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Lightweight Lexan Hood, or Stock?

H

HiWaYman92

Well-known member
Last night I taco'd my King Cat hood at about 3 miles an hour. Hit the trailer ramp, and it kicked up, then proceeded to smash my hood, windshield and kill switch, and HANDS! Hands are ok, but I am not sure what to do here... I drilled and zip tied the hood back together so it is pretty operational. I took the windshield off, as it is trashed. I got an estimate for the parts and labor from my cat dealer, and its like $1187.00 to fix all three with factory parts. I have a $250 dollar deductable. Should I:
1. Replace all broken items with OEM equip and turn in the insurance claim?
2. Replace the hood with a lightweight lexan hood (Will the guages, hood hinge and headlight work in these hoods?)
3. Buy a kill switch, windshield, and call it good?

I am really interested in these lightweight hoods. My dealer tried to discourage me from buying one, because he said they are too flimsy... what do you think?
 
#2, go lighter, it'll be stronger then the stock hood, plus get 4 more rubber hood tie downs so it really stays on

that way you have the stock rubber straps at the back, put 1 in the middle each side, and one on the front each side
 
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I had a lexan hood on a 01 zx. A little spendy but worth it. I did eventually destroy it but it was put through he!!. Had to do some cutting on it but I did use the stock headlight pod and gauges but no hindges. Not a cat but I hope it helps.Maybe call BR Tech they will know.
 
How do you use the headlight and tach if there aren't any hood hinges? How would you take the hood off? I like the idea of having a headlight and a tach (I could go without the speedo.) A new hood with decals from Cat is 817 dollars!! That is a couple lexans...
 
How do you use the headlight and tach if there aren't any hood hinges? How would you take the hood off? I like the idea of having a headlight and a tach (I could go without the speedo.) A new hood with decals from Cat is 817 dollars!! That is a couple lexans...

i've never had one, but you get a halogen light and hook it up somewhere, and mount the tac on your bar or somewhere close, and you dont use the hinges, loose even more weight, pop all 6 straps and take it off the entire way,

but i did have a carbon fiber hood, same rules apply
 
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I just got a 1m to m series poly hood from xxxmodrods alot lighter than stock and very flexible kinda like a windshield
 
hoods

checkout Br Techs hoods, i got the Thrasher one on my mm, they are like $100 and under $50 shipped. i love it. who cares if you scratch it, and they are a little flexable and super light. shaved almost 23 lbs off my sled.
 
I first want to say that a polycorboante hood is NOWHERE near as strong as a stock Arctic cat hood. Not even remotely comparable!

With that said, I think it boils down to a few deciding factors that you will have to prioritize for yourself. I personally feel the biggest deciding factor is weight. If that is your number one goal and it means the very most in terms of your needs, then Polycarbonate is the way to go. However, the actual weight savings is usually distorted because of the accessories used on a stock hood. Most guys will throw on an unfinished Poly hood with nothing on it, not even paint and then subtract the weight from stock. Keep in mind that a lot of the weight found on a stock hood is in the headlight, gauges, decals, hinge assembly, insulation, wiring, etc. Therefore, its not an apples to apples comparison. With that aside a couple of things to consider are usability, strength and appearance with factory hoods winning hands down in all those aspects. Factory hoods look better. the fit and finish is always nicer and they hold paint better. Factory hoods also allow you to use all the factory accessories, headlight, gauges, hinge assembly. Cost is another big concern. A Polycarbonate hood will often be cheaper, but you can sometimes find used hoods with everything on them (gauges, headlights, decals, straps, etc) for very reasonable prices. Strength is a no brainer. Anyone that tells you a Polycarbonate hood is just as durable as a stock hood is either lying or they have never actually owned one.

Bottom line, if you want a lightweight hood and do not care about hinges, factory headlight, gauges, etc. go with Polycarbonate. If you want a durable hood with all the features of a stock one, go with a stock hood. Personally, I would shop around for a used one for a fraction of the cost.

Hope that helps.

SHMO

Ps: If you are interested, I have a Polycarbonate Thrasher hood for a Kingcat. It is in new condition with the plastic still on it that I will sell for $75.
 
I don't know about the cat but on my doo the wiring connection for the hood wires was on the left side by the clutch. With hood on simply lift edge of hood and either plug or unplug connecter. Make sure to remove connecter lock so if ( hopefully not ) you wreck and the hood comes off the connection will just pull apart. Worked for me. This was a lexan hood. I deleated the headlight and guages with the polycarbonate hood. They are too flimbsy.
 
cut the hole for your tach. you may have to add a bit of filler as the poly hood is realy thin......that is case by case. you can rivet a light into the new hood or whip up some brackets and keep the lights attached to the sled......both are popular. my hood on my mtn max endured a jackson hole type roll down a spring ride on a ski resort black diamond mogul run.....just a couple cracks:D you can see my light mounted and the hood hinges are riveted w/washers

P4060263Small.jpg
 
I got my hood now, but have not yet attempted to install it. I need some rubber straps to mount it. Also, has anyone had any luck fabbing up a bracket to mount the tach and a headlight?
 
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