Ive seen. I also have a team secondary that was used for about 100 miles off of my old 06 rev 800. Its splined for a skidoo shaft and has the team recomended helix and spring for 6000'-9000' Elv. PM me if anyones interested
J
JROD
Well-known member
DJs clutch kit definitely works very well but if you're looking to not spend a bunch of money here's what you should do...
First of all, most clutches of on these sleds have enough miles on them that they're probably ready to be rebuilt. Don't try tuning a clutch unless everything is in sound condition or you'll end up chasing a "clutching" issue that is actually a clutch issue. Moveable sheave bushing, spring cup bushing, and torque buttons will be the first to go. Not always will you have to replace the rollers but they're worth taking note of. After that try this.
160-260 Primary spring, empty pins, start clickers on 2 and adjust as necessary, violet secondary spring, 19/45 gearing. You can use the factory straight 44 helix but if you could find a 42, it would make a better climbing and mountain helix. The 44 is okay for an all around helix. Hope this helps.
JROD
First of all, most clutches of on these sleds have enough miles on them that they're probably ready to be rebuilt. Don't try tuning a clutch unless everything is in sound condition or you'll end up chasing a "clutching" issue that is actually a clutch issue. Moveable sheave bushing, spring cup bushing, and torque buttons will be the first to go. Not always will you have to replace the rollers but they're worth taking note of. After that try this.
160-260 Primary spring, empty pins, start clickers on 2 and adjust as necessary, violet secondary spring, 19/45 gearing. You can use the factory straight 44 helix but if you could find a 42, it would make a better climbing and mountain helix. The 44 is okay for an all around helix. Hope this helps.
JROD
I'm really surprised so many people are saying stay with 19/45. If you have the stock 10 tooth drivers then I would definetly gear it down.
That cut and paste of BJ's recommendation is for an xp that has the new 8 tooth drivers.
Usually he recommends for the 10 tooth drivers.
19/45(stcok) 0 - 3,000ft
19/46 4 - 8,000ft
19/47 9,000ft+ or rider weight 250lbs+
I would also highly recommend DJ's clutch kit too.
That cut and paste of BJ's recommendation is for an xp that has the new 8 tooth drivers.
Usually he recommends for the 10 tooth drivers.
19/45(stcok) 0 - 3,000ft
19/46 4 - 8,000ft
19/47 9,000ft+ or rider weight 250lbs+
I would also highly recommend DJ's clutch kit too.
