KTM 300 XC Fit Kit Issue

[ds2154]

Has anyone had issues with the fit kit for a 2015 KTM 300 XC? The problem I am having is with the spacing for the spindle. If you look at the attached pictures, you can see where the larger diameter of the axle bolt on the right fork sticks through and creates a gap between the Timbersled bushing and the fork. As you can see, the left fork mounts flush.

I used "green" spacers/bushings provided.

Thanks for any input!

 

[andrew44]

Im not sure but I do not think it matters. As long is there is no slop between the bushing on that side and the fat end of the axle your mentioning. The timbersled clamps that go on the fork tubes are going to center up that ski where it should be. I would not think it matters if the axle is showing a little on that side? Just my .02

 

[mrquick68]

pretty sure the 15s are running a smaller front axle than the 14s. might be causing your problem. i believe its 2mm smaller than on a '14.

 

[Revy-rider]

The spindle and axle look the same on my WR when assembled. Looked into it last year when I first set it up and it's supposed to be this way. Go ride!!

 

[kell8071]

Yep, same thing on my Crf front end. Definitely some sloppy measurements.

I'm pretty sure the installation procedure on the spindle is going to cause fork bushing issues over time. The axle on a dirt bike should float until you clamp the lower bolts. This allows the forks to align with each other and not bind. The t/s does not account for that at all and is simply the width of the spindle plus the fork clamps.

Kell

 

[dirtrebel]

Yep, same thing on my Crf front end. Definitely some sloppy measurements.

I'm pretty sure the installation procedure on the spindle is going to cause fork bushing issues over time. The axle on a dirt bike should float until you clamp the lower bolts. This allows the forks to align with each other and not bind. The t/s does not account for that at all and is simply the width of the spindle plus the fork clamps.

Kell

stroke it up and down before you tighten the timbersled fork clamp on the floating side, then shim between the clamp and the spindle ear with a washer or thin shim stock so when u tighten it up it stays where it self aligned. when you tighten the clamp its gonna squeeze and shrink. It is a pain but don't let an obvious issue bind your forks.

 

[kell8071]

Unfortunately it is to tight so when i push the clamps in I think it spreads the forks apart. So I really should machine the clamps down and shim as you suggested.

stroke it up and down before you tighten the clamp on the floating side, then shim between the clamp and the spindle with a washer or thin shim stock so when u tighten it up it stays where it self aligned. when you tighten the clamp its gonna squeeze and shrink. if the axle spacer is then loose on that side you will have to pull the shoulder in tighter or space itaccordingly. It is a pain but don't let an obvious issue bind your forks.

 

[dirtrebel]

Unfortunately it is to tight so when i push the clamps in I think it spreads the forks apart. So I really should machine the clamps down and shim as you suggested.

raise the floating side clamp up above the spindle ear and stroke the forks then slide the clamp down and see if its tight or loose to verify the clearance. unfortunately each front end should be verified independently if you are willing to do so. if not just run with what they supplied and call it good. Sounds like you know what you are doing, just use your judgement.

 

[Jon Mutiger]

You are doing it wrong!! Stop!

The non-brake side is large and is meant to "float" as previously described. You install the axle and that larger diameter portion pushes everything over to the brake side.

Then the floating side is left loose and you should compress the forks as much as physically possible while those 2 nuts are loose. While you have all this bushing overlap, the forks should end up being parallel to each other. Have a buddy help. The axle being flush, proud or sunken is not important at all!!!!

So you should be able to determine where the fork wants to rest on the axle, take a mental note of where that is. On my bike, it's sticking out a bit, on my last KTM it was in a bit.

Tighten the clamp bolts only when the fork is running parallel to the other fork. Using it not paralled will cause massive binding not bushing wear, the deeper into the stroke you go the more friction you'll have. Hit a big hit like that and it will stay down.

Good luck!

And if you don't believe me read the factory bike manual on how to re-assemble your forks/wheel/axle.

 

[chumbilly1]

Unfortunately it is to tight so when i push the clamps in I think it spreads the forks apart. So I really should machine the clamps down and shim as you suggested.

I have seen the same thing on both ktm 300 I have put together. the clamps need to be machined down to allow proper fork alignment. Must be different on some bikes because TS does include washers for the clamps as shims but we obviously have never needed them. Since all ktm big bikes use the same forks and clamps I imagine this is a common problem that most overlook.

 

[mnsnowhawk]

On my ktm 500 it is also very tight getting the clamps in once axle is tightened to not allow binding in forks. But when looking at spindle and the bar that screws in the back you might notice a gap. Once everything gets tightened up it is all good. Every bike can need a bit of adjustment to get a proper fit. The key is to make sure forks aren't binding by pushing forks up and down and then tightening floating side fork clamps down. Then see what adjustments are needed to Timbersled spindle or clamps. Takes some time the first year to make sure it's good.