Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

KTM/Timbersled Brake woes...got a fix?????????

H

honkuscracker

Member
Ok, I've got a 2013 KTM 450 sxf. I've had it set up as a snowbike for two years and I've never had good luck with the brake. I can get it bled although it takes lots of time. :face-icon-small-dis The real problem is that if I lay the bike over or even worse have to flip it/roll it over I loose my brakes. I assume I am getting air in the system but it seems I loose my brakes every ride or two. I fill the reservoir to the MAX and try not to get any air in it but inevitably I am sure I do. Are you running an aftermarket lever/reservoir? Maybe a different year?? Do I take out or modify the rubber gasket in the reservoir? This seems to me to be the worst part of the TS kits, hopefully others may have this figured out. Anyway, let me know if you have any ideas for me. I'll be putting it together next week!
Thanks in advance, Cracker
 
I had that bike too. The back bleed method with the syringe is by far the easiest way to get the system hard as a rock. It won't help with your rotor icing over, but when you pull the brake it will always actuate the caliper.

Search the snowbike forum for the term "back bleed" or "syringe" and I think I posted the exact method for doing it last year. I can't find the post right now on my phone but someone laid it out step by step.
 
Thx

Thanks for getting back to me fellas. Yeah, I remember seeing that Rush. I seem to have the best luck with leaving everything open and pushing fluid from the brake backwards up to the master. It seems to be OK at best. I realize it won't be like my summer set-up. Like I say, it works fine in my garage and for part of the day then just seems to go away. By the end of the ride the lever is all the way to the grip. It isn't ice on the rotor, I am almost for sure it is getting air somehow:juggle:. I'll double check your old post... I thought I remember people talking about master cylinder piston size on the 2013 vs older models/aftermarket or something like that? Ring a bell for anyone?
 
even if air is getting in, means that fluid is leaking out. look for sign of brake fluid throughout a ride maybe a crack in your line or maybe you're copper washers need to be replaced. One time I didn't replace the washer and I had problems, swapped out the washers and good as new! so every time I change over I replace them. you got a leak somewhere...
 
you have a master that needs rebuilding, mine did that on my 13 XC rebuild kit was about 30$
 
After struggling with my KTM for HOURS, I went over to my Honda 450 and it bled on the first try. I went online, bought a Honda master cylinder and it now stays permanently attached to the kit.
 
I have a 2013 KTM 450 XC-F and have had the same issue for the last three years. Nothing I tried would ever get the brake completely hard like it should be - pumping and bleeding, vacuum, or syringe method, nothing worked. I finally took it to Carl's in Boise and they bled it for me - the reult was a hard brake just like from the factory. Best $45 I have spent on a snowbike - well worth the multiple hours of my own time trying to get to work. I also have a Kawasaki 450 KLX that is easy to bleed on my own in about five minutes.
 
Well when I put my kit on I decided to put a new master on so wouldn't have to rebleed when I went back to summer with front tire. so I about wore out the bleeder screw and still couldn't get a brake, went through 2 pints of fluid, one night working on it got pissed jerked the new master off and put old one on off front wheel and had instant brake , so I think you need to address the master perhaps could be whole problem. larry
 
On KTMs even with the wheels on the front brakes on two of ours have gone soft. A patch/fix which I just did this weekend is to clamp the front brake lever on overnight with a bungee cord. By the am the brakes are rock hard and back. Go figure. It might work on the TS as well haven't tried it.

M5
 
On KTMs even with the wheels on the front brakes on two of ours have gone soft. A patch/fix which I just did this weekend is to clamp the front brake lever on overnight with a bungee cord. By the am the brakes are rock hard and back. Go figure. It might work on the TS as well haven't tried it.

M5

Yep I zip tie my lever to the handlebar and by morning everything is hard as a rock. I've also had air leaks from the banjo bolt that connects the brake line to the master... I always use a pair of new crush washers every season and so far no problems.
 
I've been debating buying a whole separate master cylinder to keep on the keep so I don't have to go through the hassle when I install / uninstall my kit.
 
I did buy and set up a separate master cylinder. This way winter or dirt setup is ready to go. No worries about bleeding each time or fluid contamination. :face-icon-small-coo
 
Did you buy an OEM or aftermarket?

I bought the OEM KTM through Rocky Mountain ATV, list is $228.69 they sell them for $182.92. They have them in stock and this style is complete with everything. Lever, dust boot, bolts etc. 3 day shipping no freight! Some of the Yamaha and others are cheaper but are not a complete assembly. Also if you have a map switch on that side check if the mount splits vertically or horizontal (If you buy other than OEM). :face-icon-small-coo
 
Premium Features



Back
Top