I am looking at trying to get a little bit more weight transfer on my king cat. I have heard to tighten up the front limiter strap 1 hole. Any help would be great. thanks
King Cat Weight Transfer
- Thread starter Interfaith
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If you want more weight transfer - loosen the limiter strap and increase center shock preload. Moving the top of the rear arm forward and up will increase weight transfer. Dropping the front arm down in the tunnel will also increase weight transfer - I would start with the limiter strap and preload adjustments before drilling holes.
If you want more weight transfer - loosen the limiter strap and increase center shock preload. Moving the top of the rear arm forward and up will increase weight transfer. Dropping the front arm down in the tunnel will also increase weight transfer - I would start with the limiter strap and preload adjustments before drilling holes.
I don't have to reply because OOF said everything you need to know. But you know.....adding to post counts means everything right
Good advice right there. Loosen your limiters before you go drilling holes that aren't needed.
Thanks for the input. Just to make sure since i didnt say that is for more weight to transfer to the rear of the sled correct?
Re: weight transfer
When one desires more weight transfer, you are placing more weight on the rear of the sled on acceleration, which allows the track to hook up. Too much and you will wheelie and trench when climbing, Not enough weight transfer will result in heavy steering and a tendency to plow through snow, rather then get on top of it. Your track pattern and compound (durometer) may be causing some of you issues if you are trenching, as well. Angle of attack from the drivers to the ground can be changed with a drop & roll, set back of rear skid, or by repositioning the rear arm upper mount. Generally, drop brackets will help on a sled that transfers too much (98 Summit X670, for example). The fix on that toboggan was to drop & roll the rear skid, reduce front arm shock preload, and drop brackets helped as well. Most of the newer mountain sleds have weight transfer figured out - it's likely in your suspension setup. Change only one thing at a time and make notes of where you started from, or you'll have a headache very quickly. Hope this helps you out.
When one desires more weight transfer, you are placing more weight on the rear of the sled on acceleration, which allows the track to hook up. Too much and you will wheelie and trench when climbing, Not enough weight transfer will result in heavy steering and a tendency to plow through snow, rather then get on top of it. Your track pattern and compound (durometer) may be causing some of you issues if you are trenching, as well. Angle of attack from the drivers to the ground can be changed with a drop & roll, set back of rear skid, or by repositioning the rear arm upper mount. Generally, drop brackets will help on a sled that transfers too much (98 Summit X670, for example). The fix on that toboggan was to drop & roll the rear skid, reduce front arm shock preload, and drop brackets helped as well. Most of the newer mountain sleds have weight transfer figured out - it's likely in your suspension setup. Change only one thing at a time and make notes of where you started from, or you'll have a headache very quickly. Hope this helps you out.
The front half of the susp. is for transfer, the back half is for ride. Had an old sled and broke a limiter. damn thing almost came over backwards or felt like it. Don't let it out to far! Little wheels on the tips of the rails (anti stab kit).
The Sledjunky drop bracket postions the rear crosshaft back a little more allowing for quicker coupling. The MC/1M sleds dont have the best geometry from the factory. Ive installed about a dozen of em and they work well!
riding buddy dropped a set of sledjunkie brackets on his KK and he loves the way it handles now, seems to climb a little better and is way better for throwing around and more technical riding.
I could be wrong but every sled I have ridden with drop brackets has LESS weight transfer. Thats why I dont run them. I had a set on one of my selds, rode 3 times before selling them. ride with a guy that hs them, i I dont like the way his sled handles at all. Just my .02 but I dont like drop brackets if you are looking for weight transfer.
SJ drop brackets???
The reason is most drop brackets are just that, a lower or longer "drop" off the tunnel to get more clearance in the tunnel, or maintain correct ride height of a longer center to center of skid mounting points, more aggressive angle on tunnel, or just a longer tunnel in general.
The SJ drop brackets dont put the sled any higher, they are the same length, the point of them is to rotate the top cross shaft back a little to help it "break over" easier since the geometry of the MC/1M skids could be better than factory, to far forward, or to close of centers makes for a more rigid ride and doesnt let the skid work like it was designed to.
heres a pic. It only looks longer because you dont run the stock wheels on the top shaft, but notice how it relocates the shaft back a little bit, helping to couple the skid quicker and easier allowing for the rear section of the suspension to work.
http://sledjunkys.com/pages/dropbracketsonsled.htm
Out of all the sleds Ive put these on I have zero complaints! Makes the sled ride, handle and transfer better!
http://sledjunkys.com/pages/dropbracketsonsled.htm
Out of all the sleds Ive put these on I have zero complaints! Makes the sled ride, handle and transfer better!
D
diggerdown
Well-known member
Like the others have said, the king had too much transfer, could'nt keep the front on the ground enough. Hit the throttle and break the back bumper! You must have your limiter sucked up all the way or your shocks are in desperate need of rebuilding.
