Limiter straps??

[Stlhead]

I have gotten some conflicting info on how to set them recently, can someone clarify if shortening them reduces trenching or increases it? Not concerned with trail performance, just powder. My new sled does not seem to pop up like my older ones have and the straps are full long now. Thought I would ask before blindly changing them.

Thanks for the help...

 

[Ollie]

I have gotten some conflicting info on how to set them recently, can someone clarify if shortening them reduces trenching or increases it? Not concerned with trail performance, just powder. My new sled does not seem to pop up like my older ones have and the straps are full long now. Thought I would ask before blindly changing them.

Thanks for the help...

On what sled??

Think of the track as a pivot. The pivot point is the top idler wheel. If you put the limiter strap in the highest position (shortest setting) it pulls the front up and pushes the back down and just the opposite with the straps in the lowest hole (all the way out).

If you put the limiter strap in the highest position you put ski pressure at it's max.
With the limiter strap all the way out (in it's bottom hole) you have the least ski pressure and the track can get up on the snow easier (less trenching).

Now real sure about other brands but that is the general rule for polaris. When the limiter strap is in the bottom hole (all the way out), you get a lot of ski lift and you need to be carful on the trails. If you throttle up going into a corner you can lift the ski's and drive right into a tree. So if you make the change, take it easy till you get used to it.

 

[Insaneboltrounder/sjohns]

Im not sure if i read Ollies reply right but it didnt seem right. If you pull up the skid , shorten limiter, you reduce the angle of approach to the snow and thats what gets you on top of the snow. Theres more to it than that but the end is the same. You want less trenching shorten the limiter , there is bad stuff that comes with that , but , hey you wanted pow performance. sj

 

[0neoldfart]

Im not sure if i read Ollies reply right but it didnt seem right. If you pull up the skid , shorten limiter, you reduce the angle of approach to the snow and thats what gets you on top of the snow. Theres more to it than that but the end is the same. You want less trenching shorten the limiter , there is bad stuff that comes with that , but , hey you wanted pow performance. sj

What he said - shortening the limiter reduces attack angle and will allow it to get on top of the snow easier. You will also have increased ski pressure. Loosening the strap will make it a wheelie monster, and it can trench due to the increased weight transfer. Sleds like the 98 Summit X had too much transfer and you had to reduce front arm spring rates, Others like the 07 M1000 needed more weight transfer to carry the skis out of the snow, and most let the straps out all the way and increased front arm spring preload, and moved front arm mount lower in the tunnel. Or they bought aftermarket suspension to get the feel they wanted.

 

[Ollie]

A lot of it depends on the sled.
My current 08 700 rmk likes it in the middle setting, my 01 800 had to have the straps at their longest setting.
Tuning the rear suspension can vary radically depending on sled and year.

 

[Rixster]

I am going to tell you just the opposite, Of course it is different on every sled. In my experence short straps = trenching. Longer straps = better deep powder performance.
If you pull the front of the skid up, you are putting the weight of the sled on the skis and VERY back of the skid, This setup is great for trail riding.
If you let the front of the skid down, you put the weight of the sled on the front of the skid, This lets your sled transfer weight SO much better in the deep.
Just my .02

 

[Vern]

i agree that it all depends on the sled, and theres more to trenching than just limiter position, for ex. on my brothers 02 rmk 700 hes found that his climbs better in the deep pow with his limiter in the middle hole but with his rear springs (the very back ones) setup soft to where it transfers alot more, where as on my m7 the best pow performance ive seen is with the limiters all the way out with the spring on the front shock on the rear skid very soft and the very back springs set up as stiff as they go which means less transfer, but allows the front of the skid to climb up on the snow.

 

[powderpoo]

get an engineer on the line! prolly a lotta different factors. how long the track?

 

[5STAR]

If anyone has seen or payed attension to any of the after market mountain sled builders, they had this figured out years ago. Any one hear the term drop and rolled, this was done primarilly to achieve a certain degree of attack angle from your drive axle to the rails. A sled with a shallower angle will always have more deep snow mobility thus climb better than one that is more vertical, the more vertical the angle the more the track snowplows before actually get on top of it . If you still don't get what im trying to say just look at any of the snow cross sleds and check out their angles, they are very vertical because they aren't designed to go through 4 feet of powder.

 

[Bagger]

Stlhead,
It would help if you included the type/year of sled and type of riding you prefer.

On my Edge (144) it's best with the limiters out, front skid spring adjusted out. This allows the front to pic up and really set the track in the snow. It requires a little throttle control to get moving without just augering in. But it's the best set up for that sled. It's ok, getting up in the powder, but is hell on wheels in the trees/whoops when you have something to bite. (firmer snow)

On my 07 Raw, it behaves MUCH better with the limiter in the middle hole, the forward skid shock layed forward and the front springs at stiff as possible.
This allows for nearly zero transfer, puts the front of the track at a gentle slope entering the snow, and it pops up on top of the snow like nothing I've ever seen. This setup favors a little more throttle getting started. This also makes the rear suspension very soft, and while it works incredibly well in powder, it's will bottom hammering the whoops.

As a side, if you pack a small tarp - 5 X 8 - it makes it much easier to work under the sled making adjustments on the hill. Also lots easier to find crap you drop !

Good luck. B

 

[Speeedracer]

Mr Poo, does that sled still know how to trench??!?!?!?!?!?!

 

[MikeyApex]

My limiter straps were set all the way out on my Apex. With the sled on the ground it had tons of slack in them. I just pulled them in to around the middle setting to see if that helps it from trenching so bad. When you think about it, if you have the straps all the way out the force of the track rotating will be pushing the front of the skid down into the snow. By pulling up the straps I think it will create a shallower angle and not allow the track to pitch forward as much. I will try it tomorrow and see if my theory is correct or if I am just talking out my A$$

 

[KENDALL]

I have had the best luck with staps loose or "out" on edge rmk's. Keeps the track parrallel to the snow instead of augering the rear of the track in when you pin the throttle.

 

[BENDER 151]

My Viper Likes Them Fully Ext..bottom .the Wifes Edge Likes Em Middle Hole And Works Well There.

 

[RMG]

I think you have to play with them a bit to see what works best for your particular sled/riding. Longer straps with stiffer frt shock let the sled climb up on the snow but too much weight transfer will make you trench. It's kind of like the trim on a motor boat and getting it up on plane.

 

[MikeyApex]

Just got back from a ride with Chazzer and the Apex worked really well. The limiters are in the 3rd hole and it seems to get up on the snow better than when they were all the way out. Still managed to get stuck a couple times though........