Lets see the m7 mods

[cumminshp]

Ok show your m7 mods tell us what you have done to them and what elevation you ride how much you weigh your box numbers if you have any and your clutching specs and your favorite mod(s). Going to try get a little thing started on here for to help me and anyone else who is going to mod there m7. So just copy and fill in below

Elevation:

Your weight:

Box numbers (if any):

mods:

Clutching specs:

Favorite mod(s):

additional info or tips:

Pics:

Please try fill out every spot going to try use this info to help me mod my m7 and hopefully this comes in handy to other guys. Thanks

 

[cumminshp]

Bump come on guys

 

[2005m7]

05 162 le

ride 7000' and up

800bb
bmp single and y pipe
power commander 5 with autotune and lcd screen
bdx intake
vforce reeds
stm power valves
10.4 secondary with bmp torsoinal kit 40-36 helix
140-300 primary spring dalton adjustable weights
gauge lift
2cool and modrod vents
better boards
boss seat
bdx rear bumper
billet 2 wheel kit
anti stab kit
power claw track
slp powder pro skis

 

[cumminshp]

Here ill start with mine

2006 m7

Elevation:start out at 2k-3k ft. ride at 5k-8k usually around 6k

Your weight:160lbs 5'10''-11''

Box numbers (if any): no box (yet)

mods:snow eliminators,venting on side pannels,ice scratchers,mbrp can,slp inner wheel kit,aftermarket grips,slp big air intake,boss seat,Custom decal kit from Htr,tether and 6'' bar riser (need to install).

Clutching specs:slp green & pink primary,white Ac secondary, stock straight 36 helix .Need to install my 65g Ac weights. Im running 68g right now but when im climbing i can hit about 7500 or maybe a bit more hard to look down on the trails ive seen 77xx so hoping to gain the bit more "snap" on the bottom end i want and a few hundred rpm. The setup was recommended by slp except they said 65g weights just havnt installed them yet still running the stock 68s as i said.

Favorite mod(s): Boss seat snow eliminators and can

additional info or tips:Its a 2006 m7 153'' efi. I plan on doing more venting and modding it this summer i plan on twins or a single and fuel controller and maybe a head and track. If i dont get a track im going to reverse my challanger as the paddles are starting to bend and i will port it. Also planning on taking headlights out, looking for more info on how to drop weight cheap or for free Please make suggestions !! Thanks

Pics: Ok so it was all black and no decals when i got it went to a local place about 15 mins from me in castlegar b.c talk to Justin hes a great guy to deal with him and his staff make some nice decal kits and they will customize decal kits to. so heres mine now still need to put on the bumper wrap and the tunnel wrap (will do that in summer probably) So i actually gave them the idea to start doing this decal kit (hit the fence on fire) in green now its on there site they only use to have it in orange anyways my "nick" names humper so i did that with monster "m" on the side,also the lights have a wrap on them they just dont show well in the pic but the light still goes through them. Also heres the site if anyone wants it the decals are easy to apply to and they are very "forgiving" http://www.htrdesigns.com/arctic-cat-m-series.html

 

[cumminshp]

05 162 le

ride 7000' and up

800bb
bmp single and y pipe
power commander 5 with autotune and lcd screen
bdx intake
vforce reeds
stm power valves
10.4 secondary with bmp torsoinal kit 40-36 helix
140-300 primary spring dalton adjustable weights
gauge lift
2cool and modrod vents
better boards
boss seat
bdx rear bumper
billet 2 wheel kit
anti stab kit
power claw track
slp powder pro skis

How do you like the pc track ? Also how do you like the pipe setup ?

 

[4Z]

Per your request

2005 M7 LE

Fastrax BB800 with Ruth Porting

SLP Twins (wrapped from head pipe to mid belly)

Power Commander 5 from Racinstation and modified their base map to my taste

Fantom Rope

Fastrax P85 primary clutch conversion

Old style Heel Clicker weights

Extra motor mount under PTO side

SnoPro intake horn

Home made intake filter on SnoPro horn

STM billet 11" secondary (using reverse cam helix 'old cat style')

Geared down to 2:17 ratio

3" Camo Extreme 162

Relocated front track shock (and valved)

Coupled rear scissor arm (home made) and valved rear shock

Two-wheel rear axle

Better Boards

Fastrax tail section update with new style stock rear bumper

New style stock seat

Skins Powder Pak rear bag

Extra gas rack (added one more stock half)

Diamond S mesh hood with home made hinges and home made velcro'd on mesh to keep snow out (behind front bumper)

EGT Race Pak 3-window

Cyclops Halogen light mounted on home made Race Pak plate

Single sourced resistor from Mouser Electronics

Home made foot pegs to flatten out my feet in when feet are in foot pocket

Powermadd handle bar bag with heater (to keep batteries and Cliff bars warm)

Derlin front suspension bushings

2011 Fox Zero Pro front coil over shocks

Vintage TISON rear LED brake/tail light

Home made oil delete

Home made handle bar relocation (forward) and Powermadd bar risers

Stuffed steering post (solid rod)

Fastrax cut head for 14:1 compression 50/50 av gas mix

Stock 2011 skis

Fastrax carbon fiber side panel vents and shock tower vents


Track speed? dunno since I don't have speedo on sled. Do know that it shifts out fast and having the Heel Clickers tucked (as they are supposed to be) it build tons of hill speed, very impressive on top end. Gets up on step quickly and stays there. Very happy with it now. Nothing left I want to do.

Cost? Couldn't tell you. I tear down the sled every summer and inspect everything, replace what is needed so that it is 100% during the season. When you start modding, there is a certain level of responsibility you will have to accept. Inspecting, care and feeding are the upmost importance if you plan on enjoying your mod sled. Accept the fact you will have to dial in or tune it to take advantage of all your money and time.

Hope this helps....

Pics of most items listed: Clicky

 

[cumminshp]

Per your request

2005 M7 LE

Fastrax BB800 with Ruth Porting

SLP Twins (wrapped from head pipe to mid belly)

Power Commander 5 from Racinstation and modified their base map to my taste

Fantom Rope

Fastrax P85 primary clutch conversion

Old style Heel Clicker weights

Extra motor mount under PTO side

SnoPro intake horn

Home made intake filter on SnoPro horn

STM billet 11" secondary (using reverse cam helix 'old cat style')

Geared down to 2:17 ratio

3" Camo Extreme 162

Relocated front track shock (and valved)

Coupled rear scissor arm (home made) and valved rear shock

Two-wheel rear axle

Better Boards

Fastrax tail section update with new style stock rear bumper

New style stock seat

Skins Powder Pak rear bag

Extra gas rack (added one more stock half)

Diamond S mesh hood with home made hinges and home made velcro'd on mesh to keep snow out (behind front bumper)

EGT Race Pak 3-window

Cyclops Halogen light mounted on home made Race Pak plate

Single sourced resistor from Mouser Electronics

Home made foot pegs to flatten out my feet in when feet are in foot pocket

Powermadd handle bar bag with heater (to keep batteries and Cliff bars warm)

Derlin front suspension bushings

2011 Fox Zero Pro front coil over shocks

Vintage TISON rear LED brake/tail light

Home made oil delete

Home made handle bar relocation (forward) and Powermadd bar risers

Stuffed steering post (solid rod)

Fastrax cut head for 14:1 compression 50/50 av gas mix

Stock 2011 skis

Fastrax carbon fiber side panel vents and shock tower vents


Track speed? dunno since I don't have speedo on sled. Do know that it shifts out fast and having the Heel Clickers tucked (as they are supposed to be) it build tons of hill speed, very impressive on top end. Gets up on step quickly and stays there. Very happy with it now. Nothing left I want to do.

Cost? Couldn't tell you. I tear down the sled every summer and inspect everything, replace what is needed so that it is 100% during the season. When you start modding, there is a certain level of responsibility you will have to accept. Inspecting, care and feeding are the upmost importance if you plan on enjoying your mod sled. Accept the fact you will have to dial in or tune it to take advantage of all your money and time.

Hope this helps....

Pics of most items listed: Clicky

How do you like the twins ? Also why did you wrap them? Also why did you run the powercomander over the bd box ? How do you like your rktek secondary ? Also if someone got at least 60 watt lights would that be enough draw so that they would have to get a resistor ?

If i say had a budget of $1000 what would you suggest doing ? I would buy the pipes used and the fuel controller, so average that at $300 what else would you suggest doing ? Rktek secondary ? Rktek head? New track ?

 

[ippielb]

Not an M series sled but pretty close


Elevation:1800-2000 feet(home) 4500-7500(West)

Your weight:165lbs

Box numbers (if any):
1.) (Mode 1 Green) 3 LED's
2.) (Mode 2 Yellow) 3 LED's
3.) (Mode 3 Red) 4.5 or 7(Trail) LED's
4.) (Mode 4 Green/Blue) 5 LED's
5.) (Mode 5 Yellow/Blue) No Secondary Injectors
6.) (Mode 6 Red/Blue) 7 LED's

mods:
Aerocharger 53 Series Turbocharger
D&D 800 Big Bore
D&D Y-Pipe-Speedworks Pipe-2.5" Downpipe
153" Mountain Cat Rails
Attack 20 2.25" Hillclimb
22-41 Gears
8 Tooth Drivers 3" pitch
2:1 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Attitude Industries Control Box
AEM Air Fuel Ratio and Boost Gauge
Digitron EGT Display
06 ECU
ProTaper bars
Acerbis Hand guards
snostuff windscreen
cat tinted headlight covers
titanium a arms
snopro 440 torsion springs
titanium coil over Zero pro shocks in front
Zero pro coil over in rear

Clutching specs:
STM adjustable weights set to 76g
Speedwerx titanium primary spring
cat green secondary spring

Favorite mod(s):
D&D BB800
Digitron EGT

Pics:

 

[4Z]

How do you like the twins ? Also why did you wrap them? Also why did you run the powercomander over the bd box ? How do you like your rktek secondary ? Also if someone got at least 60 watt lights would that be enough draw so that they would have to get a resistor ?

If i say had a budget of $1000 what would you suggest doing ? I would buy the pipes used and the fuel controller, so average that at $300 what else would you suggest doing ? Rktek secondary ? Rktek head? New track ?

You will have to decide what you want out of a sled. Light weight, power, handling, reliability, no tuning, minimal maintenance etc.... no matter what anyone says, you cannot have it all.

I like the twins over a single because they make more power. The wrap helps keep a little heat in the pipe so the lower rpm's will retain some snap and consistency.

I like the PC5 over the BD box because as soon as it showed up from Racinstation, I plugged it in and rode it for half the season last year without touching it. Eventually I gave it a tweak here and there to suite my liking and have not touched it AT ALL since. The BD boxes, was just the opposite. Eric at Racinstation has the M's dialed and have sent many of my close buds there, they are happy as well.

The RK Tek secondary worked well. I was happy with it. I am not running it this season, I went to the STM Billet 11" secondary, eleven inches is the size our secondaries should be. The sleds are geared way to tall and having a smaller than NORMAL secondary we wonder why the M's have belt, belt alignment and motor mount issues..... I am overjoyed with the STM secondary.

A 60 watt light might be enough draw if your hand warmers were always on.

It might be cheaper to have your stock head cut for compression, would talk to Racinstation or Fastrax.

Again, what do YOU want out of your sled?

 

[4Z]

Cool project!
How does the 53 series work on that 800?

Not an M series sled but pretty close


Elevation:1800-2000 feet(home) 4500-7500(West)

Your weight:165lbs


mods:
Aerocharger 53 Series Turbocharger
D&D 800 Big Bore
D&D Y-Pipe-Speedworks Pipe-2.5" Downpipe
153" Mountain Cat Rails
Attack 20 2.25" Hillclimb
22-41 Gears
8 Tooth Drivers 3" pitch
2:1 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Attitude Industries Control Box
AEM Air Fuel Ratio and Boost Gauge
Digitron EGT Display
06 ECU
ProTaper bars
Acerbis Hand guards
snostuff windscreen
cat tinted headlight covers
titanium a arms
snopro 440 torsion springs
titanium coil over Zero pro shocks in front
Zero pro coil over in rear

Clutching specs:
STM adjustable weights set to 76g
Speedwerx titanium primary spring
cat green secondary spring

Favorite mod(s):
D&D BB800
Digitron EGT

Pics:

 

[ippielb]

Cool project!
How does the 53 series work on that 800?

I actually haven't gotten to ride it yet, when i finished my build i moved to BC, and my water pump shaft seal decided to leak, the moment i was loading my sled on the DAY i was leaving. So when i moved i never had the chance to fix it. But I've contacted aerocharger and they say it is safe to run 6psi or 7si on an 800cc, any more then that and you would be over boosting and risking damaging the turbo.

 

[cumminshp]

You will have to decide what you want out of a sled. Light weight, power, handling, reliability, no tuning, minimal maintenance etc.... no matter what anyone says, you cannot have it all.

I like the twins over a single because they make more power. The wrap helps keep a little heat in the pipe so the lower rpm's will retain some snap and consistency.

I like the PC5 over the BD box because as soon as it showed up from Racinstation, I plugged it in and rode it for half the season last year without touching it. Eventually I gave it a tweak here and there to suite my liking and have not touched it AT ALL since. The BD boxes, was just the opposite. Eric at Racinstation has the M's dialed and have sent many of my close buds there, they are happy as well.

The RK Tek secondary worked well. I was happy with it. I am not running it this season, I went to the STM Billet 11" secondary, eleven inches is the size our secondaries should be. The sleds are geared way to tall and having a smaller than NORMAL secondary we wonder why the M's have belt, belt alignment and motor mount issues..... I am overjoyed with the STM secondary.

A 60 watt light might be enough draw if your hand warmers were always on.

It might be cheaper to have your stock head cut for compression, would talk to Racinstation or Fastrax.

Again, what do YOU want out of your sled?

Ok would a 100wat light be enough ? Also i want some light weight to my sled anything i could do for free other then porting my track and taking out the headlights or stuff thats relativity cheap cause id rather spend my money on performance. If i cut my stock head for compression if a had a box on would i still be able to tune it for say 3000ft and then also for 50000-7000 ? Also im looking for reliability and power like im fine with some tunning but dont always want to be f**king around. So what would you suggest to do for lightening the sled up and performance if i had a $1000 budget considering i already port the track take out the headlights and maybe put a 100 watt ?light on then do some more venting and a oil delete if i had a $1000 to spend what would you recommend ?

 

[tdbaugha]

Ok would a 100wat light be enough ? Also i want some light weight to my sled anything i could do for free other then porting my track and taking out the headlights or stuff thats relativity cheap cause id rather spend my money on performance. If i cut my stock head for compression if a had a box on would i still be able to tune it for say 3000ft and then also for 50000-7000 ? Also im looking for reliability and power like im fine with some tunning but dont always want to be f**king around. So what would you suggest to do for lightening the sled up and performance if i had a $1000 budget considering i already port the track take out the headlights and maybe put a 100 watt ?light on then do some more venting and a oil delete if i had a $1000 to spend what would you recommend ?

If you only have $1000 to spend, I would just ride the thing like you stole it and then upgrade/replace whatever part you break. Unless you go all out and build an M7 like 4Z did, a set of pipes or head or lightweight stuff will not get you much farther than the machine is stock.

I have been watching your posts and you claim you need to run a 65g weight just to pull full RPM at roughly 4000ft. Something is wrong. I am pulling full RPM with soft springs and 73g weights at 1000ft. I just replaced both clutches which made a nice difference in performance. Maybe you have worn clutches or bad motor mounts. Look into that and replace whatever you need. You can buy all the performance parts you want but if your sled isn't in good working order then it won't make a bit of difference. Have you done a compression check? Maybe a fresh top end is what you need if it's low.

I haven't touched my motor yet and it has 3200 miles. The best modifications that I have done have been the bumper update, getting clutching spot on, shock revalving, and straightening the A20 in the hillclimb mode. Now I just ride the pizz out of it and it can almost do everything the new Pro RMK does.

Again, maintenance items can go a loooong way as far as performance. Get that thing in great running order and you will be pleased.

 

[4Z]

If you only have $1000 to spend, I would just ride the thing like you stole it and then upgrade/replace whatever part you break. Unless you go all out and build an M7 like 4Z did, a set of pipes or head or lightweight stuff will not get you much farther than the machine is stock.

I have been watching your posts and you claim you need to run a 65g weight just to pull full RPM at roughly 4000ft. Something is wrong. I am pulling full RPM with soft springs and 73g weights at 1000ft. I just replaced both clutches which made a nice difference in performance. Maybe you have worn clutches or bad motor mounts. Look into that and replace whatever you need. You can buy all the performance parts you want but if your sled isn't in good working order then it won't make a bit of difference. Have you done a compression check? Maybe a fresh top end is what you need if it's low.

I haven't touched my motor yet and it has 3200 miles. The best modifications that I have done have been the bumper update, getting clutching spot on, shock revalving, and straightening the A20 in the hillclimb mode. Now I just ride the pizz out of it and it can almost do everything the new Pro RMK does.

Again, maintenance items can go a loooong way as far as performance. Get that thing in great running order and you will be pleased.

Spot on! Very good advice!!!!
Start by making sure everything is in tip-top shape. Best advice for $1000. Engine performance is the last thing I would recommend.

The resistor from Mouser is only $12 plus shipping. Read this thread about it:
Clicky

 

[Chewy22]

I'll bit- '06 M7 153

Elevation: 6,000 - 10,000

Your weight: Not sure, probably to much - maybe 230lbs fully geared

Box numbers (if any): None

mods:
Clutching (see below);
Holtz skid relocate bracket;
'09 AC seat;
Rox 3.5" riser and hand guards;
VE tunnel updat w/ '09 rails (all powder coated satin black) and flap/lead;
Snow eliminators (not sure the brand already on when I bought the sled, cut down to fit the '09 rails, also powder coated satin black);
Geo mod on skid;
Side panel vents;
RK head;
BDX gears 55/65 and two wheel kit;
Darlin a-arm kit;
Shorty AC windshield;
Mountain Addiction can;
Poo tunnel bag (sorry not really band loyal when it comes to sleds, go with what I like and works best for me; AC just happens to make the sled I'm comfortable on, plus its hard to turn your head away from the reliability of the their motors)

Listed in order of importance to me - probably different for others.

Clutching specs: Honestly still trying to educate myself on this. I have a ton to learn and a long ways to go. But as we sit now, I've done the following -

Primary - 66 AC weights; SLP maroon spring; ABC bolt kit (this really smoothed out my engagement which I really like; stock belt to sheave spacing was off and it clunked bad on engagement - keeping my fingers crossed I don't have problems with the side panel hitting it and tightening - but I carry the tools with me just in case that happens); and clean, clean, clean.

Secondary - Stock 36 helix; AC green compression spring; BDX Rock rollers and belt deflection adjuster, shift assist/bearing, and clean, clean, clean.

Favorite mod(s): '09 Seat and tunnel update. I just did the tunnel and wished it was the first thing i did when I bought the sled. Snow build up on the stock boards is horrible, powder coating helps a ton too.

additional info or tips: Will have more to add on gearing after this weekend, will be first trip out with the new gears. My 7 had the notorious occasional low-end bog so this year i added the RK head and clutching noted above - 2 trips in and so far it seems to have cleaned that up, see how it all works out at the end of the season.

A few things I'm torn on and maybe a post like this will help out:

1. Is updating the rear skid worth it for a sled that will never be turboed? What works the best for floatation, trenching, and getting on top of the snow the quickest, that is all I'm after period!!! - Float conversion, update to an complete '11 skid, K-mod, ect or is the '06 stock skid just fine and I really would not see a significant improvement from the stock setup, with some tweeks, for what i'm after. I'm not unhappy with the stock skid, just curious if there is something better. A smoother ride would be nice but not that important and don't want to drop coin on an update if that is all I'd get.

2. Montana/nothern Wyomning/Idaho snow - what track is all around the best; Powerclaw or the new single ply Camo Extremes. Will need a new track at the end of the season.

3. When it's time for a top-end refresh - BB or not?

 

[cumminshp]

If you only have $1000 to spend, I would just ride the thing like you stole it and then upgrade/replace whatever part you break. Unless you go all out and build an M7 like 4Z did, a set of pipes or head or lightweight stuff will not get you much farther than the machine is stock.

I have been watching your posts and you claim you need to run a 65g weight just to pull full RPM at roughly 4000ft. Something is wrong. I am pulling full RPM with soft springs and 73g weights at 1000ft. I just replaced both clutches which made a nice difference in performance. Maybe you have worn clutches or bad motor mounts. Look into that and replace whatever you need. You can buy all the performance parts you want but if your sled isn't in good working order then it won't make a bit of difference. Have you done a compression check? Maybe a fresh top end is what you need if it's low.

I haven't touched my motor yet and it has 3200 miles. The best modifications that I have done have been the bumper update, getting clutching spot on, shock revalving, and straightening the A20 in the hillclimb mode. Now I just ride the pizz out of it and it can almost do everything the new Pro RMK does.

Again, maintenance items can go a loooong way as far as performance. Get that thing in great running order and you will be pleased.

Ok i said that up high at about 6000ft im getting 7300 to 7700 or maybe a bit more when in the deep and steep and then on/off the trail ive seen as high as 77xx its hard to look down. But i have stock 68g's in. I still have yet to find the time to put my 65gs in other then that i have a stock straight 36 helix green and pink slp primary white ac secondary it was all recomended by slp the only thing i havnt put in is the 65g which im assuming will give me my extra few hundred rpm or so. Went over my clutches there fine and my compression check came out perfect. It has 3k miles but there trail miles and lady driven all she did was go up to a cabin and wait for her husband/ Also as for me keeping up to a pro it would make it further then me and i would have to keep up alot on skill id think

 

[4Z]

Put the 65's in and see what it does.

 

[cumminshp]

Put the 65's in and see what it does.

I plan on it and getting a gauge lift to see my gauge better and putting on my bar riser. Also is there a button that you can "click"before you start riding and if you hit it at the end of the day it will show your max rpm ? If so what button is it ?

Also ya with the 65s im hoping to get over 7800 i preferably want about 8000 if i got around there i would be happy and hope/think i would see some improvment