kmod setup

[skunk75]

Anyone have any suggestions on the setup of the kmod and raptors?

The sled seems to trench really bad and seems to feel like it has a ton of resistance.

This is my first 1100. It has the evo big chute with all the goodies. I came off a PC8.

The sled pulls hard but acts like it has an anchor on the back.

 

[kanedog]

Go to Kmod website and then go to the setup instructions. That will give you proper spring measurements to start with. Also watch kmod video and also timber sleds video about how a coupled suspension works. This will give you a basic understanding and knowledge about where you can improve and adjust your suspension different type of conditions.
Especially after xmas you may have to adjust for extra weight!

 

[skunk75]

I am up the mountain and don't have very good service to watch the video.

Can anyone give me a ballpark idea of how much compression (threads showing below the adjustment ring) for the front and rear raptor shocks?

What hole should the limiter strap be in? Currently it is all the way out.

The sled has a 300hp tune from evo and all their goodies and rides like a dam tank.

With the coupler in position 1. The sled won't even lift the skis on the trail. My understanding is position 1 is for boondocking.

I'm trying to get the sled to be nimble in the trees. My son's stock 1100 is way easier to boondock with.

Thanks for any help.

 

[skunk75]

 

[0neoldfart]

Coupling block numbers

The coupling block numbers should face the rear arm, 1 being the least amount of coupling. Front shocks should be mounted outboard towards the spindle, your ride height in the front is too high. (I ran into interference with EXIT's on mine, ended up using Fox Float EVOL R's. Try adding a couple turns to the front track shock, this will help the heavy front end, too. I ended up going to a heavier front track shock spring (9" x 224#/inch), with 1" preload, front arm in 2013 lower position - works for me.
P.S. - ditch the C&A's and run Polaris Grippers, the C&A's are too aggressive for the 1100T IMHO.

 

[skunk75]

Thank you!!!

 

[skunk75]

So would the bottom of the number 2 be next to the black arm in the first picture or the top of the number 2?

 

[mikew5945]

The number against he backarm is the coupling number. Put it on 3 or 4. I ride mine on 4 most all the time.

 

[skunk75]

Where do you run the limiter strap? Currently it is on the loosest hole?

 

[0neoldfart]

Hard to tell from photo

Coupling the skid will result in a heavier feel. So if #1 is facing the contact point of the rear scissor, your steering will be less coupled and you'll have more ski lift. As the numbers increase, you will have increased coupling (and less ski lift). Don't be scared to add front track shock spring preload, it really changes how the sled feels. I weigh in at about 250# fully geared up, which is why I had a custom spring built with a heavier rate (was worried about coil bind when preloaded excessively). As mentioned before, ride height is critical on the heavy 4 stroke, but once dialed in it rides very similar to the 800's. Play with it, make one change at a time (starting with mounting the shocks outboard), and you'll find the sweet spot.