I was curious if its just me or if it is all 162 and longer tracks. When I go off a drop i.e. cornice or steep slope. It seems the sled always wants to nose dive no matter how fast or hard you go off. I been riding my whole life but never was able to have anything over a 144 track so I am wondering is it the longer tracks? If so how is a 151? I am debating getting rid my 1000 and getting a 800 with a shorter track but wanted opinions.
Longer or shorter tracks for drops?
- Thread starter ARMYSLEDER
- Start date
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600xc4me
Well-known member
Sounds like your just coasting on the throttle, with a long track like that if your falling faster than what your track is turning on the way down, you'll have a lot of drag back there because of the paddels catching air, and that will send your sled into a nose dive, have your tried giving her little braps of throttle on the way down to get your nose up?
it probabely has to do with how heavy the engine and front end of those 1000's i know lots of people who have no problem jumping 162 by 15 and i definately would worry about the 151
the longer tracks jump just fine.
dont let off the throttle,i have a 159 and no probs keeping the front up.
shorter tracks are better for jumping. i had a 151 2 years ago and now a 144, both revs. the shorter is so much fun. until i care about highmarking i will never get anything over a 146.
I agree. I have a 151 and it works fine. It's all in the aproach off the drop. You have to stay on the throttle until your sled hangs in the air. Once you let go(or even hit the brake) the sled tips forward. To prevent this give the throttle a few taps so the momentum of the track starting to spin brings your nose back up.
I jumped my ProX at 136" and 151". The biggest difference was how much faster the 151" would stop or check speed after landing. This opened a lot more cornices with trees in the run out.
Not by a long shot. The reason is that with a long sled, the front has already started to fall by the time the end of your track goes off the edge of the cornice. You need to go off with more throttle (not spinning the track more throttle, you need acceleration, unless you are going to get your rear end down lower by letting it dig its way there). You need to preload the rear suspension to get some weight off of the skis. This with using the gas/break should do the rest.
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600xc4me
Well-known member
True, that's pretty much what I was trying to say by saying coasting on the throttle, I just worded my first replay wrong, you need that acceleration on top, but then after that it's about your track speed. I can't speak for suspention preload, the only really long track I have dropped with was a rental that I had for a few days. All the rest of my experince is with 121's -144's, gotta love those short tracks.
H
Highmarker
Well-known member
That is cornice jumping in a nutshell right there. Give it some gas about two feet before takeoff. thats is all you need. You would be amazed how you can contoll them in the air with just a little tap of the brake or throttle.
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AKboondocker
Well-known member
Long tracks are easier to tail slap on landing than a shorter track if your approach is too flat, but are just as easy to drop cornices with using proper throttle and brake control.
What is tail slap? I know what ski slap is, coming down skis high, tail hits, then front hits, then you wonder why you aren't on the sled anymore....
Sounds like you need to think less with your head and more with your thumb...
As most have said... Its not the sled so much as technique.
With that being said... Overall, a short track is better for jumping... But that is not to say it can't be done on a long tracked sled.
I have no problems jumping my 153 M1000... But my firecat 144 was night and day easier to jump... Not to mention, the long tracked sleds need more of a cushion (powder)... I could jump the crap out of my firecat regardless of conditions... On the M1000 I learned in a hurry not to go to big in set up or spring snow.
Snow conditions will also play a role in how you aproach a jump/cornice... It could be the same jump with different snow and the aproach would be different.
Deep pow I tend to decide on how long of a run I need and pin it from that point... Packed snow I tend to accelerate, then coast to the cornice, (or light throttle) blipping the throttle just before take off... Where the powder would be more of a steady on the throttle aproach.
With that being said... Overall, a short track is better for jumping... But that is not to say it can't be done on a long tracked sled.
I have no problems jumping my 153 M1000... But my firecat 144 was night and day easier to jump... Not to mention, the long tracked sleds need more of a cushion (powder)... I could jump the crap out of my firecat regardless of conditions... On the M1000 I learned in a hurry not to go to big in set up or spring snow.
Snow conditions will also play a role in how you aproach a jump/cornice... It could be the same jump with different snow and the aproach would be different.
Deep pow I tend to decide on how long of a run I need and pin it from that point... Packed snow I tend to accelerate, then coast to the cornice, (or light throttle) blipping the throttle just before take off... Where the powder would be more of a steady on the throttle aproach.
It's all about how bad you want to hurt if you screw up
I know I add a lot more throttle when there's a soft landing.
A
AKboondocker
Well-known member
What is tail slap? I know what ski slap is, coming down skis high, tail hits, then front hits, then you wonder why you aren't on the sled anymore....
Same thing you described, I guess I just call it a tail slap. Either way, not good!
I rember when I had my old MM700 with a 144 I would Idle up to the edge the drop and when the skis were 6 inches away I would full throttle then let off then land acordinly. It just seems this 1000 wont do it. From what every one has said I think I will just idle towards the edge then when I am about 3 feet away full throttle and stand to the back. I was watching slednecks last night and alot the guys would do that then when in the air slid foward then adjust acordinly in the air. Thanks for all the imput guys I cant wait to put the comments to the test!
