little help with helix???

[THRILL_SEEKER]

Just wondering if someone can shed a little light on why i am seeing so many steep angled helixs?

Am i wrong in thinking that steeper angles=faster shift out?

And if this is true wouldnt that be good for dragracing and long hill pulls and not so good for boondocking?

Seems like you would want to stay in lower gear while boondocking. Wouldnt a steep helix just dump the track in the deep snow when you wick the throttle?

Just wanted a little insight befor i go throwing a hundred bucks around on a new helix if it is ment to go fast and not for boondockin.

 

[slash]

CALL SLP talk to there clutching guy they test for different aplications ,boondockin,climbin,drag racing ect 208-529-0244

 

[MARV1]

Better yet, do a search for IndyDan on clutching. The Team '98 and '04 helix is further out from the center compared to the old button clutch which requires more helix to work with higher hp engines. Heck, he explains it better than I do.

 

[thefullmonte]

Indy Dan started the steep helix craze with the 900's. And it was magic for those sleds. The motor was low RPM high torque and very suseptable to breaking stuff. The 900 motor had the ability to back shift well on it's own so didn't require the shallow helix. The steeper helix provided more of a cushion lets say. So for that sled he combined steep helix with stiff springs.
You are correct in your assesment of the steep initial angle. They tend to work good for taking a run at a good climb. Some people like them because they shift out quick. This puts the motor into higher gear rather quickly typically reducing trenching. Good for climbing, but not the best in tight trees. You sacrifice some low speed backshift and cheat yourself out of low gear.
I ride much like you. I spend a lot of time in the trees and do prefer a helix similar to stock. You tend to want a smooth engagement with abundant low speed on/off throttle response. You may be crawling one second and WOT the next.
Keep in mind that your primary clutch setup can have a big effect on your helix choice as well. I like shallower helixes, but also use adjustable weights to control holeshot, engagement and trenching. You can't do that with stock weights. The stock setup you will notice quite a bit of belt slip at low speed and engagement. Here a steeper helix would benifit. I could go into detail about spring choices as well, but it's too early in the morning. Lol
AKSNOWRIDER has advised many people on his setup that you can find in the "increasing your IQ" sticky at the top of the page. Here is the link.
He runs something in the 62/42-.46 range. I didn't care for it as much, but many people do. I still give him a thumbs up because it has worked so well for so many others. It just depends on your riding style as stated.
I am currently running heavy hitters with a 140/340 blue/pink SLP spring 58/42/-.36 helix with a 160-260 blk/wht spring. Typically riding 4-6000ft.

 

[MNSLEDNECK56308]

Carls custom cut for the 800 (62/42.40) works well!!!! Call Chris.

 

[hardhat32]

The AKSNOWRIDER tread is a pretty good source for info.

Outside of that, my two cents are below. Please note that your conditions and sled are probably much different than mine, and there are people on here that know more than I do.

I think the other reason for the steep initial angle is that the clutch weights don't have a lot of leverage to start out, and when the belt is in the beginning of the shift pattern the engine transfers much more torque to the secondary.

I think the part you need to watch is the length of the initial angle. I was running a .46 helix in my 7 at over 10,000 feet, and I believe it was too much; however with the right spring in the secondary it may be just fine.

With the setup I had, I believe the .46 may have drag raced better, but I don't think it climbed as well as a .36 would have. It probably got me up the hill faster, but it was working the engine too hard at the end of the climb. Soon I will test a .36 helix to see if it works better. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to like it better for boondocking and deep snow riding.

Get the spread sheet for the team tied clutch and play with the numbers. You can use it to compare TSS-04 setups against each other.

 

[minus40]

Indy Dan started the steep helix craze with the 900's. And it was magic for those sleds. The motor was low RPM high torque and very suseptable to breaking stuff. The 900 motor had the ability to back shift well on it's own so didn't require the shallow helix. The steeper helix provided more of a cushion lets say. So for that sled he combined steep helix with stiff springs.
You are correct in your assesment of the steep initial angle. They tend to work good for taking a run at a good climb. Some people like them because they shift out quick. This puts the motor into higher gear rather quickly typically reducing trenching. Good for climbing, but not the best in tight trees. You sacrifice some low speed backshift and cheat yourself out of low gear.
I ride much like you. I spend a lot of time in the trees and do prefer a helix similar to stock. You tend to want a smooth engagement with abundant low speed on/off throttle response. You may be crawling one second and WOT the next.
Keep in mind that your primary clutch setup can have a big effect on your helix choice as well. I like shallower helixes, but also use adjustable weights to control holeshot, engagement and trenching. You can't do that with stock weights. The stock setup you will notice quite a bit of belt slip at low speed and engagement. Here a steeper helix would benifit. I could go into detail about spring choices as well, but it's too early in the morning. Lol
AKSNOWRIDER has advised many people on his setup that you can find in the "increasing your IQ" sticky at the top of the page. Here is the link.
He runs something in the 62/42-.46 range. I didn't care for it as much, but many people do. I still give him a thumbs up because it has worked so well for so many others. It just depends on your riding style as stated.
I am currently running heavy hitters with a 140/340 blue/pink SLP spring 58/42/-.36 helix with a 160-260 blk/wht spring. Typically riding 4-6000ft.

Will you share your HH setup? I have a set of 60 base but have not tried them yet. Something to start with would help shorten tuning time up.

 

[thefullmonte]

This is where I am at now. I was a little off of where I wanted to be for peak RPM so this what I will be trying next. This is adjustment #5 so I've narrowed it down pretty good.
My weights are 55g (55.7) base weight
4.2g in hole 1
3g in hole 2
2.6g in hole 3

60 base weight isn't going to have much room for tuning. What altitude are you at and what are your stock weights? PM me and I can give you a base line starting point.
Sorry off topic.
Monte