I've noticed a rash of these pumps going down lately.
I just installed a new one myself. I've had two mag side cylinders down, and I believe it is the result of poor fuel flow.
The factory pump is a Walbro F2000286.
This pump is rated at 45lph at 58psi (4 Bar).
This pump should support about 150hp maxed out at 12 Volts.
However the sled runs I believe 14v or 16v. I can't remember off the top of my head. Which should push it up into the 160hp-170hp range.
However at this power level the pump is for all intents and purposes maxed out, and you will begin to see pressure drop beyond this.
This can be compensated for with increased injector pintle opening times, but at 170hp the pump as far as the beer math is concerned is maxed out.
I've seen pumps flow beyond their capacity and also seen pumps fall a little short.
I've been building Turbo cars for years. I've got a 1000hp Corvette parked next to the Sled right now with 60,000 miles of boost on it, and it starts runs and drives like a factory car, this is due to me supplying adequate fuel via a pair of 400LPH Walbro pumps.
While a single pump can supply the fuel to make the power, I run two to decrease stress and load on the fuel pumps. I'm a huge proponent for doubling the required fuel flow for any given power requirement from the pump.
So... The sled is capable of making 160ish hp with the factory fuel pump running full tilt.
I made the decision to pull out the factory hangar and drop in a Walbro 255lph pump.
Mostly because I have three of them laying around.
This pump will supply more fuel than this engine will ever be capable of consuming even if it gets weak and drops down to half flow. The engine will still be at double the required flow to make stock horsepower.
If you're running a turbocharged this is a no brainer.
Things required for install:
1x Walbro 255lph pump.
1x Brass Nipple or Walbro 255lph pump remote install adapter.
Gas safe epoxy.
Get the fuel pump assembly out of the sled.
Separate the top of the fuel pump assembly from the bottom of the assembly. You have to pry out on a little tab behind the raised square that runs top to bottoms between the upper and lower half of the fuel pump hangar. Turn the bottom of the hangar clockwise if looking at the pump from the top, and it should come free.
Now you need to separate the stock pump from the upper half of the hangar. The pump is secured to the upper half via a rubber collar around the nipple on the upper half of the pump. You have to take a long screw driver and gently pry the pump down and away from the upper half of the hangar away from the pump. It should slide right out with very minimal pressure. Too much and you'll start to crack the housing. Go slow.
Disconnect the electrical connector and the pump should be free.
To install you're going to need to put a nipple on the bottom of the pump that will accept the factory feed line.
Using either a heated brass nipple screwed into the pump inlet and epoxy to secure it. Or an adapter kit which is available online.
You're gonna need to shave off the little rectangular tabs on the bottom of the pump.
You're also going to have to clearance the bottom side of the collar that secures the pump to its hangar to allow for the offset nipple placement.
You're going to have to swap the power wires to the pump. While the connector is the same, the positive and negative leads are on opposite sides. If you're going to cut and splice instead of swapping the pins. Do this to the wires that are outside of the tank. Unless you have fuel safe heatshrink on hand to protect them. Standard heatshrink will come apart and turn into nasty black crud and clog your fuel filters. (I have learned this one the hard way years ago)
Run red wire to Black wire and black wire to red wire.
Put your new pump into the assembly, and put it all back together!
You will now have ample fuel for more power than the sled will ever make.
Did not proof read*
I just installed a new one myself. I've had two mag side cylinders down, and I believe it is the result of poor fuel flow.
The factory pump is a Walbro F2000286.
This pump is rated at 45lph at 58psi (4 Bar).
This pump should support about 150hp maxed out at 12 Volts.
However the sled runs I believe 14v or 16v. I can't remember off the top of my head. Which should push it up into the 160hp-170hp range.
However at this power level the pump is for all intents and purposes maxed out, and you will begin to see pressure drop beyond this.
This can be compensated for with increased injector pintle opening times, but at 170hp the pump as far as the beer math is concerned is maxed out.
I've seen pumps flow beyond their capacity and also seen pumps fall a little short.
I've been building Turbo cars for years. I've got a 1000hp Corvette parked next to the Sled right now with 60,000 miles of boost on it, and it starts runs and drives like a factory car, this is due to me supplying adequate fuel via a pair of 400LPH Walbro pumps.
While a single pump can supply the fuel to make the power, I run two to decrease stress and load on the fuel pumps. I'm a huge proponent for doubling the required fuel flow for any given power requirement from the pump.
So... The sled is capable of making 160ish hp with the factory fuel pump running full tilt.
I made the decision to pull out the factory hangar and drop in a Walbro 255lph pump.
Mostly because I have three of them laying around.
This pump will supply more fuel than this engine will ever be capable of consuming even if it gets weak and drops down to half flow. The engine will still be at double the required flow to make stock horsepower.
If you're running a turbocharged this is a no brainer.
Things required for install:
1x Walbro 255lph pump.
1x Brass Nipple or Walbro 255lph pump remote install adapter.
Gas safe epoxy.
Get the fuel pump assembly out of the sled.
Separate the top of the fuel pump assembly from the bottom of the assembly. You have to pry out on a little tab behind the raised square that runs top to bottoms between the upper and lower half of the fuel pump hangar. Turn the bottom of the hangar clockwise if looking at the pump from the top, and it should come free.
Now you need to separate the stock pump from the upper half of the hangar. The pump is secured to the upper half via a rubber collar around the nipple on the upper half of the pump. You have to take a long screw driver and gently pry the pump down and away from the upper half of the hangar away from the pump. It should slide right out with very minimal pressure. Too much and you'll start to crack the housing. Go slow.
Disconnect the electrical connector and the pump should be free.
To install you're going to need to put a nipple on the bottom of the pump that will accept the factory feed line.
Using either a heated brass nipple screwed into the pump inlet and epoxy to secure it. Or an adapter kit which is available online.
You're gonna need to shave off the little rectangular tabs on the bottom of the pump.
You're also going to have to clearance the bottom side of the collar that secures the pump to its hangar to allow for the offset nipple placement.
You're going to have to swap the power wires to the pump. While the connector is the same, the positive and negative leads are on opposite sides. If you're going to cut and splice instead of swapping the pins. Do this to the wires that are outside of the tank. Unless you have fuel safe heatshrink on hand to protect them. Standard heatshrink will come apart and turn into nasty black crud and clog your fuel filters. (I have learned this one the hard way years ago)
Run red wire to Black wire and black wire to red wire.
Put your new pump into the assembly, and put it all back together!
You will now have ample fuel for more power than the sled will ever make.
Did not proof read*
